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Author Topic: 1978 CCP - time for some work  (Read 3904 times)

March 11, 2011, 08:51:59 PM
Reply #30

gran398

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Re: 1978 CCP - time for some work
« Reply #30 on: March 11, 2011, 08:51:59 PM »
How bad are the cuts? Just slightly in the skin in places....and in some places nearly severed? Or both?

March 11, 2011, 09:40:46 PM
Reply #31

TheKid

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Re: 1978 CCP - time for some work
« Reply #31 on: March 11, 2011, 09:40:46 PM »
Looks like a lot of fun.

For the wiring, you most certainly can cut and splice the wire. But, before you do so, see if yo want to route it a different way. It would be easier to pull bare cable in tight spots then a cable with a connector on the end.

For splicing multi conductors I like to space out each connection an inch or two apart using solder and individual heatshrink. Then one larger heat shrink over the whole thing. This eliminates a big bulge. You can even use a little grease in the big shrink edges to hide the internal connections from water intrusion.

You can buy twisted shielded multi-conductor from an electrical supply house if you need more length too.

I'm right there with you. Have all my cables pulled. Started wiring the new bennett 5000 control tonight and plan on finishing up the dash tomorrow.

Have fun.

March 11, 2011, 10:15:13 PM
Reply #32

ncrowe

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Re: 1978 CCP - time for some work
« Reply #32 on: March 11, 2011, 10:15:13 PM »
Quote from: "gran398"
How bad are the cuts? Just slightly in the skin in places....and in some places nearly severed? Or both?

BOTH - but in one spot - the transducer wire is severed almost all the way through 3 or 4 of the wires running through it - I'll splice them and use heat shrink - we'll see if it works after - I really don't want to have to buy another transducer - it's the bronze thru hull - $200 +  :shock:

Thanks for the support guys

March 12, 2011, 12:49:22 AM
Reply #33

RickWPB

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Re: 1978 CCP - time for some work
« Reply #33 on: March 12, 2011, 12:49:22 AM »
Quote
For splicing multi conductors I like to space out each connection an inch or two apart using solder and individual heatshrink. Then one larger heat shrink over the whole thing.
I agree with TheKid, stagger your splices so as not to create a big bulge in your multiconductor. Like TheKid mentioned use solder splices because they'll be the lowest profile splices and use heatshrink that has a built in adhesive so when you shrink it, it seals the splice preventing any water from getting into it. If the original multiconductor has a shield, make sure you splice it as well to prevent any noise from affecting the signal especially if the multiconductor is running side by side with any wires that may be emitting EMF.
Rick WPB 1978 200 CCP

March 13, 2011, 07:10:39 PM
Reply #34

ncrowe

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Re: 1978 CCP - time for some work
« Reply #34 on: March 13, 2011, 07:10:39 PM »
Got everything done - batteries in console, rewired primary bilge pump - have not painted bilge yet - i think that will be next week's project - I'll head out tomorrow afternoon to testrun, should all be great!

April 05, 2011, 09:28:31 PM
Reply #35

ncrowe

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Re: 1978 CCP - time for some work
« Reply #35 on: April 05, 2011, 09:28:31 PM »
Have been using the boat alot lately - not really caring about the looks department, sure it would be nice to have a better looking boat, but this girl does the job and does it well.

QUESTION - looking to pull out splashwell and replace with flat floor, have the 3/4 coosa - does anyone know the thickness of the floor? This will be more of a temporary fix as I'm going to clos ein the transom and add bracket, but between now and then would love to have no splashwell  :D

I'll post pics here again real soon of progress - love the relocated batteries, changed ride a little and added space

 


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