Bob's Machine Jackplate or Porta-Bracket

[fm69912]

I am possibly fully or partially closing in the transom on an 84' 222. I currently have a 6" Bob's Machine Jackplate but I'm might go to the 12" jackplate or go to the Porta-Bracket setup. My only concern is adding that much weight further back on my boat with the Porta-Bracket. I already sit pretty low (slightly above the scuppers). I will have a 200 Yamaha HPDI (475 lbs) hanging on the back. Also I am pretty mechanically inclined, I have a body shop and am thinking of doing the transom work myself.

Any comments welcomed!!

Thanks in advanced

[Mad Dog]

FM,

For what it is worth, I make my living counting beans and have been rebuilding a '75 222.  I recored and closed in the transom, am putting in a new sole and basically replacing every piece of wood AS built into it.  So, if you are a D.I.Y. guy you can do it yourself if you are willing to commit the time and energy.

As for jack plates, porta brackets and fixed brackets that's going to depend on how much of the transom you close in.  A complete closure pretty much requires that you use a bracket of some kind just so the engine can be tilted all the way up.  I don't know if a 12" jack plate will allow it.

My plan is to put on a fixed bracket with a 6" jackplate.  Overall I'll have a 30" set back.  The fixed bracket adds some flotation as opposed to the porta bracket but the porta bracket is shorter and will let you lift the engine before you tilt it.

To compensate for the added leverage on the bracket I have moved the fuel tank forward,  put the batteries under the console and moved the console forward a few inches.  I have seen many 222 rebuilds that with this configuration that float nicely and still self bale.

If your boat is already riding low on the stern you may want to check your weight distribution.  Something doesn't seem right if your scuppers are under water.  

MD  

[fm69912]

I have a full height dual station fold down tower from Quailty T-Tops, which I am going to get rid of and go to a regular T-Top. I'm hoping that will drop some weight. I already moved the fuel tank forward about 2.5 ft and both boat batteries are up under the center console. When I had the floors and stringers re-done, they used 5/8" plywood glassed on both sides for the floor for an approx thickness of 7/8" wilth wood, glass & gel-coat. The stringers were foam filled. Someone else did the stringers and floor when I didn't have time then. Hoping to do transom work in about 1-2 weeks for under $ 1k maybe?

[Mad Dog]

Replacing the tower should help some, obviously.  If I had the cash I would go with the porta bracket for weight and leverage reasons.  

A 1" thick sole is a lot of weight.  1/4" of glass a lot more than my sources are recommending.  I am going with 1/2" marine ply.  Sealed the underside with two coats of epoxy resin (24 fl oz.).  Supported the seams with frames & butt joints.  Sealing the top with one coat of resin, one layer of 9 oz biax wetted out and Kiwi Grip non-slip coating.  

Building up the transom will add some weight too.  I cut out the inside skin of the transom and pulled the rotted plywood off the outer skin to preserve that part of the hull.  I recored with three layers of 1/2" marine ply bonded with epoxy/woodflour putty.  I rebuilt the inner skin with 4 layers of 17 oz biax glass and epoxy resin.  I am guessing the plywood weighed in at 25 to 30 pounds.  Probably less than a gallon of resin (4 or 5 pounds).  I also added a transom bulkhead to help take the stress of an engine bracket.  That was two more sheets of ply and a half gallon of resin (guestimate).

So, 5 sheets of 1/2" ply @ $65 / sheet; 1 1/2 gallon resin/hardener $75 and 10 yards of 17 oz biax $65;  Misc disposables $100.  Approximate Total = $565.  

Porta Bracket $1,900
Control Cables    ??

Overall project $2,500 to $3,000.  Rough guess.  Check my photobucket link for illustrations of the transom repair.  

MD  

[Undertow2]

IMHO - I have had both.  If you can get your set-back issues and trim clearance issues settled with the jack plate, do so.  The Portas effect the performance in ways I didn't like.  Plus, they really stress the transom.  Even the Gause builts I have looked at have cracked gel near the cap on the tranny, always in the same place and pattern.
At this point I would steer towards a positive flotation armstrong type bracket with the jack plate...again, IMHO

[slippery73]

The porta might stress the transom more however any bracket type will add additional stress to the transom, the flotation bracket with the swim platform would be the best bet for a transom thats not rebuilt because of the additional support across the transom. However, if you plan to rebuild the transom it shouldn't be an issue if done correctly. If gauses are cracking in the stern area its because of deficient design or inadequate support for the bracket, they also put 200-350hp four strokes on them. I remember some of the first boats gause started producing, you could walk on the gunnels and you could hear the glass cracking under your feet. They sure have come a long way since then, but as with anything, new technology means different build techniques. If you do plan to rebuild the transom make sure its done correctly. I strongly recommend the liquid pour transom, its insanely strong 2-3 times that of plywood, and 7-8 times stronger than pvc foam, and its easy.

[Mike Answeeney]

I agree with Slippery.  My poured transom is SOLID.  I also love my Port Bracket!  I have a 1973 222, 175hp two stroke, fuel tank moved forward & T-Top.  I can slowly motor through about 12 inches of water.

[The Bear]

PORTA-BRACKET!

[Mike Answeeney]

Well maybe it's mounted just a little the port side?????  

Without spell check, I'm an ... ediot!   :)

[Marcq]

Well maybe it's mounted just a little the port side?????  

Without spell check, I'm an ... ediot!   :)

    I was wondering wtf is a port bracket  

Marc..

[reelitin]

When you guys talk about the poured transom, what foam are you using?  I assume 2 part 8 lb foam from somewhere like FCI?
Am I assuming correctly?  Is ther ea link to a rebuild where this was done?
thanks

[Marcq]

When you guys talk about the poured transom, what foam are you using?  I assume 2 part 8 lb foam from somewhere like FCI?
Am I assuming correctly?  Is ther ea link to a rebuild where this was done?
thanks

Hi reelitin and welcome. It is not foam, it's seacast, more info here
http://transomrepair.com/zk/

Marc..

[slippery73]

I used Nidacore transom pour, FGCI sells Arjay. They are all the same type material, seacast is much more expensive though.

[Marcq]

I used Nidacore transom pour, FGCI sells Arjay. They are all the same type material, seacast is much more expensive though.

Interesting slippery, looks like a good product, this guy seemed to like it

http://www.fiberglassics.com/howto/nida/

Marc..