Teak

[DOCREED]

I cleaned all the little pieces of teak and oiled them.  1 week later it looked the same as before I oiled it.  I used some West marine cleaner and oil.  Was that my error? Or, is it the Florida sun
Back in the old days, I had a Bertram and when I oiled the teak it looked good for most of the summer.

Any ideas?

[GoneFission]

You may need several applications to get the oil soaked into the teak.  Once it is dry and gray, it takes a while to get that golden color and look back.  Another option is sanding and 2-3 coats of UV inhibited varnish - it will last longer than oil and gives a nice look, but different from oil. 

I varnished mine; you can see some results in the photo gallery:

http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/member.php?uid=282&username=gonefission

See ya on the water!

[slippery73]

Spar varnish will hold up better than the oil will, unless you want to oil it monthly. Another option if you dont want to have the high gloss of the spar varnish is to make a rubbed on finish. Equal parts of spar varnish, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits will give you a nice finish you cal either brush or wipe on with a rag. Its an old woodworkers finish that really brings out the color in the wood. I would recommend mixing up a small batch and doing some test pieces first to make sure it cures right over the teak oil before you go wild with it.

[Capt. Bob]

Any ideas?

Teakguard
It shouldn't work but it does. Water based, applied with foam brush, easy clean up. No way will it last but it does.
I discovered this product many years ago outside the Miami Beach Convention Center during the Boat Show. Clean your teak and apply at least three coats and you're golden. It has held up well in the sun and unbelievable when your boat is protected (covered/housed). If you are addicted to sanding teak then varnish is the best way to feed your habit.
You can touch up spots that wear/darken faster than others by cleaning with bronze wool and reapplying. Relatively inexpensive and if you don't like it, I've found that teak cleaner removes it.
Just a thought.

[John Jones]

Thanks for the tip Capt. Bob.  Not only do I still have all the original teak on the AQ but about 6 years ago the wife decided she would buy a teak patio furniture set.  Not exposed to direct sun on the north side of the house but it's not covered either so it turns black from mildew.  I'll try anything.

[GoneFission]

Teakguard is good stuff, but requires the same number of coats as varnish - as other said - depends on what you want it to look like - gloss or satin or oil?  Speaking of oil, be careful with linseed oil on wood that is exposed to high humidity - mildew and mold feed on the organics in linseed oil and can turn teak black.  All the name-brand teak oils (and varnishes as well) include an anti-fungal agent to keep mildew under control.  

Good luck!

[Capt. Bob]

Teakguard is good stuff, but requires the same number of coats as varnish - as other said - depends on what you want it to look like - gloss or satin or oil?  Speaking of oil, be careful with linseed oil on wood that is exposed to high humidity - mildew and mold feed on the organics in linseed oil and can turn teak black.  All the name-brand teak oils (and varnishes as well) include an anti-fungal agent to keep mildew under control.  

Good luck!

True about the number of coats needed, fact is you can add more if you're bored but... it drys faster than varnish and is easier to remove if you choose to. Like anything else, it turns with age and use but it seems much easier to extend its useful life as opposed to varnish. Most importantly to me is that it is much more forgiving than varnish in the hands of a somewhat lazy teak owner like myself.
Good Luck Doc with whatever you choose.

PS..... I covet your craft. It must be LOA envy!

[DOCREED]

Thanks


LOA envy----good one