Securing Leaning Post To Deck

[boatnamesue]

1976 Aquasport 170
Hey gang.  I'd like to get your input on installing a leaning post to the deck.  My original plan was to remove the console in order to access the fuel tank panel.  With the access panel off I could install backing plates or large fender washers with bolts.  However, the guys who were working at the business where I bought the new leaning post looked at me funny when I told them my plan.  They said they regularly, and without fail, use 1/4 flat head SS wood screws through the deck (4 screws/leg) and use 5200.  That's it.  They do not bolt with plates under deck.

So I've got two questions.  First, what are your thoughts about the above?  Second, I believe the mounting flanges of the leaning post are in-line with the stringers (And according to the same people above, securing into the stringers is that much better).  For some reason I thought I heard that screwing into stringers is not good.  Your thoughts?  Thanks in advance for your time!

[CTsalt12]

First off I'll state there are others on here who know way way more than I do.  But I know a few things.

How were you planning to install backing plates in the deck with the tank access panel off?  In AS's I've seen (Including mine) the tank coffin is enclosed and you wouldn't be able to access the back of the deck outside of the tank coffin.

I've definitely seen guys mount leaning posts without backing them. 16 screws should be plenty of holding power, and if mounted well, you'll be fine.  I might even mount with Epoxy instead of 5200.  Drill holes wider than what you need, fill with epoxy and make sure you get it as distributed in the deck core as possible, and drill a smaller hole within the epoxy that the screws will go into.  That's how I've mounted into an area of floor on my boat that had some moisture intrusion.  Seeing as you have a 76 you might have a bit of moisture in there too. 

I do think you want to stay away from drilling into the stringers.  That's a whole other can of worms if moisture gets in there, worst case scenario.  I'd think you wouldnt want to go all the way through the deck. 

[boatnamesue]

This would be my first time opening fuel access panel since buying the boat.  So to be honest, I really don't know if enough room would exist for a backing plate or even fender washers.  And I tell ya, removing console, unsealing panel and screws is a much bigger job than using 16 screws.  And the reason I mentioned screwing into stringers is soley because I was under the impression that at least one thread of the screw tip should go through.  But really, i think with the 5200 imbedded in the holes will provide more pull out strength than any number of threads through. 

[Humpinit]

I can agree that the 16 screws and some 5200 will be suffice. I have removed my leaning post on my Key West to cut out the floor and the 5200 ripped the fiberglass off before separating. Might even want to use 4200 if you ever want to move it.

[BMAC1988]

I used the biggest stainless wood screws I could find at Lowes for my leaning post, I've got 4 per leg, and its rock solid. I didn't use any 5200 because I didn't want to risk tearing my floor up if I ever need to remove it. I used marine silicone to seal the screws/holes. I did the same thing for my T-top but with i think 15 screws per side into a piece of 1/4" aluminium welded to the legs on the T-top, and of course the 4 5/16" bolts that hold the sides to the console with plates on the back side, the top is also incredibly sturdy.

IMO with that many screws of that size, it'll have to pull the floor apart before it comes out and if that happens 5200 isn't going to help make it any stronger, you're bond is only strong as what you're bonding to.

[RickK]

My floor is composite (honeycomb) so screws won't work 
I have to overdrill through the floor into the stringers and fill with thickened epoxy and then drill and add threaded inserts into the spots.  I need to get this done soon.