Attention: Have 2 pages to see today

Author Topic: RickK's 170 rebuild  (Read 75288 times)

June 01, 2017, 06:37:28 PM
Reply #1365

McAllgeyver

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 108
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1365 on: June 01, 2017, 06:37:28 PM »
Close call on the gas. Looks like you know your limits with that temp tank! The motor seems strong now. That's great. If it's easy to pull your tach, might want to thow another one in and verify whether it's the tach or motor. Especially since your in the break in period.   Oh yeah, the hook you took out of the hull, or rather the built in trim tabs you filled in, is definitely not helping with the porpoising. Different hull bottom=different ride. Might look into a stern raising prop??  Thanks for the feedback !!
Going to pursue the toe recess for mine. Hope it comes out close to your craftsmanship.
Sean A.

1975 Banana River Skiff - rebuilt - SOLD
1973 19-6 Osprey - rebuilt

June 03, 2017, 08:10:56 PM
Reply #1366

theFunsmith

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 265
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1366 on: June 03, 2017, 08:10:56 PM »
Rick,

I just finished reading this thread end to end. Absolutely amazing rebuild. It is full of killer information, and a ton of inspiration. Thank you for documenting the process so well.

June 04, 2017, 07:00:52 PM
Reply #1367

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11283
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1367 on: June 04, 2017, 07:00:52 PM »
You're welcome and thanks for the kind review - I learned a lot on this project. I could have just posted 20 pages or so but my intent was putting up good learning material for other beginners, like I was.  I posted good and bad results so others won't make the same mistakes I did but also get some ideas they can use or improve on. What I learned is that working with fiberglass is forgiving and mistakes can be fixed (other than the main hull - that'd be scary).
I just wish I would have done more mold work. Working in a negative can be a challenge - the transom liner I did was a real challenge but worked out nice. I still need to make a storage tray for under the seat, so I will get another shot at it. I want to try to gelcoat it first and then lay glass on it. Learning, learning, learning - if you stop learning, you're toast.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

October 18, 2017, 01:36:44 PM
Reply #1368

AquaNewbie

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 18
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1368 on: October 18, 2017, 01:36:44 PM »

What an extensive rebuild!  I think this boat should be relabeled as a 2017 model, not  a 1971.    :-)

Dave


October 18, 2017, 06:09:37 PM
Reply #1369

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11283
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1369 on: October 18, 2017, 06:09:37 PM »
Thanks.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

October 18, 2017, 10:26:04 PM
Reply #1370

theFunsmith

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 265
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1370 on: October 18, 2017, 10:26:04 PM »
Rick,

I love your helm bench. I was wondering where you found it. I am not seeing much of anything like it.

October 19, 2017, 05:39:24 AM
Reply #1371

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11283
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1371 on: October 19, 2017, 05:39:24 AM »
I had it custom made. I found a similar one online that was much taller and took a picture of it to a local manuf and had it made.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

October 19, 2017, 09:44:55 PM
Reply #1372

boatnamesue

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 564
  • Jason
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1372 on: October 19, 2017, 09:44:55 PM »
Hey Rickk...I'm sure you documented and photographed the installation of your thru hull livewell pump.  But frankly you've got 90+ pages going, so you know  :mrgreen:  You mind detailing the components you used from outer hull to inner hull, i.e. did you use a backing block seacock, flanged ball type seacock, high speed pickup, etc.  Or if you know the exact page number in your rebuild thread please paste link.  Thanks.
---------------
Jason
1976 AS 170
1998 S115TLRW

October 20, 2017, 05:25:59 AM
Reply #1373

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11283
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1373 on: October 20, 2017, 05:25:59 AM »
I don't have any through-hulls.  I added a bilge pump and exhaust out the side - that's it.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

