You reached the limit of pages to see for today

Author Topic: How to convert I/O To Outboard on a 1980 22.2 ff  (Read 813 times)

September 13, 2009, 11:58:34 AM
Read 813 times

sebas54

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 14
How to convert I/O To Outboard on a 1980 22.2 ff
« on: September 13, 2009, 11:58:34 AM »
HI, I have a 1980 22' Aquasport. My engine is an I/O and I have been putting lots of money into it since I bought it. I think I found a great deal 2002 Mercury optimax 200hp with controls and bracket for $1200. The engine has been setting for about a year but the owner says that the engine is in great condition with low hours. All the gas was drain prior to storage. Is this a good deal?

I remember reading posts about converting an I/O with lots of pics but I cannot find it. Can anyone please provide me with helpful links on how this is done.

I have never done anything like this but I think I will be able to. The fiberglass part I will hire someone to do.

What do I need to do besides remove the I/O, put the barcket on, and install the controls.

Would it be worth it to do this on a 1980 boat; everything seems solid, the floors hull, and transom.

Also How would I check the transom for rott without drilling?

Will this affect handling?  


Thanks

September 14, 2009, 12:57:55 PM
Reply #1

Capt. Bob

  • ***
  • Information Offline
  • Global Moderator
  • Posts: 6446
Re: How to convert I/O To Outboard on a 1980 22.2 ff
« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2009, 12:57:55 PM »
This is the one I remember. http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2450

I'm sure there's more. This one turned out real sweet. :thumright:

PS.. The slot redfish is sweet too. :wink:
]
Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"

September 14, 2009, 05:56:49 PM
Reply #2

slvrlng

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 1817
Re: How to convert I/O To Outboard on a 1980 22.2 ff
« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2009, 05:56:49 PM »
Get a rubber mallet and go around the transom and tap, any weak places will have a hollow sound. If you find soft spots mark and drill those, just make sure to use a depth guage so you don't go through. And of course do this from the inside out. Then seal the holes with epoxy. I don't think the advice on iboats was the best. I don't think it will hurt your handling at all. It should be faster even hanging it on a bracket. Check out this 19-6 that Gausebuilt did I would think your hull with the extra three feet would be fine.
http://gausebuiltboats.com/index.cfm/pa ... age_key/36
Lewis
       1983 222 Osprey "Slipaway"
       1973 19-6 "Emily Lynn"
      

September 21, 2009, 10:26:32 PM
Reply #3

bdtsr

  • Information Offline
  • Posts: 93
Re: How to convert I/O To Outboard on a 1980 22.2 ff
« Reply #3 on: September 21, 2009, 10:26:32 PM »
$1200 for a 2002 200hp Opti and bracket is a steal! The motor alone is worth about $4k. 2002 also will work with the current Smartcraft gauges. It should push your boat at a good 22 to 25 knots and burn about 10gph doing it. Closing the hole is not hard providing you have a solid transom to begin with. Remove all the i/o parts, sand the hole with 50 grit very well, grind the outer area of the hole inside and out to about 6 inches from the edge of the hole (should be able to lay two layers of 1708 in this area and not come out past the gelcoated area), cut plywood filler peices, cover filler peices with resin (do not use resin with wax), mix resin and high density filler (West System) into a putty, insert filler peices one at a time packing them with filler putty, use stainless screws to secure one filler peice to the next, after all peices are in smooth putty around edges and let cure, grind area smooth and cover with two layers of 1708, let cure, grind and sand smooth, fill  with 3M yellow filler (underwater stuff), sand smooth and refill if needed, spray area with gelcoat and finish off. Make sure you spray enough so you don't sand back through it. You may even want to spray the entire transom if it's faded. Sounds like a lot of work but it's not too bad. We did a 23 Seacraft earlier this year.

If your boat is solid and you plan on keeping it,all this work will be worth it.

The boat will tend to turn a little sharper because the engine is set back from the boat. This moves the pivot point back. You will also need to mount the bracket and engine higher to allow for the water coming out from under the boat. Figure about 2 inches higher for each 12 inches back.
Keep us posted.
1978 Aquasport 200 CCP 1990 225hp Yamaha
1990 Bayliner 2302 Trophy 2000 225hp Optimax
1999 Bayliner 1950 Capri Bowrider Merc 3.0 liter I/O
1986 Arrowglass CC w/1986 Evinrude 115hp
3 Kawasaki Tandem Sport Jet skis
1993 Seadoo XP
1988 Yamaha WR500

 


SimplePortal 2.3.5 © 2008-2012, SimplePortal