1974 Aquasport 19-6 - What changes would you make?

[billh1963]

I've bought Sam's boat and am making up my restoration plans. It looks like I'll be replacing the deck, transom, and painting the boat.

I'm buying the boat to fish in the rivers and sounds around Beaufort, SC. As such, I would like to make the boat "fishing friendly". Any ideas on what can be done to a 19-6 to make it a shallow water fishing machine...baitwell, fishboxes since the deck will be replaced, raised bow platform, etc.?

Also, is the 19-6 self bailing? There have been a lot of advances in scuppers and such since the boat was built. I would like to build the boat with a sealed deck and modern scuppers so that I could leave the boat in the water for a week at a time without worrying about rain. Is the stock 19-6 deck above the waterline or would I need to build up the deck?

Also, if I closed in the transom and used a bracket would the weight make the boat sit lower? With a closed in transom what would you add...bait station, sink, etc.?

All opinions invited!

[scott_gunn]

Yes, the deck should be self bailing unless you have too much weight.

I have a 19'6 and this is what I want to do to it:

-Porta bracket with a 130 ETEC.  The extra weight of the bracket would be offset by going from an old V6 to a modern V4 which probably has just about as much power.
- Lenco Troll N Tabs
- Close the transom, put flip up seats in each rear corner (with storage underneath) and a baitwell in the middle of the closed transom.
- Swap out the cooler seat with a leaning post

[billh1963]

Those are some good ideas. You don't think that the baitwell at the end of the transom would add too much weight?

[scott_gunn]

Yes, when it was full I do think it would be too much weight.  But the right place for a baitwell is in the rear.  Up front the bait gets banged around too much.  While underway, the trim tabs would compensate but at rest it may add too much weight.  No way to know for sure without trying!  You could always lower the water level while at rest.  I've thought about putting the batteries (3 total batteries if you have TNTs) up front to help with balance, but that seems kinda silly to have the batteries in the front when the engine and trolling motors are in the rear.

[billh1963]

The dual batteries in my Boston Whaler Outrage 21 are in the console. I think it does help balance the boat. With high quality wiring and connectors you shouldn't have too much current loss.

I think if you build up the transom area and add troll'n tabs, storage, and a bait well then weight might become an issue.

One way to balance it out would be to move the batteries to the bow (probably extreme). Another way could be to move the console forward a couple of feet. Short of adding non-usable weight I'm not sure what other options are available

[Deck Daddy]

My .02 would be redesign the center console, cut off the front seat and move it forward. Add a leaning post/livewell put the batteries under the console. Close in the transom and add a bracket or add 5 inches to the transom and go with a 25" shaft.  If your just going to fish the rivers and the sound then a 20" transom would be fine. I like lots of fishing room and a clutter free deck. Just my thoughts. Best of luck, remember you are only limited to your imagination.

[billh1963]

I do like the idea of closing in the transom. This boat will be a "protected water" fishing boat so I'm more interested in shallow draft than high freeboards. The boat has the batteries in the console..is that the original configuration?

I would love to see some pictures of some other 19-6's!

Bill

My Boston Whaler is my offshore boat. Attached is a pic of me, my kids and my boat at high tide in SC (pic attached):

[jy118lfd]

Here is my rig at the end of last year Plans for this spring that are already underway and progressing well due to the warm weather are:
Transom replaced with seacast ,  done
I need to finish the faring and repaint but must wait for warmer weather
New to me 1989 120 johnson, Lighter than the v6, newer looper design and oil injection plus the loopers make much more torque than crossflows
Bobs machine jackplate for 5 inches of setback and easy adjustment of motor height
Teleflex ss147 no feedback steering
New johnson controls for the motor
Eisenglass enclosure for spray and wind protection while chasing spring and fall stripers
Replace the wood in the fuel tank cover that is rotten and starting to make the cover spongey
Build new hatch cover for the center fishbox

[jy118lfd]

By the way I do run mine to about 20 miles out in june and july for the small to small medium bluefin tuna run in the mudhole off jersey. Sharking is out of the question cause we come across some makos in june and july while trolling and you feel like you are in the water with them. The only problem is the rough ride of the 12 degree modified v and sometimes its wet. But other than that it is mostly used for stripers and inshore to 10 mile wreck fishing. It also drifts well and is fairly stable at anchor

She gets 3 mpg with the v6 running 35 mph cruise 44wot is about 15 gph on calm days

Hope to get a little better with the v4 with about the same top speed

[billh1963]

Good looking boat! How do you like the seacast system? That would seem to be an easier way to go about repairing your transom if you don't want to enclose it.

I've read good and bad about seacast. The bad is mostly about the potential for air pockets when pouring in the filler. What was your experience?

I'm ambivalent about t-top's. I had a Boston Whaler Montauk with the Bimini and really like the coverage it gave. My t-top on the Outrage 21 doesn't give as much protection although the electronics box is useful for my GPS, VHF, etc. The top is also very useful for hanging stuff off it (antennaes, outriggers, spreader lights, etc.). I like the unencumbered lines of the 19-6 without the t-top..so who knows what I'll wind up with!

[jy118lfd]

I poored the transom in three steps, anyone who thinks you will get voids has never used the system. I poored it in the center first and when you tap the hull with a rubber mallet I was able to get it to spread to the hull sides. It really spreads out easy. The pooring is the easiest part getting the area clean is the hardest but not to bad just tedious

[billh1963]

The concern I have about seacast is that it seems to me to be mostly some sort of resin and chopped fiberglass. Wouldn't  that be brittle? Do you mount the motor using regular bolts or is any kind of load distributing method recommended (like a metal plate)?

The replacement method is certainly easy. I'm just curious who else has tried it?

[jy118lfd]

It is a form of casting resin and does not get brittle. Remember the really good core materials like nidacore and divicell are like foam, just stronger. I think with those you must use some tube or tube of epoxy around the bolts so you don't crush it. I cinched up the bolts for my jackplate and noticed no compression of the core. It is solid and remember it is a core matieral there for strenth along with your skins, not by itself. I feel it is better than wood now but thats just my opinion. I bet that there is a bunch of people that will say the oppisite but find one that has used it. I talked with the owner of the company and I was impressed. Also look at the independent tests on his site, It is impressive. After I finished one of the local fiberglass guys told me he has used it a few times and really liked it. He still prefers to do it the old way but when someone doesn't want to cut up their floor he offers this. He said no comeback yet, thats about 4 years.

[billh1963]

I wonder if you could use seacast in conjunction with something like coosa board? Maybe you could get rid of the old transom material, slip a piece of coosa baord (or even marine plywood) between the transom fiberglass skins, and then pour in the seacast. I don't know if that would provide any extra integrity or not.