RickK's 170 rebuild

[fishinonthebrain]

Rick the console, deck, and hatches look real nice. You mention you were going to gel coat the console didn't you use epoxy on it?

I was wondering how to terminate the open cell plasticore . Now I know.


I have jumped on the vacuum band wagon too and purchased a pump yesterday. Are you going to buy all the bagging supplies from one of the fiberglass suppliers or make due with lesser expensive visqeen?

[Callyb]

I was wondering how to terminate the open cell plasticore . Now I know.  

ZACTLY!!!!!!

Thank you Rick.  

[RickK]

See no reason why it would be disadvantageous in terms of the gel to follow, and for sure much easier sitting on a bench, table, etc.

I will gel the console inside and out before rigging and gel it while it's up on my portable table.  

[Callyb]

Rick, here is what I was thinking.



Sealing the bag to the concrete might work too, I would test it out just for the heck of it if you want too. Remember that the "peel ply" layer should be perforated so that it can squeeze the excess resin out of the laminate. Also, I would recommend a trap for the resin just in case you pull some resin up into the vacuum hose.

One more recommendation would be to try a dry run or two before you do the real thing, just so you can get a feel for it.

Good luck Sir!

[RickK]

Rick the console, deck, and hatches look real nice.

Thanks man - we have a lot of good stuff going on here, learning everywhere we turn.

You mention you were going to gel coat the console didn't you use epoxy on it?

Epoxy below the sole, poly above.

I was wondering how to terminate the open cell plasticore . Now I know.

I didn't know either - what I can't figure out or learn from you guys I contact and get guidance from Chris (dirtwheelsfl) - smart guy.

I have jumped on the vacuum band wagon too and purchased a pump yesterday. Are you going to buy all the bagging supplies from one of the fiberglass suppliers or make due with lesser expensive visqeen?

What did you get?
I'm really not sure what I want to use for supplies.  I use some of Warthog's work as a guide too and he is a vacuum officiano.
Here are a couple pix where he isn't "bagging" but using some 2 faced tape right again the target area and I assume visqueen?




That's the kind of "bagging" I have in mind right away.

[RickK]

Rick, here is what I was thinking.



Sealing the bag to the concrete might work too, I would test it out just for the heck of it if you want too. Remember that the "peel ply" layer should be perforated so that it can squeeze the excess resin out of the laminate. Also, I would recommend a trap for the resin just in case you pull some resin up into the vacuum hose.

One more recommendation would be to try a dry run or two before you do the real thing, just so you can get a feel for it.

Good luck Sir!

That's some good stuff  
What do you use for the "trap"?  Where do you put it?
I guess you could go through a lot of batting in this process.  
Working with poly I see that I will have to step down the MEK % a bit to get the working time I need to finish the bagging before it kicks.

I will do some dry runs sine I have NO clue right now.

[Callyb]

What do you use for the "trap"? Where do you put it?

Honestly, I didn't use one, I didn't even use a gauge! But I don't have a nice setup like what you are getting either... I would just put it inline wherever it is convenient.

I guess you could go through a lot of batting in this process.

Yes, it is a one time use kind of thing. That is why I went with the batting...it is half the price of real breather and works just the same.

Working with poly I see that I will have to step down the MEK % a bit to get the working time I need to finish the bagging before it kicks.

That and you could refrigerate the resin or ice it down before mixing it too.

That's some good stuff  

No problem Rick!

I can PM my number if you want too. don't know how much more help I could, be but I'll try.

[fishinonthebrain]

Rick go to us composites website they have all the bagging supplies. From t here I read the descriptions of the products used and compared them to what everybody like Carl is using. I have not decided if I am going to use their stuff or not. The problem I see is after spending all the time and materials on the mold,fiberglass, gel coat, and resin why not spend a few more bucks and use the approved bagging supplies. Then I would know I had the best chance of a good looking quality part with as little sanding and fairing as possible. I have had plenty of practice at that.

I went in the direction of Carl and purchased a oil vacuum used in ac work. It is a Robinare 8-cfm double stage pump for $225.00 off of amazon.

[fishinonthebrain]

Rick the console, deck, and hatches look real nice.

Thanks man - we have a lot of good stuff going on here, learning everywhere we turn.

You mention you were going to gel coat the console didn't you use epoxy on it?

Epoxy below the sole, poly above.

I was wondering how to terminate the open cell plasticore . Now I know.

I didn't know either - what I can't figure out or learn from you guys I contact and get guidance from Chris (dirtwheelsfl) - smart guy.

I have jumped on the vacuum band wagon too and purchased a pump yesterday. Are you going to buy all the bagging supplies from one of the fiberglass suppliers or make due with lesser expensive visqeen?

What did you get?
I'm really not sure what I want to use for supplies.  I use some of Warthog's work as a guide too and he is a vacuum officiano.
Here are a couple pix where he isn't "bagging" but using some 2 faced tape right again the target area and I assume visqueen?




That's the kind of "bagging" I have in mind right away.

Warthog is on CM?

[Callyb]

Fish, I have no doubt that you 100% correct that you will get a better finish with the actual products. A little bit of forethought on my part and I would have at least ordered the peel ply with my last order, that is the biggest piece of the puzzle for a quality finish. However, since I didn't order any with my last big order, the shipping makes is very cost prohibitive and effectively doubles the price.

I am yet to find a responsibly local source for glassing supplies.

I guess that is part of the punishment for living in the great white north.  

For those of us the live in parts of the country, for what it is worth, I would at least buy actual peel ply. It is extremely flexible and much less likely to wrinkle. My feeling will not be hurt by you guys using the real deal instead of my "ghetto bagging" method.  

Also, I saw that fibreglast sells stretchlon, which is a very good product. I have seen it used at work, and it seems to be much more forgiving that a traditional bag material.

[futch13]

Rick, here is what I was thinking.



Sealing the bag to the concrete might work too, I would test it out just for the heck of it if you want too. Remember that the "peel ply" layer should be perforated so that it can squeeze the excess resin out of the laminate. Also, I would recommend a trap for the resin just in case you pull some resin up into the vacuum hose.

One more recommendation would be to try a dry run or two before you do the real thing, just so you can get a feel for it.

Good luck Sir!

Great drawing, just one question, isn't the manifold supposed to be on top of the peel ply and batting?  I am just asking cause it would seem the manifold would suck up the resin before it hit the batting.  I am learning from ya'll so forgive my ignorance.  Wrenches are one thing, gooy, sticky, itchy stuff is a whole nother

[Callyb]

Oh man! <!-- s:shock: --><!-- s:shock: -->  Good catch. <!-- s:salut: --><!-- s:salut: -->

I guess I shouldn't post before I wake up all of the way. <!-- s:oops: --><!-- s:oops: -->

Yes, the manifold goes on top of the breather layer.

[RickK]

Warthog is on CM?

Yup, and he's a member here but hasn't been around in a while.

[Capt. Bob]

Warthog is on CM?

Yup, and he's a member here but hasn't been around in a while.

Yep, little over 5 years since he checked in. :|

[RickK]

I added more CSM to the edges of the receivers where needed and then made a jig to apply some thickened resin along all the edges to get the right radius.  Took 2 applications and the edges and gaps seem to be what I need now  

My buddy Ed and I hoisted the console onto the sole and lined up where the faint lines showed the outline and I realized that the lines were the outside of the toekick instead of what I said earlier which makes it even better  


I needed to make sure that my calcs were right and I can get the 3 batteries in under the seat


I will add another layer of Plascore to beef it up under the batteries - good vertical clearance for this.