RickK's 170 rebuild

[RickK]

Thanks Koz, one day at a time and one idea at a time. Like you and your rebuild, I'm trying to make the original design more usable, solid and more 21st century.  Hope to get a lot done this long weekend.

[RickK]

Here is a link to a guy that built his entire boat out of plascore - good info on joints and fillers.  http://mountaindogs.net/plascorehull

http://mountaindogs.net/plascoredrifter

[Capt. Bob]

Interesting read.
The interlocking joints, is that how you plan on splicing the deck pieces?

So I understand,
The reason for using this material is for reduced weight and anti rot properties. Since it cannot support fasteners to the level needed under most conditions, it needs to be re-enforced in those areas. In the link, re-enforcement is with wood. Playing the Devil's advocate here, isn't that counterproductive to the anti rot desirability? I believe rot isn't as rampant in the north as it is down here so that may not be a factor.

Going on past experiences of members on this forum and my own, deck rot is started with a poor seal between the deck and fastener entry. Sealing the fastener is not technically challenging but does require a degree of skill and persistence on the installer's part.
That stated, are you using a different material/technique for fasteners?

Thanks.

[saltfly]

When I worked, we tested that material. To see how well a bond joint, between it and aluminum. Would hold up under thermal cycling. It worked well. Not for space use, because of the great temp differential. But in a normal atmosphere environment, it was fine. So if using plascore bond aluminum instead of wood, under areas you intend to screw to.

[RickK]

I visit one site where they dovetail the boards together - don't think I will do any dovetailing to join my panels as I don't think I'll gain anything in strength since the floor is not being stressed like the outside of a hull but the square notching looks like the way to go.  Putty them together at the seam to "weld" them together and then glass the whole board.
As for reinforcing the mounting points, I have been consulting with my mentor and he tossed out the idea of glassing one side and then routing out the other where I need to screw down say, the console.  Then either use some form of expanded foam panels like Celtec or just build up some layers of cloth and fill the routings with those and then glue/glass them in. Celtec in 3/4" is not too badly priced but shipping is as expensive as the panel itself so it's not worth it unless I can find it relatively local.

[Capt Matt]

You thought about glassing the console in?
Glass the inside of the console right to the deCk, no screw required and a nice clean looking install
Capt Matt

[kaptainkoz]

I wonder if "edge banding" router bits would work on core as well? These are the bits I am going to use on my 1/2 fir plywood to join the seams.


http://www.shopping.com/Amana-Amana-Too ... /info?sb=1

Basically they are large 45 degree angle bits. Its similar to tongue and groove except is isnt as delicate and I think It will hold a bead of "peanut butter" resin mix much better. Seems to me like it could work on the plastic. That large "castle" cut would be great laterally but its not going to do much vertically other than rely on the glass over it to hold it down. The edgeband bit seems to be the way to butt the floors together forever. Just my 2 cents and a hypothetical suggestion as I have not used them yet myself but intend to.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Wouldnt worry about the joint too much, butt em together, the glass does all the work...

[RickK]

Wouldnt worry about the joint too much, butt em together, the glass does all the work...

I agree that the square joint in my application is overkill and I'm not sure, Koz, how the plastic honey comb would react to an aggressive bit set like those.
I thought about just gluing them together with some putty to stabilize them and glass them during the same process.

[RickK]

You thought about glassing the console in?
Glass the inside of the console right to the deCk, no screw required and a nice clean looking install
Capt Matt

I have been toying around in my brain with somehow making a toe kick around the bottom and then glassing it down. Then I won't have to reinforce at all.
This will require some rework this weekend. Decisions, decisions.  The console has to have a stout connection because it is the only place too hang on in the boat.

[CLM65]

I'm planning to just but my nidacore pieces together and glass both sides, but I'm also going to put a bulkhead at each joint location for a little extra support for the joints.

[gran398]

You thought about glassing the console in?
Glass the inside of the console right to the deCk, no screw required and a nice clean looking install
Capt Matt

I have been toying around in my brain with somehow making a toe kick around the bottom and then glassing it down. Then I won't have to reinforce at all.
This will require some rework this weekend. Decisions, decisions.  The console has to have a stout connection because it is the only place too hang on in the boat.

There is a toe kick on my Onslow Bay console. The console basically sits on top of a smaller, cored rectangle.

So you would need to put a floor in your console.

An additional benefit besides the recess is the interior of the console stays bone dry.

[Capt Matt]

I built my console with room to fit my toes under it, glassing it down is crazy strong and no screw to ever rust or vibrate loose
Think about glassing pads inside the console to mount fuse holders, breakers, power pole pump etc, gives it a clean look if you don't have to thru bolt
Capt Matt

[RickK]

I think I have figured out how to do the toe kick around the base and then to glass it down - like kitchen cabinets  
The entire console is lined with 3/4" marine ply so mounting stuff is not an issue - no thru-bolting required for the pumps, etc.  Steering, throttle, that kind of stuff, yes.

[gran398]

Exactly.  Like kitchen cabinets... except you'll need the  toe kick all four sides

Matt's recommendation on glassing it in makes great sense. The only downside is removing the console at a later date to service the tank...that will be a tough disassembly  with no screws.

All the more reason to insure the tank installation is perfect. Don't forget the weep holes in the coffin draining to the bilge.