RickK's 170 rebuild

[RickK]

I'll give the same answer that our engineering dept at work gives when we ask about a release date.....Soon.


 

[gran398]

I'll give the same answer that our engineering dept at work gives when we ask about a release date.....Soon.


 

Back in 2011...My ride was to have been "soon". And actually figured back then on it being "soon."

At least you're doing the work

This part of the build that you can't see later...to me that's what its all about.

[RickK]

Cut some holes this weekend to route everything.  Only way out of the console is down into the fuel tank coffin because the console will sit on the stringers edge to edge.
So I cut a couple holes in the front of the coffin - left holes are for the fuel fill and vent hoses, the one on the right is to route battery cables, nav lights, etc forward.


The holes in the back are 2" pipe because of the limited room above the tank.  I then will install a 2" to 3" converter and a 45 degree coupler and connect to the 3" pipe going through the stringers. I need room to pull through the engine controls and the 3" 45 does the trick.


Edit: Oops - somehow I pasted the same pic twice.
The 3" on each side will end at the corners on each side where I'll build a little box to route the stuff through.

Almost foam time.

[CLM65]

Coming along nicely, Rick!

[gman 82 aquasport]

What brand motor are you going to run? Only reason I ask is that when I ran my 3 inch tubes with 45's on them, I couldn't get the control cables for my Johnson thru them. Luckily I tried them first before glueing them all together and sealing them under the foam I had to put the tubes togther 1 at a time as I fed the cables thru. got it done but realized after that if I ever have to replace the cables or remove to go with a different brand motor, they will get the ends cut off to pull them out and probably get the new ones ran under the floor.( I left space to do so.)She's looking good Rick...

[RickK]

I tested the Johnson/Evinrude cables through assembled pipe and it seemed to go through fine.  Maybe it's the 2-3" converter that gives it the length it needs to make the transistion? Definitely have to stagger the two control cables and tape them or pull them one at a time.

[RickK]

I retested pulling (actually pushing) the cables through the pipe from the tank area towards the back and they went through no problem, however they didn't want to come back out probably because the adjustment wheels are catching on something. I bet if I broke the edge with some tape they'd come right out.
I glued the 2-3" converter only and dry fit the rest in.  In the front I will heat the pipe going forward and bow it toward the prow a little so I will have the wires (battery and nav) right where I need them.
Also notice I ran the fuel fill and vent through their holes - I have enough length to get anywhere I need to in the front.  I haven't connected them to the tank yet.  I also need to strap the tank down.




I will lam some small strips of glass to tie the pipe into the stringers and fill the voids around the pipes to keep the foam in.

[gman 82 aquasport]

If you haven't glued all the pipe yet, you might want to think about this little tidbit. ..(I learned it a little late)   before you glue the pieces, take a dremmel tool or something like that and camfor the insde lip that will go into the fitting. If you feel the lip when the pieces are togehter but not glued, just grind away enough so it doesn't leave a lip... just found out how much a little lip can make you want to cut  a hole to run new wires :twisted: , I had to replace my engine harness last week(Johnson with the big red ends) and pulled all the wiring out to do so, battery cables and all acc. wires and lights. Pulled new battery cables (size1, up from #4's) all the other wires and 3 new wires for future whatevers, and new harness. Wished then I had taken the lip off as the pull got hung up at every junction, had to work it back and forth a time or 2, even had it all lubed up..had the pulls staggered with harness first because of the big ends then battery cables then wiring...The rewire took 5 hours..and when done the first thing I thought of was why didn't I remove the lip when I put these together

[dburr]

What G said x2!!!

Had the same issue pulling 0/0 and flex copper for power and air from the barn out to the Boatshop in 2 inch PVC.  The 0/0 went out first and the PVC was not chamfered and it was glued..  There was most definitely language used unbefitting a gentalman   .  The PVC for the flex copper had not been glued so the ends were cut down to almost a feather edge and the stops in the middle of the couplings were almost completely removed.  I should have used actual conduit because the bends have a larger radius and softer sweep to them.  But there wasn't any on hand and rain was coming, the trench had to get filled, yada, yada..   .......idiot....

[Blue Agave]

Rick, straps really are not necessary as your tank has no where to go. When you do strap her down be sure and leave a little play to allow for the expansion.  Nice work!

[gman 82 aquasport]

Boat is looking great Rick , you can tell a lot of thought has gone on behind the scenes..have to agree with Blue on the tank, if you don't have much gap on top, may be an easier way to keep it "stationary", I found out after strapping mine in that all I would have had to do is put maybe a piece or 2 of foam pad(the round flotation play stuff) over it in a couple of places and there she would have stayed I only had 3/8 of an inch to 1/2 inch space over the fill neck to the floor.

[RickK]

I have 1 3/4" between the floor and the top of the fill doghouse.  I was going to glass in a piece of jasper board that sits inside the slots I have but 1/2" above the tank top and the "strap" of jasper board will be 2" narrower than the slot to allow for craziness.  I'll do that in both slots.
As for the lips on the ID of the PVC, I will check it out - maybe grind them by default before I glue the 2 pieces together. There is only two places that will have an inner lip on the aft to front trip - going the other way it is a easy pull. Good tip though - thanks guys.

[RickK]

Man is it hot out there
Saturday morning I made some cardboard templates and lam'd the last layer of cloth on the Plascore board.  Stuff is pretty nice and easy to work with and pretty cheap - less than 3/4 marine plywood. After you add in the cost of the cloth and the resin it's still not too bad.
Cardboard templates cut.


Tracing and cutting out of the Plascore


Dry fit, traced the sides onto the hull and then got in and ground where I would be lamming them in and while I was at it I ground the hull sides where the floor will butt up so I don't have to do it later.  Grinding sucks but a flap sanding wheel makes quick work of it.


Then I mixed some thick putty, coated the 3 edges of each bulkhead with enough to ooze out so I could fillet them, stuck them in, ran the fillets and then tabbed them in.  Got done about 130p and almost passed out from the heat - had to come into the house and lay down in front of a fan.  Definitely an early morning job.  Started early but it took 4 hours to cut the bulkheads, cut all the cloth, grind the areas and then vacuum the hull.  By then it was noon. Too hot but had to get done.


Getting there. Still haven't glued the pvc together but it will be soon.  I have one more weekend before I leave for the UK - this trip is 6 weeks long so no progress for a while.

[dburr]

Looking at the PVC to the bow for the lights..

The last thing you want to think about in the heat you have is using steam for anything...  

If you have a steam cleaner you can close off the ends of the PVC with rags and put the steam to her and in about 20 minutes you will be able to tie the whole thing up like a pretzel.  Just be careful to support it every foot or so or it will sag, it can get that soft.   Maybe that’s a fall project?

[fishinonthebrain]

looks really good rick. I cut and fit parts one day early and then install the next morning. It's way too hot in the afternoons.