RickK's 170 rebuild

[slvrlng]

I just now read it!! Thats throwing it right back in their faces! I think your idea will be fine. When you pour have a piece of ply wrapped with plastic to cover the pour holes, as it expands you mash down on it and this gives a nice "sealed edge to the foam and keeps it from going everywhere.

[RickK]

Actually kind of ticked me off that they just now would give me advice on that part of the rebuild - not GW but Joel. I respect his experience and I realize he's busy but I think he got all wrapped up in me using poly and didn't read the post. I have to stay on my plan, I think it will be plenty strong when I'm done.  Might be able to get it glasssed this weekend - have to head out to Huntsville on Sunday, so maybe not.
I also posted on boatdesign.net.  I think there was a couple hundred views and not one reply. I would have figured there would be some brainiacs there - guess not.  I haven't been back there in a few weeks to see if someone replied - doubt it.
Fiberglass is pretty forgiving.

[Capt. Bob]

Fiberglass is pretty forgiving.

Just like concrete and stucco.

 

[Callyb]

Rick, FWIW... I say you are all set. That boat is going to be rock solid how you are doing it, and I don't think that the question was missed or the advice after the fact had any malice in it. To be honest I missed the question in there too... Hell, by the time you glass the flats in around the tank (with the quality you have shown so far) it no one will ever know you did it that way.

Screw it. It's looks awesome! Build on sir, build on!

And when you get done, I'll send you a plane ticket to help me on mine... :flower:

[RickK]

So I got back at it this weekend. Started by cutting the fillers down.






Cut, ground and dry fit


Dry cut the lam which was to be fillet, 3/4oz tab, 1.5oz tab and then a full cover of 1808 - took a couple hours to cut it all up.


Then we took the plunge and put it together - tried a resin board this time which worked super.




Next weekend I'll grind the putty that oozed to the front and get the front/inside ready for a layer of glass. There are some tough curves to get the glass to traverse on the inside though.




Hopefully it'll be strong enough when I'm done.

[saltfly]

Rick I like the way you are doing your rebuild. Keeping the original stringer foot print. That keeps the structural design on the hull the same as the designers intended. I’ve often wondered what is going to happen to the hull bottom, when that foot print is changed. The numbers have to  change.

[RickK]

I am going from 3 stringers to 2 though.

[dburr]

Mighty FINE Rick!!  It would be slick to be able to vacuum bag the glass to the edges of the tank well, that way you'd be able to get a good clean bond on a tight radius.. I see duct tape and release film, if you had old compressor handy to convert to a pump and you'd be in business!  If I remember correctly Dirt used an old refrigerator compressor...

[saltfly]

That shouldn’t make any difference. it’s the width and spacing of the stinger, spreading out the load. If you look at most of the 19-6’s and 222 v hulls. They  only had 2 stringers. Their were three in the flat backs, because of having that flat hull bottom. Once they went to the v bottom they went to 2. Why they put 3 in the 170 is a mystery to me. I personally don’t think it was needed. But for some reason they put it in. The numbers on the 19-6 v and the 170 should be very close. The hulls flex should be almost the same. I do know a number of people up this away, used the 170’s to run off shore. AS was told that by their dealers, in this region. So maybe they didn’t want to take a chance of a hull spitting.  I know you may not know how far this is, but a friend went out of the Ocean City Md. Inlet one time, heading south. Once the wind came up out of the north, it got so rough, he got half way to gull shoals, which is about 6 miles. He thought he wouldn’t be able to turn around, with out rolling the boat. So He kept going south another 40 miles and went in to the Chincoteague Va. inlet. Then came back up the inland water way after filling up with gas. He told me the waves got so big, it scared the bajesus out of him. So him being a guide and a very experienced waterman. That’s saying something. He also told me, the boat staying together didn’t even cross his mined. That’s why he bought the 17 AS. That’s another reason, you still see so many in the mid Atlantic. I see some as far off shore as I go in my 222ccp, which is 30 miles out.

[RickK]

The early models were in the "learning mode" and had up to 5 stringers as they learned what was really needed - look at CLM65's FB rebuild - 5 stringers, OldSkool67's '67 - 5 stringers. Mine was 3.
The center stringer I ommitted was running from the prow all the way back to the hull and I had an above floor tank, so the center also helped support that.  All different now.

[Capt. Bob]

Stringers everywhere.

 Circa 1968 girder style



Circa 74



Drop in style circa 78



04 style

[Aswaff400]

my '68 also had 5 stringers, and didn't the flatties also have the above deck fuel tank?

[seabob4]

I just now read it!! Thats throwing it right back in their faces! I think your idea will be fine. When you pour have a piece of ply wrapped with plastic to cover the pour holes, as it expands you mash down on it and this gives a nice "sealed edge to the foam and keeps it from going everywhere.

Lewis, have to disagree with you here.  Excess foam as it expands needs to get out of there.  "Mash" down on it, and if has a good ways to go before totally kicking off, it's gonna find a means of egress...like against the stringer verticals or even the tops of the stringers.

What we used to do was cut several pieces of cardboard, 3 X 3, little scrapers if you will, and continually scrape the exiting foam from all the holes until the expansion had REALLY slowed down.  Once the expansion was complete, and just a little foam was sticking out, shave it flush with the stringer tops, coat it with epoxy...done, and a nice sealed surface...

[love2fish]

good point Bob. I all that expanding foam has to go somewhere or else: POP!

if you just skim across the top/opening as it starts to set up, you'll still be able to get the "seal" of the cured foam.

[seabob4]

Keep in mind, that foam hole doesn't have to look pretty, as a good serious bead of Arjay bonding putty is going to be spread on top of that stringer before the deck/liner in put in place...