Which switch is better?

[jrozycki]

I have a Perko switch on board my 1977 CC 19'6" 115 Johnson, it is near the engine on the starboard side.
My Perko is the one with OFF, 1, 2, ALL.

I want to add a second HOUSE battery and have a copy of the schematics (from Seabob).
I went to Defender and the guy recommended
http://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/overview/329
but this switch is just OFF, ON, COMBINE.

Should I buy just the ACR or should I buy this package deal and replace my Perko that has to me more "options"?
The price difference is about 40 bucks b/n just the ACR and the ACR/Switch combo.
The Seabob schematic shows a 1-2 switch but I am not sure if the Off-1-2-All is better than an On-Off-Combine.

The other thing is they recommend the switch being as close to the battery, but like I mentioned my is closer to the engine. The benny to getting the combo is I could move the swtich closer to the CC and batteries.

Thanks!
Jeff

[pete]

I don't know if better is the right word or just different.I have the perko switch and the acr and it works great,keeps the second battery charged as a backup always ready to go.I think the difference in the 2 switches is on the blue seas batt 2 is hooked up as your house batt,powering your 12 volt accessories, and batt 1 your starting batt.On the perko switch when on 1, batt 2 is disconnected form the system and just being rechared by the acr system.SO if you have a distribution panel that batt 2 is hooked to powering your accessories and batt 1 is used as a starting battery,then use the blue seas switch,if not stay with the perko,either way get the acr and an onboard charger.If I'm wrong about this one of the bros will tell us.  

here is a good discussion on the topic  viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6643  and   viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6890

[jrozycki]

This document describes the different switches pretty good.
http://bluesea.com/viewresource/1388

I've decided to change out my 4 position switch for the blue sea dual circuit plus.

Just not sure about all the fuses they have specified in their schematic.

Also if I keep the switch near the engine, I 'd have to run another red/black 2 AWG all the way to the center console, that wire aint cheap.

[seabob4]

This document describes the different switches pretty good.
http://bluesea.com/viewresource/1388

I've decided to change out my 4 position switch for the blue sea dual circuit plus.

Just not sure about all the fuses they have specified in their schematic.

Also if I keep the switch near the engine, I 'd have to run another red/black 2 AWG all the way to the center console, that wire aint cheap.

Install the switch in the console if that's where your batts live.  You'll need to run 2GA back to the motor if you haven't already done so.  genuinedealz has it for around $4/ft right now, best you are going to get...

[John Jones]

genuinedealz has it for around $4/ft right now, best you are going to get...

 

And they only charge $1 per end labor to put the connectors on for you.  I would not do it for less than $5 per.

[jrozycki]

This document describes the different switches pretty good.
http://bluesea.com/viewresource/1388

I've decided to change out my 4 position switch for the blue sea dual circuit plus.

Just not sure about all the fuses they have specified in their schematic.

Also if I keep the switch near the engine, I 'd have to run another red/black 2 AWG all the way to the center console, that wire aint cheap.

Install the switch in the console if that's where your batts live.  You'll need to run 2GA back to the motor if you haven't already done so.  genuinedealz has it for around $4/ft right now, best you are going to get...

Yes Batteries are in the console.

Seabob4
Could I just keep the old perko switch permanently on and then utilize the 2 AWG cable already run from the console to the perko and the existing engine wire harness?
Or swap out the old perko and put in the blue sea power post (which then would have to be mounted in the same location as the old perko)
http://bluesea.com/category/9/38/produc ... erview/400

 It's not so much I'm trying to save 120 bucks for cable, but I'd rather not have to mess with the wire connections in the motor.  I opened the cover to my motor Johnson 115 and had a hard time seeing where they terminate.  I could always hire that portion out if it is definitely worth running a continuous run from console to engine.
Thanks



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