pictures of thru hulls for livewell plumbing

[love2fish]

Does anyone have any pictures of their livewell plumbing set-ups? I'm thinking I'm going to go with the Groco STH-750 3/4" inlet thru hull to a ball valve, strainer,  to atleast an 1100GPH bilge to the 40gallon livewell. For the drain I was going to use 1 1/4 tubing to a 1 1/4 ball valve to the Groco STH- 1250 thru hull. I'm hoping someone out there has pictures of how far off the keel they have mounted their thru hulls, and if anyone has any thgoughts on the brands/specific parts I plan to use.  
Thanks

[John Jones]

This is all I have.

It was an "in progress" picture.  I made a putty with epoxy and filler and put down a piece of 1/2" plywood for reinforcement. After the epoxy cured I cut the hole with a hole saw thru the plywood and the hull.  Loaded everything up with 5200 and snugged it down finger tight so as to not squeeze out all of the 5200.  Wait a day, then tighten the nut fully.  

Not shown is another water pickup I installed later.  I wanted lots of water flow for the bait well and when on plane I got more water than a 1-1/2" gravity drain could handle.  I put the second pickup in backwards, in other words, with the screen facing the rear and connected the baitwell drain to that.  Now when I'm running the second "pickup" pulls a suction and sucks enough water to prevent the baitwell from overflowing.  If you open the baitwell while on plane it sounds like a continious commode flush.  

Also not shown is the raw water washdown pump.  Surflow Bait Sentry pumps have a plugged connection on the pump inlet side so you can connect something else to the water pickup without having to put in a tee fitting.  You can see the plug on the top of the pump.  I connected the washdown pump inlet hose there.

I know the valve should be before the elbow but I had issues with clearance height and figured that was still better than no valve.  BTW, degrease and "paint" the bronze with epoxy and it doesn't turn green.

[RickK]

This is what my 230 had for a supply to the livewell.

Notice that someone had put a "y" into the line and tried to use it for a washdown too.  The pump didn't work anymore and I wanted a real washdown pump so I tore it out and replaced it.  I didn't need a livewell on this boat (more for camping than fishing) so I bypassed the plumbing to the livewell.  The plumbing's still there and can be hooked back up if needed.  The black hose in the bottom pic is the "plumbing".

[LilRichard]

This is what my 230 had for a supply to the livewell.

Notice that someone had put a "y" into the line and tried to use it for a washdown too.  The pump didn't work anymore and I wanted a real washdown pump so I tore it out and replaced it.  I didn't need a livewell on this boat (more for camping than fishing) so I bypassed the plumbing to the livewell.  The plumbing's still there and can be hooked back up if needed.  The black hose in the bottom pic is the "plumbing".

If I may make one suggestion, that clear hose is NOT rated for below the waterline - I would go with a wire reinforced hose meant for that.  It does look like you double clamped it though, right?

[RickK]

Yup, double clamped.  I wonder why it's not rated for below waterline?  It was rated for "Drinking water" line - where else would you run that but below deck?

[LilRichard]

You could run that for bilge pump, freshwater tank (washdown), etc... but there is a difference between "below deck" and "below waterline".  You want the super duty hose for anything on a fitting that could sink the boat if it failed.

[RickK]

Ahhhh, so all I would need to replace is from the thru-hull to the strainer on the raw water washdown pump to the left.

[LilRichard]

Correct.