full transom?

[71flatback]

Should i go with at full transom? I like the look, but don't like how far a porta-bracket put the motor off the stern. What do yall think?

[slippery73]

Makes for a lot more useable space in my opinion. Also more seaworthy, no worries about getting swamped.

[ddd222]

much more space i agree, but not necessarily more sea worthy. The redesign of drains and scuppers has to be well thought out. Imagine a wave or wake big enough to breach even a closed transom? A euro or notched transom can run out 100 gallons w/ one blast of the throttle. In this rare scenario, a bracketed transom would be much more vulnerable. After thinking about it a transom door like many new boats have would help, but.....
     Nonetheless a topic i'm slightly knowledgeable from reading here and mako.com, and an idea i toyed around w/ on my aquasport. Great idea and benefits, but besides that rare dangerous scenario, most people who have closed off had major performance complaints in boats smaller than 25". And the further back the power was set, the more drastic the difference. Do some reading over there or i can explain further, but i think you'd benefit more hearing the lengths a few guys have gone to to make it right

[LilRichard]

DDD- I think you might be referring more to the 22' Makos out there with brackets... I have read quite a bit about their troubles too.  However the "industry standard" (if you will) for 222s has been closing the transom and adding a porta bracket.  I have talked to a ton of folks (private and professional) who have done it, have been on a few of their boats, and all have had good results.  Granted a few things have to be done to offset the change in CG (tank moved forward, batteries to center console, etc) but generally the 222s work well with a closed transom.

[Capt. Bob]

DDD- I think you might be referring more to the 22' Makos out there with brackets... I have read quite a bit about their troubles too.  However the "industry standard" (if you will) for 222s has been closing the transom and adding a porta bracket.  I have talked to a ton of folks (private and professional) who have done it, have been on a few of their boats, and all have had good results.  Granted a few things have to be done to offset the change in CG (tank moved forward, batteries to center console, etc) but generally the 222s work well with a closed transom.

I tend to agree. While I haven't closed the transom (someday) I have moved the batteries to the console and sealed off the factory live well. I mounted a 17 gal. well on the full bracket but don't use it when dragging Stretch 30s in the Gulf. I was leary when I made this mod back in 96 but have had good results and never regret doing it. The full bracket (with swim ladder underneath and kicker plate on starboard side) has also given me a little more fishing room when in the bay and works great when we were diving. I gets my recomendation on a 222 CCP and up. My 40+mph with my 96 Rude 200 is fine by me.

[GoneFission]

If I was re-doing the transom on my 222CCP, I would opt to close it in and put the outboard on a bracket.  I might even consider a transom door, but that's a different story...  

Note that Aquasport inboard and inboard/outboad models all had closed transoms, so that variant is well-tested.  The final versions of the CCPs were offered with closed transoms and outboards on brackets - and the hull shape really did not change that much from the original.  It just seems like a natural evolution of the model.  

10-4 also on moving the batteries, but you've got to move them anyway if you close the transom, and up under the console makes sense.   :fish:

See ya on the water!

[damnitbadger]

Here's my 222 CCP

[LilRichard]

Tis very nice...

[ddd222]

Guys, on this issue i would love to be proved quite wrong! That my worries were for nothing! I love the closed off transom, the extra room behind the helm, the platform the big brackets offer for diving/swimming. And more importantly for me, a chance to re-design the entire bilge/livewell area for actually replacing things as they age, access to wiring, hoses, plumbing.
    I've seen some brackets put on over here(and was corrected on some factory brackets) but very few detail pro's/cons before or after. My knowledge mostly comes from the mako guys as they detail every step, w/ no bs, most dissapointed. Most from 21-23 models. I also recalled perhaps 2 model years where the 23 came w/ a factory bracket, or maybe the 22'. But no lie most adding after the fact had major issues, so perhaps there were some design changes were made for the bracketed models.
      That being said, and if adding a bracket to an Aquasport has very few performance issues, then MAYBE the slightly deeper V hull a 22ccp has as opposed to the 22' mako, is better suited to a bracket? I was thinking that if the mako 254 or 261 are better retro-fitted w/ a bracket than their smaller siblings, perhaps its due to a deeper vee?
      BTW badger, your boat looks identical to my vision for my boat, except its listing in that picture, is the boat on a sandbar in that picture?

[DOCREED]

This is my 250 CCP with a bracket.  The 250 has a little wider beam and that may be why it can handle the increased moment arm of the engines hanging outboard.

This boat is much quieter than my old boat with a single 150 merc.  
The factory scuppers are, in my opinion, small however.