Trolling motor install

[alandry100]

I am installing a bow mounted trolling motor to my  79' 170. I was wondering if anyone has done this - and what is the best "route" to send the wires to the console?

[wessnapp]

My 200 had an access plate under the forward livewell:


However, wouldn't you want to have your batteries up front closest to your motor anyway?  I would find a way to store them up in the forward hatch.

[alandry100]

It would be better if they were up front but I don't think the large hatch is deep enough. Will check this afternoon.

[Capt. Bob]

One solution.
viewtopic.php?p=50936#p50936

[Aswaff400]

i fit 3 group 24's under the front hatch on my 200 osprey, just scroll down that link bob posted...

[alandry100]

Batteries do not fit in any of the forward hatches, they are roughly 9" tall as is the battery. I think I will have to run down to the rigging channel, I should be able to push them through there. Hopefully the wire chase will find a similar line as the forward nav lights. I like the idea of the LED strip lights just below above the rub-rail? My nav light is corroded to hell and the trolling motor will cover it up so I need to go with something else. I was going to go with console mounted lights until I saw the LED option. I really like that.

[GoneFission]

You don't want the batteries up front - too much pounding up there.  Put them under the console, use a 50A breaker, and run #6 wire under the deck or under the gunwale up to an outlet in the bow.  You may be able to use the bow light wire as a pull tape for the larger trolling motor wire and pull a new bow light wire with it.  It's not a bad idea to put a volt meter there too - so you can see how the battery charge is holding up:

[alandry100]

Gone Fission - that looks like a great set up. I think I am going for something like that.

Does this seem like the best path- Under the gunwale/deck to the rigging channel?  Can you remove the channel top without removing the console - it appears to me that you can. Also what is the best material to re-set the screws once you put it back together, silicon calk?

[GoneFission]

Gone Fission - that looks like a great set up. I think I am going for something like that.

Does this seem like the best path- Under the gunwale/deck to the rigging channel?  Can you remove the channel top without removing the console - it appears to me that you can. Also what is the best material to re-set the screws once you put it back together, silicon calk?

White 4200UV would work well and stand up to the sunlight.  5200 would work too, but will turn yellow with sun exposure.

[alandry100]

Picked up some 4000, got it before I read the reply, I think it will work ok though.  

Couple of questions,

For those of you who have run battery cables from the console to the bow - the running lights go to the stern through the rigging channel then to the all around then to the bow. I don't really want to buy 70' of 6 gauge to do this. Where do you recommend running the cables. I was thinking to drill a hole in the forward side of the rigging channel before the first bend and running the cables through the bilge and come up under the "anchor locker"?

If this is the best route - does anyone have any hints or tips on how to do this. There are not many access points. There are bilge access hatches in the starboard forward hatch and the side wall for the gas vent. Other than that there is not much.

[seabob4]

Alandry,
You would be surprised at the access to the anchor locker area once you start poking around with the proper snake.  I use an old universal shift/throttle cable.  Feed it under the cockpit sole aiming forward.  You want to "feel" for gaps between the stringers and the underside of the sole, as well as listen to where the end of the cable is coming in contact with something solid.

Keep at it, you'll find a way forward...without having to go aft!

[GoneFission]

Keep at it, you'll find a way forward...without having to go aft!

Some folks only go half aft...    

[seabob4]

CJ, you've developed a lisp?