RickK's 170 rebuild

[slvrlng]

My question is did the clamps and glass take the bow out of the skin?

One thing about the glass rolls being outside(and I understand you are about to use most of it up) 1708 can and will absorb humidity out of the air. Yes it takes a while but keep this in mind. I had 10 yards in my basement for a couple of months and poly would not stick to it, epoxy would.

[slvrlng]

Awesome progress!!!!

[dirtwheelsfl]

There ya go

[RickK]

Looking good Rick!

Hey nobody's asked...what do the neighbors think about your little project?

They're ok with it. Probably not thrilled with the blue tarp but most of the thing is hidden by the big boat. :geek:

[RickK]

My question is did the clamps and glass take the bow out of the skin?

Last night (6 hours after clamping them) I took the clamps off long enough to pull the big sheet of melamine off and reclamped with the 3/4" plywood only on the outside - still double layers of wood on the inside. This way we could slide the boat back up on the trailer and get it under the tarp since they were predicting rain from the front coming through. Not a drop in the boat this morning.
Anyway, seems the bow was still there though when I checked it for that exact reason, in the brief time the clamps were off - remember that there is still no coring in there so maybe that's normal? I wouldn't think so though.

One thing about the glass rolls being outside(and I understand you are about to use most of it up) 1708 can and will absorb humidity out of the air. Yes it takes a while but keep this in mind. I had 10 yards in my basement for a couple of months and poly would not stick to it, epoxy would.

I pulled it in to the garage last night.  Good to know though.

[RickK]

I started grinding all the ooze off the transom and scruffing up the inside for when it gets warmer. I also ground down and dry fit the transom core - seems I still have a 3/8" inward bow to the transom.  I guess it is what it is - didn't lay a straight edge on the transom before I started (note to self).  Not sure I can do anything about it nor if it will affect anything.  I won't tell if you won't. It'll be solid though.


The core lam'd nice it seems


The fit is nice after some belt sanding and cutting.




I cut the top of the core at a good angle to allow the liner to fit back on - Port side




Starboard side




Will be a couple days of non glassing until it warms up - plenty to do though on this project.
Guess I could pull the console out and start cutting it up.

[Aswaff400]

Looking good Rick!

Hey nobody's asked...what do the neighbors think about your little project?

They're ok with it. Probably not thrilled with the blue tarp but most of the thing is hidden by the big boat. :geek:

my neighbors dont mind my project since im usually glassing or grinding while they are at work...

looks good rick  

[RickK]

I went to Marine Surplus in Bradenton and bought a belly tank.




Pretty old but has had nothing in it but air


Price was decent


Sits pretty well in the hull and that is right under where the console will be - back edge is where the console back edge is.  I think I will need to jack the front up a bit though.  This boat has never had a belly tank in her - always above deck.


Also you can see the "fill" in the prow of the boat (lower that the rest of the boat and can hold water - same as what you saw Eugene doing on the Hefner rebuild).  Made it out of Jasper board.  Will lam each side with 3/4 or 1.5 oz.  Nothing will be touching it or other than maybe a little hull twist support, will be supported by it, just to fill the void - and I will fill below it with foam.  I will also fill in the strakes to get a flat surface.
Now it's on to stringer design.
C'mon warm weather.

[gran398]

Excellent.

27 gallons...81 bucks. That's a deal. 81 bucks is a bad dinner somewhere.

New poly tank full of air...regardless of the date of manufacture....the only thing that deteriorates poly is UV.  Willing to bet the pic in your boat is the first time that tank has seen daylight.

Good job on the forward plug. You've done your homework..and taken the best ideas from several rebuilds.

[seabob4]

Nice tank Rick!  We used Inca at PL, excellent tanks.  That one will outlive the boat AND you!  

Do me a favor next time you're at Marine Surplus.  Check on float switches, let me know what they want for them.  Rule, Sure-bail, Johnson, Attwood, whatever they have.  I'd appreciate it...

[jdupree]

Nice work Rick   Now you will be considered a master re-builder per the site ranks.   How will your user name be both red & gold  

[CLM65]

Looking good, Rick!  I was wondering why nobody seems to use poly tanks in their rebuilds.  It seems like a very economical alternative to aluminum.  Nice find!

[RickK]

Nice work Rick   Now you will be considered a master re-builder per the site ranks.   How will your user name be both red & gold  

Unfortunately you can only have one "rank".

[RickK]

Looking good, Rick!  I was wondering why nobody seems to use poly tanks in their rebuilds.  It seems like a very economical alternative to aluminum.  Nice find!

I agree CL.
I bet they have 5 more of these 27gal tanks there plus a whole lot more, bigger and smaller.

[seabob4]

The biggest obstacle in regards to using poly tanks is that one is limited in size and shape as to what's out there.  The simple way around this is to determine what is the closest that will fit the tank compartment, then build the compartment around the physical shape of the tank.

Builders use Roto-molded tanks basically in boats up to a certain size, and a certain tankage.  More or less a price point thing.  In boats, say, 22' or less, the price of the boat is a HUGE factor as to whether they sell a lot of units or not, as the competition is fierce.  So all aspects of the build have to be looked at in regards to paring costs, and, hence, retail price.  Once you start to get into the bigger boats, price becomes less of a selling point and features start to take over in the consumers mind.  So they switch over to aluminum tanks...

Also keep in mind a certain amount of units of a particular model have to be sold in order to re-coup the cost of the tank manufacturer to build the mold for the tank, which is passed on to the builder.  That cost is usually somewhere between $3-5K.  If the tank manufacturer is only charging $80 a tank to the builder, that builder has to sell a lot of boats to re-coup the mold costs...