Author Topic: wiring problem (Read 1126 times)

pete · « **on:** July 26, 2010, 08:58:19 PM »

Mr Seabob,on my 225 the nav lights and courtesy lights are not working.I got out my voltmeter but I couldnt figure out what could be wrong,bad switch,circuit breaker,bad connection?All the rest of the panel works fine.What would be a good place to start?There's a lot of wires.

Pete

seabob4 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 26, 2010, 09:17:11 PM »

Dammit Pete, I hate when there are lots of wires...

First, check the ground bus inside your helm. Make sure all wires are tight. Then check the leads going to the center terminal on your switches for voltage from your breakers, then, with your switches in the ON position, check for output voltage on the bottom terminal...report back, sir!

And cut out that "Mister" crap, that's reserved for Captain Bob and JJ...

bumpster · « **Reply #2 on:** July 26, 2010, 09:18:49 PM »

If you just want seabob then ignore this.lol
get a meter and start at one end. either start at the fixture or start at the breaker.Check your grounds also. If you start at the breaker start at the battery side and follow the power. Most breakers you can tell by the rocker or the button if they are bad so youcould go to the switch and see if power is getting to the switch if it is throw the switch and see if power comes out. If the power goes out to the fixture check to see if you have power at the fixture. My guess would be the switch since you say both lights are out. Check for battery voltage where the line comes "in" to the switch

seabob4 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 26, 2010, 09:20:39 PM »

Bumpster,
You read my mind...or I read yours...

flounderpounder225 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 26, 2010, 09:23:14 PM »

Pete,
I ran down all my light wiring during the restore, still working a few issues, but IMO the place to start would be at the accessory panel. Inside the console you will find the negative bus bar where all the black wires connect. Put your negative meter lead on that, then after you unscrew and pull out the accessory panel, the switches are pretty easy to read out. Basically there is a large red wire that comes up and connects to one circuit breaker, mine is at the left end or the Horn CB, it is then just jumped all the way down the panel providing 12 VDC to each CB respectively. On the other side of each CB it goes to the input side of the switch, and then as the switch is activated it goes out to the device. Basically you would put the positive meter lead on the associated CB on the opposite side of where the large red wire is attached, that will determine if voltage is traveling through the CB, then check the switch, you should have 12 VDC on one side always, and on the other side after you throw the switch. Your Nav lights have two positions, one for all lights, and the down position for the anchor or mast light. Once you verfiy you have voltage traveling through the switches, go the light fixtures, and test the wires there, a simple test light works well also, probably a little easier than a meter, because all you are looking for is voltage present or not? I had couple bad breakers, the terminal tabs were badly corroded. Good luck, BTW, found a good surplus place over in Ft. Pierce so may be taking a trip down south next month with a shopping list, looks like they have almost the identical stripe like you sent me...
Marc

pete · « **Reply #5 on:** July 26, 2010, 09:27:57 PM »

thanks guys!the response time was a little slow... 25 minutes to get all that info,you guys are the best,will let you know what I find out,tomorrow.
Pete

flounderpounder225 · « **Reply #6 on:** July 26, 2010, 09:29:45 PM »

Sorry guys, didn't mean to be redundant, everyone was answering, while I was typing (with one finger)

bumpster · « **Reply #7 on:** July 26, 2010, 09:36:22 PM »

I think it's mostly guys here so I believe "Hunt and Peck" would be the norm. BTW if you are heading to the surplus joint can you see if they have a set of 94 yamaha digital gauges? Mine are shot!

flounderpounder225 · « **Reply #8 on:** July 26, 2010, 09:43:36 PM »

Quote from: "bumpster"

I think it's mostly guys here so I believe "Hunt and Peck" would be the norm. BTW if you are heading to the surplus joint can you see if they have a set of 94 yamaha digital gauges? Mine are shot!

Which ones, I think I have one in my shop from my 95, 225, the display was "BLACKING" out, but the guts might be worth trying if it's not your display, not sure which gauge it was, I'll look if your interested, if so, you can have it.
Marc

Bumpster, it's the tach, small black area around the bottom of the gauge, do you want it? PM me your address, I'll ship it to you if you want?

bumpster · « **Reply #9 on:** July 26, 2010, 09:49:39 PM »

I havent looked at them in awhile since I have the wiring ripped out and doing all sorts of electrical upgrades but Both mine are shot. along with the switches ,pumps pretty much everything except the solder connections I made 2 years after I bought the boat new

John Jones · « **Reply #10 on:** July 26, 2010, 10:06:22 PM »

Quote from: "seabob4"

And cut out that "Mister" crap, that's reserved for Captain Bob and JJ...

:tongue:

seabob4 · « **Reply #11 on:** July 26, 2010, 10:11:30 PM »

And that ain't no Bullsh!t!

Capt. Bob · « **Reply #12 on:** July 28, 2010, 11:47:03 AM »

I believe that Rick K had a similar problem and if memory (what little remains) serves was traced to corroded connections at the light/bulb assembly itself.
E-Z check.

viewtopic.php?p=30486#p30486

pete · « **Reply #13 on:** August 03, 2010, 02:53:26 PM »

the breakers on the nav lights and courtesy lights were bad as well as the nav light switch,replaced them all as well as the bulbs on the nav lights and all around light and sandpapered and lubed the connections, while I was in full electrical mode I replace the LED indicator next to the bilge pump switch,it hasnt worked in a long time.problem solved,thanks

pete