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Author Topic: RickK's 170 rebuild  (Read 71919 times)

December 09, 2013, 08:52:27 PM
Reply #465

RickK

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #465 on: December 09, 2013, 08:52:27 PM »
Quote from: "CLM65"
Sweet, Rick!  Foam...a major milestone!  You are going to have one solid boat there.  The hole in the right stringer in that last picture gives a good shot of the thickness of your stringers :thumleft:
Thanks Craig - I measured (too late) and found that the stringer heights were 3/8" different measured from the top of the hull so I added that much to the starboard stringer to make sure both stringers were the same height - not sure how that happened but it did.  Lots of glass to correct it. (Hope the boat doesn't list to that side  :wink:  )
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 09, 2013, 08:58:47 PM
Reply #466

RickK

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #466 on: December 09, 2013, 08:58:47 PM »
Quote from: "LilRichard"
Rick, just spent half an hour catching up... looks great!
Thanks Rich.
Hows the FB doing?
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 09, 2013, 10:33:44 PM
Reply #467

fishinonthebrain

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #467 on: December 09, 2013, 10:33:44 PM »
Quote from: "RickK"
Does oil-less means it spits oil or not?

Means the pump does not run in a oil bath. You won't have the oil fog problem then.
1987 222CCP current rebuild.




December 09, 2013, 11:36:13 PM
Reply #468

gran398

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #468 on: December 09, 2013, 11:36:13 PM »
Rick...everything looks perfect. Even with the new pics...my eye keeps going to the tank coffin.  Wow. Pascoe would be proud.

A constructive consideration...the bow PVC run below the casting deck rattling/making noise. If you feel the clearance is tight, maybe a slice of neoprene above the PVC tube.  An incurable rattle at idle would suck. Mention this because a famous brand of pop-up cleat is known to chatter at idle.

Beautiful work....looking forward to the foam :thumright:

December 09, 2013, 11:58:33 PM
Reply #469

kaptainkoz

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #469 on: December 09, 2013, 11:58:33 PM »
Hey Rick,
Sorry if I missed it somewhere, I'm curious as to why you reduced the size of the rigging tubes instead of using either diameter the whole way?
1979 246 CCP project boat forever in development, Chesapeake Bay Virginia
Steven Koz<a href=\"mailto:Captainkoz@aol.com\"
[img]http://i457.photobuc

December 10, 2013, 05:57:53 AM
Reply #470

Callyb

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #470 on: December 10, 2013, 05:57:53 AM »
Quote from: RickK
Quote from: fishinonthebrain
Looks really good Rick. All that time thinking everything through is really showing at this point. <!-- s:cheers: -->:cheers:<!-- s:cheers: -->

Is your pump oil less?
Thanks man.
As for the pump I think it is but not sure yet.

Specs from the site...

Quote
Specifications

Gast Model: 72R645-V160-D303X
Design: Oil-less Double Piston
Power Requirement: 120v AC Operation
Start-Up Amps: 12.5 (but does not require a relay)
Run Amps: 5.3
Exhaust Muffler: Included
Maximum Vacuum: 28" Hg
Maximum Bag Pressure: 1960 lbs/sqr ft
Air Evacuation: 5.5 CFM (at 0 pressure)
Port size: 1/4 NPT
Blower Design: Air-Over-Motor
Power Cord: 6' Attached Cord with Plug
Capacitor: Included
Construction: Permanently Lubricated Ball Bearings
Cylinder: Wetted Aluminum Alloy
Weight: 19 lbs
Sound Rating: 74 dB

I can't wait to see you put that pump to work. Did you decide to go with the correct supplies for vacuum bagging?
Carl
___________________________

1966 22-2 Flatback w/diver door (perpetual rebuild) w/Mercury 150

1997 Osprey 245 w/Twin 150 Evinrudes

December 10, 2013, 06:48:09 AM
Reply #471

RickK

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #471 on: December 10, 2013, 06:48:09 AM »
Quote from: "kaptainkoz"
Hey Rick,
Sorry if I missed it somewhere, I'm curious as to why you reduced the size of the rigging tubes instead of using either diameter the whole way?
The rigging tubes come in above  the tank and the biggest I could go with and have them clear the tank is 2".  My transom is not enclosed so the tubes could not come up and be exposed so I ran them to the corners where I'll build some cabinets to bring everything up and out of. Then I needed to be able to get the shift cables through the tubes and for that I went to 3" and 45s to be able to do that.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 10, 2013, 06:55:38 AM
Reply #472

RickK

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #472 on: December 10, 2013, 06:55:38 AM »
Quote from: Callyb
Specs from the site...

Quote
Specifications

Gast Model: 72R645-V160-D303X
Design: Oil-less Double Piston
Power Requirement: 120v AC Operation
Start-Up Amps: 12.5 (but does not require a relay)
Run Amps: 5.3
Exhaust Muffler: Included
Maximum Vacuum: 28" Hg
Maximum Bag Pressure: 1960 lbs/sqr ft
Air Evacuation: 5.5 CFM (at 0 pressure)
Port size: 1/4 NPT
Blower Design: Air-Over-Motor
Power Cord: 6' Attached Cord with Plug
Capacitor: Included
Construction: Permanently Lubricated Ball Bearings
Cylinder: Wetted Aluminum Alloy
Weight: 19 lbs
Sound Rating: 74 dB
Thanks for posting that.

