1974 19'6 Transom rebuild question

[boverstreet]

This is my first post had a question about wanting to do a full transom rebuild on a 1974 19'6. Currently the transom was rebuild with coosa in 2007 by previous owner but to stock specs.

[mshugg]

I’m not really sure what your question is, but if your asking about building up a notched transom to fill hight and adding a bracket, whether Armstrong type or portabracket, I’ll give it a shot.

If your Coosa transom is solid, then all you really need is to fill in the notch.  This could range from easy, like a Starboard panel that closes off the notch, all the way up to a full cosmetic addition that is indistinguishable from factory.

[boverstreet]

This is what I have at the moment. Seen plenty of builds on here of people taking the wood out of the transom and leaving the outer fiberglass layer just wandering how hard would pulling coosa board out and doing a full transom.

[RickK]

So the question is why?  A 196 is kinda sensitive about the weight you put on her transom (not like a 170 but you can still overdo her easily). Are you wanting a full transom? The Coosa is in and stout (I am guessing) and if you wanted a bracket, it would mount about the same level as the plate you have. If the bracket needs to be mounted a little higher you may have that room already.
You are on the right track asking questions to the right people. Keep them coming.

[boverstreet]

Had a issue with water coming in on a rough day scared the wife pretty bad. Transom is solid, batteries are moved forward as well as the tank. Yes I'm wanting to do a full transom just not sure how to go about it.

[mshugg]

If your transom is in good shape, I would definitely not try to remove the Coosa core.  It’s difficult enough to remove a rotten core, and Coosa is nasty stuff to grind.

I think there are a couple of better options.  In the spirit of truth in advertising, all of the following is theoretical.  Maybe someone who has actually done this type of modification will jump in.

You should be able to cut just the top of your existing transom.  Once this is done, you can fit Coosa extensions that raise your transom to full height. Bond the extension in place.  I would be inclined to add some kind of mechanical connection too.  Something like a doweled joint, but useing fiberglass rods instead.  Once cured, grind your existing skins back to form a taper of at least 12-1 (if skins are 1/4” thick, grind back 3” .) Glass the addition into the old glass building it up to match the thickness of the transom glass.  Fair and finish to blend the new glass into the old.  Theoretically, that should be sufficient to mount your bracket.  The core acts in compression and the skins in tension, so theoretically thee would be no loss of strength.

Even so, that would make me nervous, so I would add and glass in an exterior core to further distribute the stresses of your motor.  Something like the extra thickness in old SeaVee transoms. Interior transom knees would also help distribute the load.


https://www.thehulltruth.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=575133&stc=1&d=1443460173

You could also do a cosmetic extension and use a porta bracket for a 20” Transom.

[boverstreet]

This seems to be over my head on the expertise and skill side of things so I called young boats in inglis pretty close to me and super nice! Gonna have them take a look and see what they think as well. Pic looks really close to what I'm thinking, definitely wanted to do knees and cap. I'll keep you guys posted thanks for all the help! Hopefully I have a build posted on here soon!

[RickK]

Young will do you a good job - their boats are spectacular in finish.  Not sure how much they charge though.

[dbiscayne]

keep in mind you'll lose the ability to quickly shed water out the back like you can with a notched transom.  I don't see any scupper drains on your transom, how does the water get off the deck? 
I'd consider a splash well design before closing in the transom, and definitely add some scupper drains through the transom if you don't already have them.

[boverstreet]

The drains are located on the sides. I should have taken a better pic.