Windshield Replacement

[MJB1]

I've got a 1976 17Ft and after the rebuild I didn't want to use the old windshield and I'm finally getting around to purchasing one from UPD Plastics.  I have the old one which I dry fitted awhile back and thought it was the wrong one because of the gap between the windshield and the console all the way around.  Then I spotted a 17 ft down the street from me and I noticed there was a gap all the way around the windshield and the console.  So, after looking at the old one I have and dry fitting it again it is the original.  

Whats the pro/con of having that gap?  If I go with the original size windshield whats the size/width of the spacers and what type of material were they made of originally (I was thinking of using Starboard)?  Can I get spacers anywhere or do I have to fab them?  How far down is the bottom edge of the windshield from the top of the console?  Also, I see on the UPD website they have 1974 and 1977 model year replacements in stock but no 1976 -- will a 1974 or 1977 fit a 1976 model?  I do plan to contact them, but was wondering if anyone here knew the answer already.

MJB
1976 17Ft Aquasport
Atlantic Beach, NC

[seabob4]

The reason for leaving a gap is so that dirt, bugs, seaweed, whatever, don't get trapped between the windshield and the console.  On windshields that fit snugly, the bottom portion below the dash flat is painted black, like this replacement I put on the doc's Talon.  He got it made by Plastics America here in Tampa...



As far as UPD having different models, that tells me there was a change, so I would call them on your '76.  Take the forward and side measurements, as well as the height, they can compare to what they have...

[GoneFission]

MJB - welcome to another NC Aquasport!  Come on down to Charleston in October for the reunion!  

The gap does two things:
-  It allows water and trash to drain, so you don't accumulate muck in a crevice you can't get to
-  It allows air to move up under the windshield so there is less fogging on the inside

The original spacers were clear plastic, but you could make up the spacers from 1/2" starboard very easily - just use a small (3/4") hole saw and cut them out.  The hole saw will cut nice circles with a hole in the middle for the screw.  Remember to use finishing washers on the outside - otherwise the screws will crack the plexiglass when you tighen them down.  Also use nyloc nuts on the inside if you don't want the nuts to get loose and rattle.  

See ya on the water!

[gran398]

if you want to really get fancy...on the outside between the plastic and the finishing washer...you can use a rubber ring for bedding/vibration protection.

PS..welcome fellow Tarheel!

[saltfly]

You know you can make you own. It only take a home made bending form and a heat gun. All those plastics starts to soften at around 325 and bends before it gets to 345 degrees. Well with in the heat guns range. I’ve been making my own for 30 years now. Its one of the easiest thing you can do your self.

[Circle Hooked]

You know you can make you own. It only take a home made bending form and a heat gun. All those plastics starts to soften at around 325 and bends before it gets to 345 degrees. Well with in the heat guns range. I’ve been making my own for 30 years now. Its one of the easiest thing you can do your self.

Good info,thanks for the tip