Teak question?

[zerorulz21]

what should i use to apply the teak oil???

[slvrlng]

I just use a paper towel cause Im cheap!

[zerorulz21]

what would be  ideal???paint brush, roller, rag???

[Capt. Bob]

Since I no longer use teak oil, I'll field this.

If your teak is nice and smooth, a rag will work (as well as a paper towel) for applying an even coat. Staining pads (think Home Depot) will also work nice. They're like a terri cloth.
If it's like the factory teak on an Aqua then you may need to brush it on so as to prevent the cloth from snagging on the rough finish. I use a brush an a product called Teak Guard.

[No Class]

Sikkens-Cetol marine 3 coats. Scuff between with a scotch brite pad. Good for at least a full season in full sun!

[zerorulz21]

thanks for the advice, project for the weekend!

[ldeal]

Capt. Bob,

How is the Teak Guard holding up for you?  Also has anbody here tried a product called Teaque?  I love the look of teak oil but it is a lot of work to keep up.  I am affraid that varnish may be too slick on my gunnels!

Thanks

[Capt. Bob]

Capt. Bob,

How is the Teak Guard holding up for you?  Also has anbody here tried a product called Teaque?  I love the look of teak oil but it is a lot of work to keep up.  I am affraid that varnish may be too slick on my gunnels!

Thanks

I really don't know what to say, so......
I find it easy to use, fast drying (for multiple coats) and a snap to clean up when you're done. By all rights, this product should not work but it does.
If you clean your teak and get it looking good (not talking sanding here) you will be pleasently suprised when you apply this stuff. I usually use three (3) coats. Additional coats result in a higher gloss. In low traffic areas (hatches,trim)  it lasts a long time between  
refurbishing. I have added two "step pads" on each side of the gunnels to prevent slipping when entering from the dock. These pads have teak strips and they do require a higher frequency of care. They are however very small and it "ain't no big deal".

The best part about this stuff is that when you start to see wear,you just brush the area (or spot) with a little steel wool or brass wool/brush and recoat that spot. I really like the look of varnished teak but when it starts to peal (and it will) restoration is more work intensive to maintain the look and nothing IMHO looks better than golden teak oil on freshly cleaned teak. Problem is, that lasts about a day here in north Fla. and about 15 minutes in the Keys.

When you see this stuff, you will say to yourself no f....n way will this work. It's colored water and not even nice looking colored water. I know I did when I first discovered it outside of the Miami International Boat Show 20+ years ago. You know, where the guys that can't afford a booth inside end up.
It shouldn't work but it does, at least in both north and south Fla. Keys included.
Try it. If you don't like it, it cleans right off with a good teak cleaner and you can try something else.

Good luck.

[kaptainkoz]

Im right there with No Class... Sikkens Cetol. Its excellent. I used it last year and my teak still looks awesome. I did the rest of my teak a few weeks ago. I used the 2 part cleaner, then about 3 coats Cetol, lightly sanding in between coats... see for yourself... keep in mind that this is 31 year old teak!





It may cost a bit for the quart (around $35) but the quart goes a long way

[ldeal]

Looks good KaptainKoz!  I just still prefer the flatness of oiled teak.

[Plumbobber]

Apply with a rag always worked form me and varnish any area that gets any use. I use to varnish my 1966 Chris with a light coat every year and it always looke fantastic.