replacing drum brakes with disc ?

[pete]

my brakes on my 2002 ezloader trailer quit so I started to take them apart to replace.......got on side off,the drum was in bad shape but the brake assembly didnt look too bad,anyway go down to my local trailer part supply guy and he tells me I should switch to discs,ok now what do I need to know to make the conversion?can I use the same coupler?how does this reverse solinoid hook in?thanks for any tips guys.
Pete :study:

[John Jones]

The trailer parts guy should be able to walk you through it but it's not that big of a deal.  I won't try to type you through mounting the calipers but it's pretty straight forward.  The coupler/actuator will have to be changed out or modified.  My trailer parts lady ;)  says that most drum actuators can be converted to disc by modifying one part in the actuator.  I'm pretty sure she said there was a little metal disc inside the master cylinder that you poked a hole in the disc with an ice pick and now you have a disc actuator.

The reverse solenoid just goes in the brake line leaving the master cylinder and wires to the tow vehicle backup light circuit.  It prevents the brakes from actuating when one is backing up.  When one shifts to reverse the backup lamp circuit actuates the solenoid blocking the brake line.

[pete]

thanks for the reply John,that sounds  a little clearer,should get them on this weekend,should I replace the brake lines also,they dont leak but the rubber casing is coming off of some of it.

[John Jones]

I would not worry about the casing too much but if they are like most trailer brakes the lines and master cylinder are full of rusty goop and will ruin your nice new calipers.  My trailer lady sold me a nylon tubing brake line kit.  Same tubing that is on Bennett trim tabs.  They never gave me any trouble in 5 years but I also put some rubber hose over them where they touched the trailer to prevent chafing.

I buy all my trailer parts here.
Scroll down a few pages for the brake kits and parts.  They are happy to ship.

http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/assets ... g61-80.pdf

[pete]

Sir, thanks for the info :sunny:

[flounderpounder225]

Just some insight on the master cylinder Mod.  As mentioned, an ice pick or awl will do the trick.  The reason is, a drum brake actuator has a one way check valve that does not allow the fluid to travel back into the master cyl, after you push the pedal and release, this is part of what keeps your shoes in adjustment and close to the brake drums so when you push the pedal (or the pushrod in the case of the actuator) it doesn't go to the floor.  On Disc brakes, the fluid has to travel freely back and forth through the system to allow the piston in the caliper to relieve and move away from the disc when the pressure is released.  Sticking the awl in the end of the actuator where your main brake line attaches puts a hole in this "check valve".  I converted on the last boat I had, still even after the disc conversion, they hung up after about 2 seasons, finally wound up pulling everything off... but that was me, and trailer brakes in saltwater are just a PITA regardless.  Good luck

[wingtime]

If your in Tampa try Redneck trailer supply:

http://www.redneck-trailer.com/index.htm

[John Jones]

Thanks for the explanation flounderpounder225.  I thought it was the check valve but did not want to spout incorrect info.

 

[pete]

thanks guys I'll let you know how it turns out.hopefully done this weekend

[pete]

put my new kodiaks today,not too bad of an install.the hardest part was getting off the old stuff{vise-grips}.when I went to bleed,my master cylinder wasnt pumpimg so I had to order one,be here wednesday.the dealer I went to cut me a fair deal,$420 out the door including bearing buddies, 2 hoses.the solenoid,a new pigtail and adaptor plug.fergusons marine and auto in West Melbourne,Fl,this guy has been around for years and he knew his stuff.

[pete]

Ok,so I get my new master cylinder,install it,fill it will fluid and start pumping the coupler to bleed the system,nothing comes out.So  disconnect the master and bleed it still nothing,take the line off and try some compressed air nothing going thru line it must be blocked with some old gunk.Well cant work on it any more ,will go to parts store and get a new line tomorrow.Then I tried to figure out what I could use to root out line,rigging wire!Took a piece and slowly worked it in and when I tried to blowit out again.....success!this brown gunk came out,flushed it with some clean fluid and got the brakes bled.why cant anything be easy?  :shaking2:

[flounderpounder225]

No one ever said an education was easy or cheap....   good job.
Marc

[slvrlng]

.030 welding wire will work also. Just make a small loop in the end so it doesn't catch on the inside of the line.
I agree working on anything mechanical inevitably some normally stupidly easy thing can hold you up for an hour! Last weekend I changed the plugs on my neighbors truck (05 chevy 1500) I had everything ready to start working on it and went to pull the first plug boot off and that sucker was stuck! 108,000 miles and never been off. I mean it was on there! Had to go back to parts store and get a puller. That worked but it still wasn't easy even with the right tool.Of course when it finally let go, it let go all at once and I sliced my knuckle on the heat shield. It basically took me an hour to change the first plug! Yeah its a pain working on stuff but when your done you have the satisfaction you know its done right!

Oh yeah and those brakes sure are purty!