Restoration Costs?

[Everton]

I'm sure this question has been asked many times before but I had a tough time finding something using the search.   I'm in the process of searching for my next boat and am trying to do a cost comparison of buying new/gently used vs restoring something such as a 222, privateer, early 70's mako, 24 proline, etc.

Is there a ballpark figure of cost of rebuilding just the stringers, transom, and deck using a professional?   I will be able to do all wiring, rigging, plumbing, etc. myself and in an effort to save time and piece of mind would rather leave the structure to the pro's.  I realize there are many variables (ie. type and quality of materials used, demo, etc.) so a complete ball park figure would be helpful.

Assuming the following:
Epoxy resin for anything structural and no wood; only composite such as nida core, divinycell, coosa, etc.
Stringers -  foam removed, and refoamed, below deck foamed.  Raised if need be to make self-bailing
Transom enclosed
Deck -  would prefer a traditional casting deck with storage.  Finish does not have to be high end - web/splatter finish will suffice.   I just want something structurally sound and cosmetics are not overly important as it will be a functional fishing boat.

I plan to contact several shops but they are sometimes difficult to get through and may not be too motivated to speak to someone who doesn't even have the boat in hand yet, plus would like an idea if what they quote me is reasonable or not.  I have an idea of cost to put in a new fuel tank from a friend's recent experience.

Thanks for the help!  If it matters, I'm in Tampa Bay area.

[Everton]

I since stumbled across this link:

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=7697.0;wap2

One poster stated:
$3500 for the transom and cap
$2500 for the deck
$1500 for interior hole filling and fairing
$1500 for interior paint and nonskid
$1500 for reinstalling console, tank, livewell, hardware, etc. 
$1000 to mount transom bracket and rig motor.
Plus electrical rigging and hardware costs.

And another who listed $15,000 for a full hull rebuild.

Do these figures seem close still?

[florida196]

I don't have an exact figure.  Because receipts would only hurt my feelings.  But I'm sure I'm in the 20,000 range on my boat.  That includes the original 1500 purchase price.  Have bought a new trailer also during the rebuild.  But in my case it gets a lot more expensive then you think quick.   But on a good note wouldn't take any of it back. 

[Aswaff400]

for my flat back, i think just to do the fiberglass work for stringers, transom, deck, casting deck, an transom cap, and purchasing console and leaning post, it was a little over $10,000. all said and done i know im just over $30,000 total into it doing 97% of the work myself

[Everton]

Thanks - that is definitely helpful to know.  Aswaff400, is that what you have into with or without power?  If I go that route, I def understand how the costs can escalate quickly and outside what you expect.   Every accessory or project on my current boat from installing a stereo, trolling motor, or whatever always ends up about 2x what I had originally thought.

If I could get a hull rebuilt for under 20 and then cost for new power I'd prefer that over a newer production boat. 

Thanks for the info guys. 

[Aswaff400]

mine is with power. remember though, i hung a used motor on it, and sold parts along the way to make back some of the costs
if i had to break it down,
11,000 --------hull, transom, cap, decks, console, fuel tank
7,000 ---------misc rigging/controls/pumps/wiring
3,600 ---------2013 mercury 150 4 stroke
2,600 ---------trailer, custom owens and sons
2,000----------tower
2,000 ---------Ipilot, 72 inch
2,000 ---------garmin and NMEA2000
1,000 ---------misc canvas/upholstery work
700 -----------batteries, 5 deka's
600 -----------battery chargers, 3 total
32,500---------total

i think this is about as close as i can estimate what i have into mine, rounding up on what i can remember, but remember, thats doing all of the work myself... also, if paying someone to do the work, you can expect to pay probably double what it would cost to do it your self depending on how "finished" you want the hull to look. if you want it to look like a shiny new Dorado or Gause inside and out, then it will cost you a pretty penny. if you finish it off rough like a commercial fishing boat similar to how i did mine, it wont cost as much due to less labor.  also, you can save quite a bit if you go with a used motor vs new, even if only a few years old.

[Everton]

Aswaff400

Thanks for that breakdown.   Your top item for the hull, transom, cap, decks, fuel tank is really what I'm trying to get educated on before seeking quotes and weighing this route vs. new/newer boat.  I just like the layout of these the best and won't be able to afford a Dorado, Gause, Avenger, etc. 

Is that number including any work on the stringers?   

The other items I'd do myself and sounds like you got a great deal on that Merc.    A lot of the electronics and rigging (trolling motor, battery chargers, GPS, stereo, etc) I have already so I think with what I'd pay a shop in labor and subtracting the costs of items I have could come in close to what you are in for.  Your numbers make me feel as if I can make this work so I really appreciate you breaking it down.