Fuel Sending Unit for 200 Osprey

[daniel123]

What brand/model/size fuel sending unit do I want to use to replace the stock one in my 1999 200 Osprey with stock (50 gallon?) fuel tank?

Dan

[Capt. Bob]

These are currently very popular amongst Forum members and boaters of all makes and models as a replacement for the float/arm type used for so many years.

http://www.wemausa.com/

Removal of your existing gauge and depth measurement of your tank is the most precise method of obtaining the correct model for your specific application.

The SSL pictured on left is the style/type in my tank.

[daniel123]

Bob:

Those look great and at $40 the price is right. Problem is, I am having my local boat shop do the job, as I can't get the old sender out due to rusted screws, so I need to bring the correct sender in with the boat if I can. I'm hoping a CA site member with a 200 Osprey has replaced his and knows what size/length sender to recommend, which I can order and have in hand when I drop the boat off. It's going to be bad enough that I'm supplying my own parts....

Since I'm on the matter, I 'm also having the shop pull the stock AS dash panel and mount the new AS one, which looks identical except for missing two holes for 2" gauges, which will have to be cut.  I'm not confident in my hole-cutting or re-wiring skills and it's one of those areas I figure is best left to a pro. Any thoughts?

That said, and if all goes smoothly, how much shop time do you think is reasonable to tackle those two jobs?

Dan

[daniel123]

I was able to get the corroded fuel sender of the top of the fuel tank using vise-grips, channel locks and serious swearing to free the five rusted bolts.  Using a ruler, the tank depth measures 7 inches from the lip of the access to the bottom of the tank. I assume that means I need a 7 inch sender? Just so I know it was the old sender that was broken, and not my fuel gauge, now that it is out, is there a way to test the sender with a voltmeter to tell if it is working?

[Capt. Bob]

I  Using a ruler, the tank depth measures 7 inches from the lip of the access to the bottom of the tank. I assume that means I need a 7 inch sender?

Dan,
From the WEMA site. This will help with sizing. Read both.
http://www.wemausa.com/tank-sensors/det ... ensors.htm
http://www.wemausa.com/specifications/aftmkweb.htm

Just so I know it was the old sender that was broken, and not my fuel gauge, now that it is out, is there a way to test the sender with a voltmeter to tell if it is working?

Using an ohm meter, you can measure resistance increase/decrease through the float range.
Here's a simple video but you get the idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xomRLju3Fn0

Lastly, in response to your panel question costs, I'd base it on what your mechanic's hourly rate is. Cutting out the holes is simple enough with the right tools so not much time there, but a proper rewiring job will take the better part of the day (or more) when done by a qualified tech. SeaBob's the man for that answer. I have no idea what someone may run into when they start removing your panel.

Good luck.

[wingtime]

You want a sender a 1/2" or an inch shorter than the depth of the tank.  That way even at empty you still have some fuel in the tank.  Also you dont want the sender touching the bottom of the tank.

I guess Capt Bob beat me to it..  lol

[dburr]

Dan check out this thread, more or less same questions

http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9383&hilit=Sender

Good luck!

[daniel123]

Great help, guys! I got the old rusty sending unit off. Now I have to decide between a Moeller swing arm, which I can get with the gasket and screws for $22 and appears to be what was in there originally, or a WEMA 6" model from Great Lakes Scuttlebutt for $42, with gasket. If you recommend the WEMA, and my tank measures 7 inches from bottom to lip of the sender hole, WEMA suggests you order a size at least one inch shorter than the tank depth, which would be a 6 inch one. Does that sound right or should I go with a 6.5 inch length? Waht's teh advantage of the WEMA over the Moeller?

In the meanwhile, my tank is 2/3 full of StarTron-treated gas. I turned the battery switch to off, covered the sender unit opening with a with a rag to keep bugs and debris from falling into the tank, and have opened both deckplates aft of the one that accesses the sender to allow circulation in the bilge. Does that stabilize things enough between now and when I can get a new sender installed?

Once I get the new sender installed on the poly fuel tank, I had planned to top it off and double-treat it for the off-season, but I'm thinking now might be a good time to empty that tank since the access is there. Is there anything else I could/should do maintenance-wise while I have access to the inside of the tank? Dredge for scudge?

[Capt. Bob]

If you recommend the WEMA, and my tank measures 7 inches from bottom to lip of the sender hole, WEMA suggests you order a size at least one inch shorter than the tank depth, which would be a 6 inch one. Does that sound right or should I go with a 6.5 inch length? Waht's teh advantage of the WEMA over the Moeller?

The 1" dimension is based on the flexing of the tank material. I'm thinking they (WEMA) spec a 1" shorter sender length to allow for this flexing which appears to be more pronounced with a poly tank as opposed to a metal tank. You tank is aluminum (at least it appears to be) so you probably could get away with a slightly longer sender.

The advantage of the WEMA is twofold.
First, they are a sealed unit that has a greater survival rate in the caustic environment of the tank and second, they use a float that slides on the sensor tube rather than an extended arm so as to reduce the flutter/waving of the gauge indicator due to the fuel slouching in the tank while underway.

That stated, they are basically a rough indicator of fuel quantity. You need to go to the next level and install a fuel metering device to really know just what's happening in the tank.

Good luck.

[daniel123]

Thanks for the advice. Actually, I think my tank is poly, and I will go the WEMA route based on your recommendation. What fuel metering device do you recommend/is popular among AS owners? This seems to be the best time to get one installed. In the meanwhile, is my rag-on-the-open-sending-unit access sufficient or is something more called for until I get the new sending unit installed?

[dburr]

Dan If it is going to be any length of time, put the old sender back in withe a gasket/RTV like you mean to keep it there (it's what I did but I worry a lot)..  When the new unit arrives, install it.  You want to make sure you keep any potential boogers out.  Just think of that new Subaru add with the kids washing the car with the windows open      That would be heinous....

It's more work now but at least you will sleep unfettered...

Oh yeah, and IRT a previous conversation, in a pint glass, 3 ice cubes covered by Gosling's, then two fingers lemon seltzer, then top with Dole mango peach juice.

No messin with fuel tanks after that!!

[daniel123]

Dave:

That original gasket is long gone -- as I will be once I try that Gosling's recipe! And great timing; just as I was getting tired of Dark 'n' Stormies....

Thanks for the advice on BOTH fronts!

Dan

PS: I just ordered the WEMA sender based on all the advice.