RickK's 170 rebuild

[dirtwheelsfl]

What if you used pinned hinges that you could take apart? That way you could take the seat totally out of your way if you need to do some work in the console?

Agreed...    Looking good!

[dburr]

X3 on the pinned hinges Rick or a barrel hinge that has easy pins to move.. You are going to all the effort for killer access, ma. The seat completely removable and you will not regret it!!!!

[RickK]

What if you used pinned hinges that you could take apart? That way you could take the seat totally out of your way if you need to do some work in the console?

Got any examples?  I am torn between a piano hinge that can be hidden and 2 hinges in plain view.  I think the piano hinge would be more stable than 2 small hinges but if I could remove the whole seat that would be better.  If you think about it, how often are you going to be going into the console after the initial install and the install of all the goodies?
Actually with that train of thought, I am going to have 2 locking "strap locks" - one on each side - I could do 2 more in the front and maybe 2 on the sides of the seat bottom.

[Callyb]

Not exactly the most stylish ones, but I think this is the basic idea...

Here's the link:
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Sea-Dog-Removable-Pin-Butt-Hinge-2&i=82749&r=view&aID=601J1&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googlebase&s_kwcid=googlepla&cvsfa=2587&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=3832373439

I think this hinge idea is an excellent one It will definitely make easy access without the seat at all.

Thank you.

[h20ryder]

Some of the "Take Apart" hinges might work well as long as you have the clearance to slide to one side to disengage the hinge pin:
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?pa ... id=2331120
http://www.marinepartdepot.com/ststpuhi.html

[fishinonthebrain]

I was thinking if you hinged it up you could even mount something like a amp or other electrical items to the back of the door. So when you hinged it up you would have real access to those items.

[RickK]

I may have problems making the seat hinge up because of the windshield frame that fits around the console.
For locking latches I was thinking of something like this

[dirtwheelsfl]

Ive always had good luck with these.     No sharp metal to cut you and they've got a pretty low profile.

http://greatlakesskipper.com/media/cata ... 9-1-lg.jpg

[slvrlng]

I used one of these on my anchor locker when I re-cored it. After numerous soakings with salt spray still looks nice. It folds really flat so not much sticking up to catch things.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#1406a46/=orghjo

[Capt. Bob]

While all great ideas, still too modern for such a classic.

Go retro with a classic clasp that has stood the test of time.


To "pimp it up", go stainless but it may be harder to bend.

Good luck.

[RickK]

Finally got freed up from work and got back at the project.
Cleaned up the seat, trimmed it down to 1.5" lip around most of the seat and ground it to a nice finish.   The seat was built out of poly and I figured I needed to add something for the backer to "bite" onto so I added a layer of 3/4 oz.


After that kicked I ground it lightly and mixed up a putty of epoxy and troweled it on

[RickK]

and set the backer into the putty


Then I filled in the honeycomb

[RickK]

And then put some blocks on it for the night.

[RickK]

Sunday I repeated the process on the backrest (note to self - put some plastic under the block so they don't stick to the backer    )

[RickK]

While that was doing it's thing I brought out the windshield and tried it on the new console to make sure I didn't build it up too much.  Fits fine




I pried the blocks off the backer tonight (all 3 were glued to it tight) and picked it up and I tell you, the seat picked up at least 10+ lbs and is rock solid.  It had a little flex in the panels before the backers, now, no flex at all.  I could probably stand on the seat.
Next thing to do is lay a layer of cloth over the backer and up the lip and that will make it rock solid.
I test fit it (just in case) and it fits perfect.