Another 1978 CCP Project

[RickWPB]

Pardon the dumb question since I'm new to marine body work, but what is "tabbing"?

[gran398]

Basically you are just putting down strips ("tabs") of fiberglass. Matt/roving/cloth etc. Check back through the rebuilds for what the guys have done with regard to the layup schedule, what goes where and when.

[LilRichard]

My .02 is make them larger so you can retab the inside of them the the hull. This makes them far stronger than just tabbing them on the outside.

I think this is a lot of excess (IMO unnecessary) work, because grinding form the inside will be nearly impossible.  Many a great rebuild has been done by glassing premade stingers to the hull at the outside joint.  Look up Wilson Alaya's rebuild on classicmako.com as a reference.

[RickWPB]

I understand that glassing from both sides would probably accomplish a stronger joint, but like Lilrichard says, adding more glass from the inside would require more work and if I can get the same results by just reglassing the outer stringer, then that would probably be the most efficient way to go. Don't get me wrong, if adding more glass to the inside is more effective, then that's what I'll do. My goal is to re-do whatever is necessary to have a strong deck and be able to go out without the worries, and embarrasment, of having soft spots all over the place like I recently have, ever since I bought this vessel. I have had problems like too much water getting into the bilge, the soft spots on the deck that are quite embarrasing when fishing with friends and some of the electrical nightmares, which are quite obvious. I even had problems with the hydraulic steering, which now that everything is open I can find if there is a leak anywhere. I have caught many fish  :fish:  with this boat and partied many times at Peanut Island. Now I wanna be able to be proud of her and her reliability. Like everyone in this forum with their own vessels.   I've read some of the rebuilds that you guys have done and I know that you guys take your boats seriously. And how some of these rebuilds were more effective due to the positive input from guys who have  learned from their own rebuilds and mistakes made or lack of knowledge.

[RickWPB]

It appears that classicmako.com is down. Tried from home and from work.  :(

[gran398]

My .02 is make them larger so you can retab the inside of them the the hull. This makes them far stronger than just tabbing them on the outside.

I think this is a lot of excess (IMO unnecessary) work, because grinding form the inside will be nearly impossible.  Many a great rebuild has been done by glassing premade stingers to the hull at the outside joint.  Look up Wilson Alaya's rebuild on classicmako.com as a reference.

Could be the case on the CCP you reference. The stringers on that model are taller, bigger, heavier, and wider. Just tore down my '73 22-2 (see pics). We didn't have a choice whether or not to tab and glass the inside of the stringers: they were about half-loose from the hull bottom. And completely separated towards the stern.

Take a good flashlight and inspect them through the holes. If they're goods and tight, and don't move, you're probably fine.

[LilRichard]

Here's what I was referring to:

http://classicmako.com/projects/ayala/ayala11.htm

[RickK]

One of the first members here

[RickWPB]

Thanks for the link LilRichard, I love looking at other people's projects. It gives the builder ideas on which route to take in the planning of the whole job. I'm planning on using biaxial cloth and I want to install bulkheads made of 1" Corecell. I know bulkheads will add more strength to the floor and help the stringers. If anyone has any objections to using biaxial or using Corecell please comment. Also, I've seen some rebuilds where the builder adds a half pvc pipe over the keel, doesn't that only collect the water in the forward bilge compartment and route it to the aft compartment so the pump can dispose of it? What about the other compartments? Wouldn't the embedded pvc pipe in the lowest part of the bulkheads be a better deal for removing all water from every section of the bilge? If so what would be the best diameter pvc pipe to use?
I plan on buying the Corecell, unless someone has a better possibly cheaper suggestion,  next weekend from Merrits in Ft. Lauderdale, that's probably where I'll end up getting the 5/8 plywood, unless someone knows a place where the deals are better. I'm used to using West Systems epoxy resin, any better ideas? :silent:

[Capt. Bob]

Also, I've seen some rebuilds where the builder adds a half pvc pipe over the keel, doesn't that only collect the water in the forward bilge compartment and route it to the aft compartment so the pump can dispose of it? What about the other compartments? Wouldn't the embedded pvc pipe in the lowest part of the bulkheads be a better deal for removing all water from every section of the bilge? If so what would be the best diameter pvc pipe to use?

Oh brother. :silent:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6632

Unfortunately this is the edited version.
Sorta like the "R" rated version of A Clockwork Orange.

[marco]

this is a post on this site viewtopic.php?f=8&t=6721
there's a link to http://glassclownboats.com/default.aspx IMHO there is some excellent information and how too's
on boat repair, rebuild.

[LilRichard]

Rick, your material choices are spot on... you should be all set.  

As to the PVC, it not only allows for drainage, but also provides some extra strength (albeit not a huge amount) to the keel (I put two layers of 1808 over mine).

[RickWPB]

The only reason I know these things is from reading all the rebuild topics I have found on this site. I would have preferred s-glass, but it's a little too pricey. I'm definitely going with the bulkheads with 1" id and since the 1/2 PVC down the keel only requires a trip to Home Depot and a pass through the table saw, it won't be a waste of money, nor time.

[LilRichard]

Dunno a ton about S Glass, but I do believe that with a proper rebuild your boat will be stronger than from the factory...

[RickWPB]

S glass is what is used on composite aircraft as the base layers before applying the main cloth of carbon fiber, Kevlar, or whatever the job calls for. E glass, which is what is used on boats is unauthorized on aircraft unless it's an experimental. I'm definitely gonna use biaxial mainly because it's cheaper and because boats aren't subjected to the loads and pressure that an aircraft is. If it was cheaper I would recommend it because of it's superior strength.
Question, I've read in a couple of rebuilds that adding a T-top requires the fuel tank to be moved forward slightly, I have a 40 gal. plastic tank in mine, would I need to move it forward and if so how far?