ideas on rubrail?

[Shine]

Im thinking of doing something special with the hull/deck to show it off.  This boat will have a perfect clean radius hull/deck - seamless, so I hate to cover that up with a big bulky rubrail.  

Maybe just a stainless steal profile.  Any ideas?

[JimCt]

Problem with a stainless rail is it'll get a dent sooner or later.  A rub rail is a consumable in a way... it's there to take the insults of a bad cross-wind landing at a dock and generally absorb what would otherwise hit the boat.  My thinking for my 240 & 22-2 will be to go with a flexible vinyl conformal rail with a white vinyl insert.  Probably have to be black rub-rail but there is dark blue out there too I saw.

Off & on over the last couple of years discussions have wandered into the possibility of having a mill-run of "classic" AS rub rail made up.  The run would have to be about 500' from what I recall.  Although we have some boats here under reconstruction which might avail themselves of the classic rub rail, I think it would take a while to consume 500'.  I'd buy some for my boats but that would only speak for about 115'.  Have no idea what the cost would be but if there's significant interest out there, it might be worth getting some quotes.

[RickK]

I like the look and durability of the 5/8" rope insert I have on the rubrail of the 170.  The only thing that ticked me off is that after a couple years it "shrunk" about 6", even though I had anchored it at the ends with screws (I guess not enough).
Jims right, you need something to take the impact of a dock besides the hull.

[Shine]

I have catalogs with dozens of profiles of extruded rubrail, what I am contemplating is a seamless (more beautiful, less functional) hull to deck joint.

The only picture I could find quickly is of this wood boat, but you can see how the hull and deck just look like one piece.  Super clean and shows the lines off.  The sheer line and entry of the 222 flatback are very pretty and with the new deck we made (more camber) I was thinking of trying something different.  If the boat is kept on a lift or on a trailer, the stainless extrusion may work (I can get solid stainless so as to avoid dents).

[Shine]

This the bow profile (there is some junk on it in this picture).  

[JimCt]

If that's the look you want, go for it!  
Keep in mind the first bonk against a dock will require a repair.

[Shine]

If that's the look you want, go for it!  
Keep in mind the first bonk against a dock will require a repair.

good thing I know where to get repair stuffs  

I know what you mean, I just donr like the clunky look of most rubrails - i will look more :)

[RickK]

Pretty sharp edge - gonna need something thin.  Looks good though.

[billh1963]

Isn't there some risk of cracking along the cap/hull seam when the hull twists? Although the cap and hull are now "bonded" together they are still two separate pieces. Is that a risk?

[Shine]

Isn't there some risk of cracking along the cap/hull seam when the hull twists? Although the cap and hull are now "bonded" together they are still two separate pieces. Is that a risk?

They are not two pieces anymore.  The deck (what used to be a cap) is glassed to the hull with epoxy and several layer of biaxial fiberglass.  Its actually a lot stronger than a traditional "shoe box" fit of a cap/deck.

This boat is now "one piece", which is to say every piece is glassed together, there are no separate parts held together with adhesives or screws/bolts.  

Its true monocoupe construction.

I will admit that if I had had a cap in decent shape enought to rebuilt - I would have gone though all the trouble of making my own deck :!:   I still woudl have glassed it to the hull though - very strong

[warthog5]

Stainless can dent if you use the "Hollow" back.

The "D" shaped will not, as it's solid. Ir is more expensive and is on;y available in 16ft length's that I can find.

Any of it will have to come truck freight so the shipping is expensive.

The last I bought  2pcs of "D" shaped 3/4in was $75ea and $50ea for shipping.

They took the 2 pieces and sandwiched them between 2 -1 X 3's and used that super box tape to tape them together.

[GoneFission]

Maybe I'm old-fashioned, but I like a rubrail that absords impact rather than transferring it.  One of my favorites is the rubber/vinyl with the rope insert - it just works so well.  Yes, if you are building a showboat that will rarely see pilings or docks, anything will work.  But a real boat needs a real rubrail.  

I have used a nice piece of varnished 1x1 oak or cypress in the past with a stainless strip attached - that worked pretty well to absorb shock and look nice too...   But some boats don't look right with that size rubrail....

Go with what works!

[JimCt]

On the other hand, rail protection can add both beauty and a sense of seriousness to the mission...



Bad landing is the dock's problem.