Rollers to bunks rebuild

[jsylvester08]

Hey everyone I thank you all in advance for your help. I have an '86 osprey 200 on a single axel trailer and I decided it needed to be updated. The trailer I have is way underrated. The whole frame bends with the boat sitting on it, and I drive it between Boston and New York aboit once a month. So I obviously need a little more reassurance then a single axel.  So I found a dual axel cox super loader trailer dirt cheap. It needs new leafy springs and I'm goons to do the bearings as well so my own self assurance. But where I need everyones experience is converting the trailer to bunks from rollers. All the rollers are busted so I don't want to replace them.
My question is, I see that there is no cross bars on the cox super loader. The game seems basically just to be the " U roller" ( I don't know hat u call it) on the back of the trailer and a rotating bar on the front of the trailer.  My question is two fold, had anyone ever converted this type of trailer ? If so do I need te crossbar? Can I use the "u" roller at the back? Should I find a welder to put a cross member in the back and front? I'm a little bit at a loss right now. Thanks agin in advance for your input. I will add pictures ASAP

[Blue Agave]

Pics will help significantly.

[RickK]

Down her in FL bunks make a lot of sense because our tide swing is a massive 2 ft, maybe 2 1/2 sometimes and our ramps are usually somewhat gentle (I know I hear the rumbling already - try the ramp at Franklin locks you FL boyz if you want to experience a ramp)
Anyway,  we don't usually have to "drag" our boats up on the trailer because there is no water.  I think that rollers are a plus for the guys up north that have steep ramps and HUGE tides - too bad there isn't a super trailer that once you utilize the convenience of rollers, they retract and the boat settles down onto bunks for support.  

[jsylvester08]

i'm working on uploading images now but i will try to complete it tomorrow. I uploaded them to the photo gallery. hopefully you can see them there they are under "cox super loader trailer"
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... hp?cat=655

I hope this helps a little bit I will try again to upload them here.

FM

[gman 82 aquasport]

Ok, I'll give my 2 cents here, as I have a 1982 19-6 osprey that I converted the trailer from rollers to bunks last season.There is a posting on here of my conversion..
#1 You have crossmembers fore and aft of the axles.
I would take some measurements of the width of your hull and depth and see if it will fit between the fenders with a few inches ( 2-4) to spare on each side. If it fits, cut off all the roller mounts by cutting the bolts... Replace all the keel rollers making sure they are high enough so your keel won't hit the crossmembers. Take the front assembly, remove the rollers and lock it in place by bolting it thru the frame so it doesn't pivot anymore. replace those keel rollers too..
Since your two cross bars are flat(not angled) you will need to find the hull angle( I took a 2x6 and held it to the hull at the distance apart they would be and marked the hull angle on them as a pattern) you will need the wood for the bunks, cyprys if you can, I used 3 2x10 treated lumber screwed together(overkill), mine are almost 11 feet long. you will need to mark and cut your hull angle on the wood top..Get some bunk brackets( trailer superstore) and new bolts for them.
While your getting bolts I would replace every bolt and u-bolt on the trailer..
If you wanted to get rid of the front assembly there are trailer places on google that have crossmembers the come in different widths and bolt in, you need something up front to mount a keel roller to to keep the keel off the front tongue. Remember you don't want the hull to ride on the keel rollers once the hull is completely on the trailer..
Cover the bunk tops with carpet or the slides to your preference..Try to get the bunks centered under your stringers for the best support.. With the bunk brackets you can raise the front of the bunks a little to help with the loading process and to help it let water run out..Hope this helps...By the way my conversion ran me about $300-$350 for all the stuff(u-bolts get pricey)stainless screws for the bunks..took me about 2 days total to do it all, boat was on blocks while it was being done as I rebuilt my floor last year also.

[DELTA DOOLER]

free image hosting

my 2cents

add crossmember to rear of trailer along with a 12-15" keel roller (didnt add it in pic I edited, sorry )
remove all rollers and associated brackets
install "bunk brackets" and 4" x 10 or 12" bunks and carpet
install 12-15" "skid plates" on crossmembers
install 12" keel roller on fabbed crossmember.


hard to really give good info without looking at trailer and boat, hopefully pic will help a little.

[jsylvester08]

Thanks for the input and the illustration as well. I am currently in NY where I live and the boat is in Boston so it will be another weekend before I can get back and take some measurements. While I am here in NY I have been thinking about things I will need to get together. I was thinking about replacing the hubs when I am doing the bearings. How do I figure out the size of the replacment hubs I need. Also the leaf springs that I have been looking at I have learned there are a few different types. I think the type on my trailer are "Open eye slipper springs" (eastern marine) Can you tell me does it make a difference if I get this type of leaf springs or double eye springs.
Also the trailer came with an electric winch. I'm told the winch "worked great" when it was used last. But the previous owner lost the wire connecting the winch to the truck so my question is, dose anyone have much experience with these? Is it worth investing in the wire and putting the wiring into my truck? Is there any way to test it without buying the wires?
Last thing.
I see everyone suggests using cypress. Why cypress? I doubt Home depot or the likes carries it. Where would I be able to find it and what kind of prices does it run. I I was to go with something more like a pressure treated beam would it make much of a difference?

[Circle Hooked]

try the ramp at Franklin locks you FL boyz if you want to experience a ramp)

Must agree with that one  

[DELTA DOOLER]

Thanks for the input and the illustration as well. I am currently in NY where I live and the boat is in Boston so it will be another weekend before I can get back and take some measurements. While I am here in NY I have been thinking about things I will need to get together. I was thinking about replacing the hubs when I am doing the bearings. How do I figure out the size of the replacment hubs I need.I would take an old one off and bring it with me to wherever im purchasing the new ones at so I could compare them Also the leaf springs that I have been looking at I have learned there are a few different types. I think the type on my trailer are "Open eye slipper springs" (eastern marine) Can you tell me does it make a difference if I get this type of leaf springs or double eye springs. unless you are going to modify your current spring hangers, youll have to stay with the current slipper style springs, me personally, I prefer the eyes on each end, no particular reason, just prefer them .
Also the trailer came with an electric winch. I'm told the winch "worked great" when it was used last. But the previous owner lost the wire connecting the winch to the truck so my question is, dose anyone have much experience with these?not me Is it worth investing in the wire and putting the wiring into my truck? Is there any way to test it without buying the wires?with a trailer set up correctly and by your boat being only 20', my opinion is that a electric winch is not necassary and by getting a manual winch set up on traler, thats one less thing to have to worry about not working.
Last thing.I see everyone suggests using cypress. Why cypress? I doubt Home depot or the likes carries it. Where would I be able to find it and what kind of prices does it run. I I was to go with something more like a pressure treated beam would it make much of a difference?

Ive never seen cypess used, (not that i know of) ive used pressure treated pine and have gotten many years from it.