New Guy w/questions

[Tailgunner]

First and foremost, thank you for this site. I have been looking for a site like this for 2 years now. Google didn't find it but somebody on a newsgroup told me about it. THANK YOU!

Anyway to tell from the hull number exactly what model of Aquasport I have? I was told that it's a 21-9 from 1973. However I have yet to see that as an actual model. I think it's more likely a 22-2. I do know that it's a 1973 from the title.

I am using this boat heavily. Not trailering except twice a year. Once in and once out. I was told these old Aquasports don't like trailers too much.

My deck is soft from a tow bit somebody installed years ago and it pulled the deck from the stringers. Add to that some water and it needs help.

To see what I am up against:
http://www.nbrigham.com/boat/index00.htm

I have repowered with a 125 Merc and built a new console. Next I want to tackle the deck. I hope to keep this boat a LONG time.

[steved]

It's definitely a 22.2. Looks like you have plenty to keep you busy in terms of work on the boat. But the end result will be worth it - look at the photo gallery on the site and you will see some pretty amazing efforts.  And don't hesitate to post specific questions. Someone will have been there- done that already and will give you the info you are looking for.  Welcome aboard!

[pbailey]

Never heard about it not being good to trailer.  We have a 1975 19'-6" and it stay's on a trailer.  We're pretty sure that where it came from, it sat in the water.

If it is a fact that it's not good to trailer them, I would like to hear more specifics.

pbailey

[Tailgunner]

Never heard about it not being good to trailer.  We have a 1975 19'-6" and it stay's on a trailer.  We're pretty sure that where it came from, it sat in the water.

If it is a fact that it's not good to trailer them, I would like to hear more specifics.

pbailey

Local boat builder said it was a flexible hull and that to do a lot of trailering would beat it up. He was talking specifcally of the "older" Aquasports. Of course he also told me that replacing the deck was not worth the effort.....

[steved]

I think the impact of trailering on any boat, not just Aquasports or older Aquasports, depends on the quality of the trailer and the care taken by the boat owner.  Most of the Aquasport owners on the site certainly trailer their boats - there are relatively few who keep their boats in the water. The hulls of the older Aquasports are incredibly strong and the flexibility is an asset, not a liability.  Of course, bashing the thing around is NOT going to help.

I also think that the quality of trailers today is enormously better than 30 years ago. So, if you are talking about trailering your 1973 boat on a 1973 trailer, I think you have an issue.  On the other hand, if you have a newer trailer and maintain it, should not be a problem

In addition, the advantages of keeping the boat on the trailer as opposed to constantly in the water - bottom paint issues, eventual water infiltration, ease of routine maintenance, etc. - are multiple.

[pbailey]

I was just asking because I thought that there maybe something going on that I hadn't heard about.

I have a 1993 aluminium I beam with two bunks that are pretty close to the main stringers in the boat. (I checked after this thread started)  I think I will shift the bunks inboard about 1-2" to get the bunks directlly under the stringers.

pbailey

[Tailgunner]

Steved is right on the money with his reply. The flexiblity of the AS hull is an asset. I also think his remarks about trailers is also right on. I have a roller trailer which is not a good trailer for any boat IMO. I looked into converting to  a bunk trailer but it would almost be cheaper to buy new.

My boat stays in the water for several reasons. The main one being I have to beg friends to get it pulled as none of my vehicles can tow anything. This too will change as soon as I sell my Harley. I also enjoy rowing out to my mooring every morning for the exercise.

[Anonymous]

Steved is right on the money with his reply. The flexiblity of the AS hull is an asset. I also think his remarks about trailers is also right on. I have a roller trailer which is not a good trailer for any boat IMO. I looked into converting to  a bunk trailer but it would almost be cheaper to buy new.

My boat stays in the water for several reasons. The main one being I have to beg friends to get it pulled as none of my vehicles can tow anything. This too will change as soon as I sell my Harley. I also enjoy rowing out to my mooring every morning for the exercise.

SELL THE HARLEY!!!!  THAT JUST AIN'T RIGHT.  

pbailey

[pbailey]

Steved is right on the money with his reply. The flexiblity of the AS hull is an asset. I also think his remarks about trailers is also right on. I have a roller trailer which is not a good trailer for any boat IMO. I looked into converting to  a bunk trailer but it would almost be cheaper to buy new.

My boat stays in the water for several reasons. The main one being I have to beg friends to get it pulled as none of my vehicles can tow anything. This too will change as soon as I sell my Harley. I also enjoy rowing out to my mooring every morning for the exercise.

We converted my buddies roller trailer to bunks for his Proline for about 200.00 bucks.

4 brackets
8 u-bolts
16 through bolts
4 2x10x14 PT
a little carpet

Angle for timbers were measured and precut and preassembled.  One side was done at a time while boat was jacked and blocked up off trailer.  The angle for the timber increases a little as it moves from stern to bow.  The angle was cut to fit the stern, and a belt sander (40grit) was used to blend the angle as it moved forward.  Note, be very careful not to get your hands between the hull and anything while working with the boat jacked up.  You could also do this with your boat in the water if you take measurements before hand.

Took about 3 hrs.  But I am a carpenter by trade, so this stuff comes easy to me.

If you do it, be sure to check the crown on the lumber.  When putting the timbers together, reverse the crowns and temp nail them to hold.  Set boat on timbers and let the boat settle on them for a couple of days and the boat will sag the timbers to the shape of the hull.  Wetting the lumber will aid the process.  Then through bolt for added strength.  If you put the timbers together with their crowns up, it will create a high spot that likely won't sag to shape.  

We used 2x10, but you will have to check your brackets and the fender on the trailer to make sure that a 2x10 will get the bunk high enough to clear things and still have enough plate left on the bunk bracket for a good connection.  You may need to use a 2x12.  I had to use 2x12 and rip it down a little for a replacemnet bunk for my AS.

Good luck

pbailey

[John Jones]

I had a local boat repair "expert" tell me that my '78 was filled with foam from front to back.     Some people talk just because they can.  Mine has been on a trailer most of it's life and is no worse for wear.

[Tailgunner]

Some people talk just because they can.

You owe me a keyboard. I just spewed coffee all over it. That's a good one.

[Anonymous]

Can you comment on performance of the boat with 125hp, such as holeshot, cruising speed, economy?

[Tailgunner]

Can you comment on performance of the boat with 125hp, such as holeshot, cruising speed, economy?

My average cruising speed at 4,000 RPMs is around 27mph. Fully loaded with 60 gallons of fuel on board. The boat jumps up on a plane rather quickly but this is due to hydrofoil I installed. Before I installed the hydrofoil it still got up on a plane decently. Economy? It's a 2 stroke 125 Merc Saltwater. According to my GPS I get around 300 miles on a tank of gas. That translates to around 6MPG. YMMV