Time to add more step by step instructions for this easy process.
I worked on the hatches and got the edges ready for spray and then masked them off. Then I will re-mask and get them ready for gelcoat non-skid - I will take a bunch of pics of that process so I can add it to the original non-skid topic in the resources forum.
New bilge hatch:
New front hatch:
Second from front hatch (the original):
The new hatch over the fuel tank
I took them all to the spray booth and just as the sun was starting to set (and the temp in the booth went down) I sprayed them and other parts and will leave them in there all night.
Anyway, I sprayed the edges enough to build up some gelcoat and then I took the tape/paper off and sanded the lip down that was created by the gelcoat on the top and scruffed the edges one last time. Then I shot a light coat of gelcoat on the edges without any masking.
The edges are looking good. You can see some pinholes in the field of the hatch - that will be covered by the non-skid
I tried to fit the latches into the bilge holes and the gelcoat had made them too tight so I spent some time carefully grinding with a dremel until they fit again. A little caulking and it'll be right.
I masked off the edges with one layer of tape and then set whatever hardware was to be installed in place to give me an idea of where I needed to tape and what edge I wanted on them
And then masked, marked and trimmed
And then you repeat with a second layer - a different color if you can. I'll explain the process later
I mixed and colored up some waxed gelcoat today and will use that as the second coat after the non-skid is applied. I'll waste a couple roller sleeves and pan liners to do the process on just the bilge hatch to make sure I like the color I mixed up.
So this morning I started applying non-skid and the items you need after everything is taped off is some glass bead (not bubbles), a small mixing cup, some household screen and a strong rubber band.
You make the small cup into a bead shaker of sorts
You need a 1/4" nap roller sleeve to roll the base coat and the top coat of gelcoat. You don't want to lay too thick of a base coat otherwise the bead will sink into it and disappear and you don't want too heavy a top coat or it'll smooth out the bead and you'll end up without non-skid. Don't ask how I know that
Roll out the areas
evenly, making sure to coat part of the tape so you know you got to the edge
The grab the shaker and start shaking
even coats of bead on the areas, it doesn't hurt to overcoat it because you'll sweep that off later
Let the gelcoat kick - since I used non-waxed for the base coat I put plastic over everything to seal off the air so it could kick - and then take a soft hand brush and dustpan and sweep off the excess bead into the dustpan and then pour back into the shaker. I used two 10 oz shakers and then swept back up 12 ounces, so you use just a little bead. You can also lightly coat the areas with bead for a lighter non-skid.
Sweep off the excess bead and peel one layer of tape off
Now, using a 1/4" nap roller, lightly cover the areas - I mixed 6oz of gelcoat and it was barely enough to cover everything - nice light coat
Let the top coat start to kick and then peel off the last layer of tape. I make sure that I pull it off so the tape is pulling away from the bead edge - take your time.
Not too shabby and the gray color I mixed up matches well IMO.