Quote from: Callyb
I can't wait to see you put that pump to work. Did you decide to go with the correct supplies for vacuum bagging?
I bought some double sided tape from a web vendor - not sure when I'll use it though  <!-- s:? -->:?<!-- s:? --> .  I also bought the heaviest plastic I could find at HD - 6 mil - to get me past the initial bagging.  Even that was very pricey - like $24 for a 10x25.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 10, 2013, 06:57:43 AM
Reply #473

RickK

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #473 on: December 10, 2013, 06:57:43 AM »
Quote from: "gran398"
Rick...everything looks perfect. Even with the new pics...my eye keeps going to the tank coffin.  Wow. Pascoe would be proud.

A constructive consideration...the bow PVC run below the casting deck rattling/making noise. If you feel the clearance is tight, maybe a slice of neoprene above the PVC tube.  An incurable rattle at idle would suck. Mention this because a famous brand of pop-up cleat is known to chatter at idle.

Beautiful work....looking forward to the foam :thumright:
Yup, there'll be neoprene where it can make any noise.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 10, 2013, 06:19:31 PM
Reply #474

RickK

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #474 on: December 10, 2013, 06:19:31 PM »
CircleHook and Josh stopped by yesterday and while they were here we flipped the sole over so I got to look at the ledge I glued in. Got a little ooze out in two places so the fit is little off.  I'll grind that off soon.


Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 10, 2013, 06:32:21 PM
Reply #475

RickK

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #475 on: December 10, 2013, 06:32:21 PM »
The foaming is done.  Lewis called and gave me some tips on taping some tape covered wood blocks down over the holes as I went.  Some worked and some didn't.
I learned after the first pour of 2 qts in the port stringer that I probably cut too many holes.  I poured in the back one and it started  coming out of the 2nd hole.  So I quickly covered that and learned from that.  The 2nd pour on the starboard stringer I taped the 2nd hole shut and poured and it came out great.  :idea:


The 3rd pour I had it all planned out, tape the 4th hole and mix the same amount, well this time it came up and out of the 5th hole  :roll:   So I learned from that one too - stringers were less wide I guess.  
Overall I didn't make too much of a mess.  Didn't use a saw when I was removing the excess and had a little tear out - note to self for the future. This is a pic after cleaning up some of the eruptions.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 10, 2013, 06:34:47 PM
Reply #476

RickK

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #476 on: December 10, 2013, 06:34:47 PM »
Cut some 4"x4" cloth and pre-wet/rolled them with epoxy and laid them over the holes and rolled it out.  Another check mark on the list.


Maybe do some epoxy painting tomorrow.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

December 10, 2013, 08:36:14 PM
Reply #477

CLM65

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #477 on: December 10, 2013, 08:36:14 PM »
Congrats on the foam completion, Rick :cheers: !  Looks great!  So let me get this straight...You mixed 2 quarts at a time (one quart of each part), and that was enough to fill at least a few feet of stringer?  I'm hoping to foam mine this weekend, so I really appreciate the info!
Craig

2002 205 Osprey, 200 HP Yamaha OX66


1967 22-2 Flatback (Rebuild in progress)

December 11, 2013, 06:02:40 AM
Reply #478

Aswaff400

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #478 on: December 11, 2013, 06:02:40 AM »
Quote from: "CLM65"
Congrats on the foam completion, Rick :cheers: !  Looks great!  So let me get this straight...You mixed 2 quarts at a time (one quart of each part), and that was enough to fill at least a few feet of stringer?  I'm hoping to foam mine this weekend, so I really appreciate the info!
I want to say I mixed  a gallon when I poured, and I think 8 gallons total, 4 of part a, 4 of part b, 4 lb foam.
Aaron
1996 200 Osprey SOLD
1968 22-2 Flatback SOLD
1993 210 Explorer SOLD
1991 Fountain 31TE SOLD
1989 Fountain 12-meter SOLD
1992 Talon F-20 SOLD
2021 Fountain 38TE QUAD 400's

December 11, 2013, 06:14:07 AM
Reply #479

RickK

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Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #479 on: December 11, 2013, 06:14:07 AM »
For the size stringers mine are I got 4ft per mix.  As I got to the tank area I was getting 5-6ft.  The bulkheads I tried mixing 1pt of each and it was just shy of enough - then I added more and it was too much :roll: .
If you are going to use the taped board approach use packing tape for the stringer side and then duct tape to hold it down - I tried packing tape to hold it down and it wasn't strong enough, had to stand on the boards (remember I said how the 3rd pour came out the 5th hole - wasn't ready for that).  Make sure you work out how to tape them down in advance.  When you get to the last hole be careful, hold the board down to allow it to expand past where you're at and then allow it to escape, stuff is pretty powerful.
I used clear 2 plastic containers each marked A or B (and a Qt line) to measure and then I mixed the stuff together in paper 1 gal buckets - toss the bucket and the stir stick after each mix.  Like Koz said - about 15 -20 seconds of mixing is all the time you get.  You can tell when you've mixed it enough because it'll turn to a creamy coffee color - then crush the bucket into a spout and pour - quickly and cover.  Wait any longer and it'll foam right in the bucket.  You learn all this on the fix mix  :lol:  It takes just a few minutes to expand all the way and you can move to the next pour.
Good luck.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

 


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