October 31, 2017, 07:39:20 PM
Reply #1374

JimInPB

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 36
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1374 on: October 31, 2017, 07:39:20 PM »
I notice that the stainless piano hinge on the console and the screws that I installed in the front speakers are rusting now. Do I need to wax the hinge before I install it?  Not sure what is going on, haven't even launched yet and already replacing stuff  :think:

You might need some "pickling paste" if that is stainless that is rusting.  Pickling Paste is an acid gel that eats the free ferrous molecules out of the surface of the stainless alloy.  The process is called passivization.  Properly passivized 304 (aka 18-8) is actually more corrosion resistant than active (untreated) 316.
http://www.smex.net.au/reference/Corrosion02_NobilityScale.php

This is one source for the type of material that I am talking about.:
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/wichard-wichinox-stainless-steel-etcher-cleaner

October 31, 2017, 07:41:23 PM
Reply #1375

JimInPB

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 36
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1375 on: October 31, 2017, 07:41:23 PM »
Also,
That's a super sweet rebuild. 
I just looked at this thread for the first time in many months & wow, just wow. 

Nice work.

November 01, 2017, 07:13:11 AM
Reply #1376

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11283
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1376 on: November 01, 2017, 07:13:11 AM »
I notice that the stainless piano hinge on the console and the screws that I installed in the front speakers are rusting now. Do I need to wax the hinge before I install it?  Not sure what is going on, haven't even launched yet and already replacing stuff  :think:

You might need some "pickling paste" if that is stainless that is rusting.  Pickling Paste is an acid gel that eats the free ferrous molecules out of the surface of the stainless alloy.  The process is called passivization.  Properly passivized 304 (aka 18-8) is actually more corrosion resistant than active (untreated) 316.
http://www.smex.net.au/reference/Corrosion02_NobilityScale.php

This is one source for the type of material that I am talking about.:
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/wichard-wichinox-stainless-steel-etcher-cleaner
Yup, I need to do something about this - thanks for the info.  Almost sounds like Ospho would do this also? (Phosphoric acid)
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

November 01, 2017, 07:14:12 AM
Reply #1377

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11283
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1377 on: November 01, 2017, 07:14:12 AM »
Also,
That's a super sweet rebuild. 
I just looked at this thread for the first time in many months & wow, just wow. 

Nice work.
Thanks.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

November 02, 2017, 07:09:04 PM
Reply #1378

JimInPB

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 36
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1378 on: November 02, 2017, 07:09:04 PM »
Yup, I need to do something about this - thanks for the info.  Almost sounds like Ospho would do this also? (Phosphoric acid)

I know that some old timers used to clean their chrome with Coke or Pepsi, because the phosphoric acid in it would help to eat up the rust, but I'm not sure that phosphoric is the correct type of acid to treat stainless to hold up to salt water.  I just don't know.

Pickling paste is the easy way to passivize stainless.  There is also a commercial process that uses a liquid mixture of acids & an electric charge.  I think that the commercial mixture is usually muriatic (aka hydrochloric) with a touch of hydroflouric thrown in. It's a pretty mean mixture.  It will eat through a glass jar if given enough time.  (don't ask)

The Wichinox tube that I have is written in German, so I can't read the label all that well.  As near as I can figure, the acid in it is a close cousin of sulfuric. 

Most of the publicly available rust removers I have seen in places like Lowes & Home Depot are based on oxalic acid.  I've often wondered if that would work for treating stainless, but I never tried it.

If you try your phosphoric based chemical, please let us know how it works out.  I'd be interested to learn about new options.  Wichinox tends to be kind of pricey, even from the discount guys & the commercial stuff is just too mean of a mixture for me to keep laying around.

November 02, 2017, 07:20:04 PM
Reply #1379

RickK

  • *****
  • Information Offline
  • Administrator
  • Posts: 11283
Re: RickK's 170 rebuild
« Reply #1379 on: November 02, 2017, 07:20:04 PM »
Will do - I just bought a bottle of Ospho so I'll have some to try.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

 


SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal