Bilge/Fishbox Pump Power and Wire Question

[daniel123]

With what appears to be a factory dash/switch panel on the '99 Osprey I just bought, when I flip the toggle switch on for the Fishbox Pumpout or the Bilge Pump, both pumps go on. Is that right?

In the bilge at the transom, there also is one white wire, from the grey-covered multi-wire wire assembly coming from the panel, that is lose with an exposed/uninsulated end in the bilge pump/float switch wiring set up. It appears it may be intended for inclusion in a wire nut adjacent to it that connects the wire labeled "Negative" from the bilge pump and a brown wire from the float switch. I'm thinking the exposed white wire may be something to do with the float switch and should be re-inserted into the wire nut?

Is that float switch supposed to be direct-wired to allow the bilge pump to turn on with a certain water level even when my battery switch is on the OFF position, to protect my (primarily trailered) boat from sinking when it is at the dock? Any advice is welcome!

[GoneFission]

Is that a wire nut?     The pumps should be wired separately.  The bilge pump should have an "on-off-auto" switch is down for automatic (goes through the float switch) and up for on (constant on - does not go through the float switch).  The fishbox pump should have its own spst switch that is just on or off.  Note most fishbox pumps are macerator pumps and take heavier wiring and switches than a standard bilge pump.  Most bilge pumps are fused at 5 or 10 amps.  Macerator pumps are fused at 15 or 20 amps.

[Capt. Bob]

That's a wire nut alright.

They work great in ceiling fans cause you don't need any liquid tape.

That is if your roof doesn't leak.

PS..... Here's something that may help
viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5214

The Resource forum is your friend.

[daniel123]

Okaaaaaay...

-So nix the wire nut for what? (At least the PO did try to cover it with Liquid Tape, as you can see in the photos...)

-And attach the exposed white wire, which is for what, to where? If I put it with the other two wires with the wire nut (Or whatever connection you recommend to splice them) what may that do/change?

-Will West Marine likely have a three-position toggle (like the one for the Anchor/Nav lights on the dash panel) for the bilge pump? Are there any hoops to jump through to make that wiring transition?

-How do I get the power to the bilge and the fishbox pumps separated and on their own toggles?

I'm just learning my way around these more sophisticated (to me, anyway) electrical systems, so sorry if I'm asking rudimentary -- or too many -- questions.

I bought a salvaged new factory AS Osprey 200 dash panel that has all the switches and wiring but no gauges. I was going to wait unit the off season (I'm in OH-IO, where there is such a thing...) to make the change, install my gauges and hope the wiring harness on the new panel plugs in to the old....Maybe that's the time to re-do this wiring? For now, just getting a glimpse of the back of the dash panel requires the size and flexibility of a Romanian, er..US gymnast.

[kraw2]

You definately need to have the wiring redone. Generally with a 3 wire automatic bilge pump one of the brown wires will have a white stripe. That's for automatic operation. A white wire in your harness must  be from the previous owner and will have to be traced to see what it actually does, if anything at all.

[seabob4]

You have a Rule bilge pump and float switch, so the wiring is easy.  The brown wire from the pump joined with one gray lead from the float, that goes to your manual switch at the helm.  The other gray lead from the flot goes either straight to the batt + or to batt 1 or 2 if you have a batt switch.  Install a fuse within 7" of the termination.  The black from the pump goes to ground...

Easy peezy...

And this is what you need for making your splices...http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Items/gim- ... 20-%2010pk

NO WIRE NUTS ON BOATS!!! :x  :x  :x

[daniel123]

Thanks for the advice and the proper connection link. Can I get these heat shrink connectors at WM, HD or Lowe's so I don't have to wait or pay shipping? If I do end up ordering these, are there other sizes I would want to order to have on hand for similar work? Are there heat shrink fuse receptacles I should be buying too?  

Thanks again, guys!

[Capt. Bob]

Can I get these heat shrink connectors at WM, HD or Lowe's

WD does indeed carry them. You would need to call to see if they are in stock at your store.
http://catalogs.westmarine.com/WebProje ... kCode=wma# (pg.427)

A quick review shows they are double in cost so you pay for the convenience of time in both product and fuel (unless you walk).
Shipping (on this product) is free from both so you only save time and only you are the judge on that value as it pertains to yourself.

Fuse connectors (or breakers) are best located adjacent to the controlling switch (duh). Still, inline water resistant fuses are available at Dealz (large capacity)and here http://www.wholesalemarine.com/pc/S-D-4 ... older.html (small).

Buying a variety of both splice and ring terminals can't hurt and you never know when you might need a different size.
http://shop.genuinedealz.com/Marine%20E ... %20Splice/
My experience has been shipping is fairly quick with these guys. SB would know best.

Lowes and HD carry some "weatherproof" heat seal connectors and shrink wrap also but if locating in the bilge area I'd be inclined to use the marine type. Too, making the proper splice with wire in good condition (think corroded) and using shrink wrap will work fine. The proper crimping tool is as important as the butt splice itself but that's just my thoughts. I'm sure others will chime in though.

On a boat though, my experience has been that my cutting, stripping and crimping tools are used as much as just about any tool I own. It seems I'm always working on the electrical aspects of the boat be it new or maintenance. I have been very lucky with longevity of repair and that is based on the above. Your mileage may vary.

Good luck.

[flounderpounder225]

Hey guys... Autozone sells the heat shrink connectors also, butt connectors, ring terminals, all of it, and decent prices.  Just FYI

[daniel123]

Thanks for all the great advice guys!

Dan

[seabob4]

Hey guys... Autozone sells the heat shrink connectors also, butt connectors, ring terminals, all of it, and decent prices.  Just FYI

What Marc said.  And, if you have a Harbor Frieght nearby, they also sell them, 10 pack of heat shrink 16-14 GA for $3...

If I may, about Genuinedealz.  I live N of Tampa, they are in Brunswick, GA.  Not only do you not pay shipping (factored into the price), but they send everything USPS priority, I usually get my stuff in 2 days...

[daniel123]

I WAS JUST AT HARBOR FREIGHT! Right before I got home and got this! I looked while there, but didn't see them, but didn't look too hard because I didn't expect to...

While I have you, any advice on removing the (faded, dated and worn) AS decals from the sides of my Osprey?

[seabob4]

I WAS JUST AT HARBOR FREIGHT! Right before I got home and got this! I looked while there, but didn't see them, but didn't look too hard because I didn't expect to...

While I have you, any advice on removing the (faded, dated and worn) AS decals from the sides of my Osprey?

At my HF in New Port Richey, there is an electrical isle in the second row of "rows", just to the left of the front door.  Heat shrink, terminals, multimeters, that kind of chit.  The one on Fletcher and Florida Ave. in Tampa, it's more towards the middle of the store.  Have to look around...

Old decals?  Heat gun and then some solvent like Goo-be-gone for he adhesive residue.  Lots of threads here on THAT subject!

[Capt. Bob]

While I have you, any advice on removing the (faded, dated and worn) AS decals from the sides of my Osprey?

Not sure if this is the brand Lewis recommended but it's a start.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Stripe-Wheel-0 ... B00063VT0G

[daniel123]

Thanks!

Dan