i am looking for pictures of the floor of a 1993 230 osprey

[Tony G]

I recently bought a 1993 230 osprey and i know there werent many made in that year but from what ive seen the floor in the 1992 is the same.. When i got the boat the fuel tank was already removed and the pieces of the floor were out and the center console is missing in action.. It looks like i am missing a piece to the floor and POSSIBLY the center console isnt wide enough to cover the opening in the floor width wise as well... But any pictures of a complete floor so i can see how it lays out and what i am missing would be MUCH appreciated.. Thanks people..

[Capt. Bob]

Doesn't show much but here is a line drawing of your deck. We certainly haven't seen many so I don't think I have an actual photo.



You might have something similar to Rick and my deck (different cap yes but...)

Can you post a few pics on what you are currently looking at?

Thanks.

Good luck.

[Capt. Bob]

Also look at this thread and follow the links.

Does yours look similar?

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10931.msg106873#msg106873

[Tony G]

Yes ive seen that one.. Thats the exact same boat i just have a single screw but thats it and unfortunately it doesnt show a picture of the floor from the leaning post BACK and thats what i need lol.. You guys are awesome and i appreciate the help..

[Tony G]

I put a couple of pictures and a reply but i dont see it on here.. Did i do something wrong or do you guys see them ?

[Capt. Bob]

There in the post (#4) just above your last post.

I see them so......

Can you post a couple more showing the motor/splash well area and a shot looking back from the console.
my eyes are old and I need a few more angles. It somewhat appears that some cutting has been done but I can't really tell from the two you posted.

Thanks!

[RickK]

Is that a portion of the original tank cover?  A huge cavern beneath the deck there - it should hold a 141gal tank.  That's the size of mine.

[RickK]

Can you take a pic of the HIN on the back of the transom - right side?  Also, try uploading your pics to the photo gallery into your member gallery and then we can get good size pics to post. (See the link I sent in my welcome email)

[Tony G]

Yes i have the fuel tank out of the boat right now .. it goes in that channel .. Problem is im missing a piece of the floor i believe because im pretty sure that there is supposed to be a piece under the console as well insted of being able to look at the hull if you open the door on the center console.. so maybe im missing 1 big piece of the floor or 2 small pieces, the picture of the boat dirty shows the floor with a GAP in the floor between the center console and the piece of floor with the pie eye in it.. And thats with NOTHING under the center console.. Ive owned4 center consoles and none of them were just open under the console.. Any help would be appreciated... Thanks

[RickK]

Yeah there should be a solid cover there front to back.  It doesn't look like it would be hard to make a cover to fit - pretty easy actually.
We can walk you through how to do it.  The only challenge would be the diamond non-skid - maybe Joel has an idea on that part.

[Tony G]

Ok so i figured out that the big piece in that picture has 3 corners so THAT piece is the one that goes under the center console and the cables and stuff go to the center console through that corner that isnt there.. Its molded that way not cut im sure you guys know what im talking about.. So the fact that i didnt get a leaning post with the boat means that the piece that the leaning post bolts to is the piece that i am missing which are probably together SOMEWHERE but wasnt with the boat.. Figured this out lastnight.. so yea it looks like i may have to MAKE the piece that goes from the back edge of the center console (piece the leaning post bolts to) to the 3ft long piece in the back which is the live well..

[RickK]

So that piece fits under and inside the console (cut corner is inside) I bet.  Has to be a way to keep water from running under the console and into the bilge through that hole. Regardless, the cables need a way in, so that's it.

[Tony G]

True, and the corner isnt like CUT its molded like that with the corner missing so that piece i know now and the piece all the way in the BACK (live well) piece i have.. So i need the piece the leaning post bolts to.. If you know of any please let me know.. Or a leaning post as well.. And again thanks

[RickK]

I think you'll have to make it.  It's easy. 
Here is a quick tutorial using polyester: (If any of you see I missed a step feel free to jump in and add it to the list)
Get some formica, glue it to a sheet of plywood or even an old hollow core door or something wide enough for the hatch plus a couple inches.  Make sure it's flat when you do this. Attach a frame of 1x3 or even 2x4s around the perimeter of the formica and make the inside dimensions of this frame the size of the outside measurements of the hatch.  Now you have a mold the size of the hatch cover.  You can cut and glue formica around the inside of the frame.  Nice and slick and you don't need to wax it. (Might not hurt but formica is slick)
You then mix some thickened resin and apply a fillet all the way around the inside of the frame/bottom and corner joints are so that the edges of the cover will be rounded. Let it kick.
Now take a look at the thickness of the hatches you have now and around the lip how thick are they and how thick are the top sides of them.  I would guess about 1/8-3/16" thick.  That's 4-5 layers of 1708 cloth.  Dry cut/fit all these layers in the mold .
Then you figure out the coring, cut that and bevel the edges so the cloth you lay over the top can make the curve transitions.  Leave the coring beveled edge back an inch from the edges of the mold.  Resin coat the coring (if using wood).
You need another 2 more layers to cover the top of the coring and down onto the bottom of the hatch. Dry fit these layers (You can also run them up the outer edges too if you want)
Now you spray gelcoat onto the mold 20 or so mils thick (I guess you could roll it on also?) - the mold will make it nice and smooth on the outside when you pop it out.  Let that kick.
Then you start laminating it all together layer by layer, wet on wet.  Wet the coring bottom side and lay the coring into the wet cloth and at this point you might want to put a bunch of weight on the top of the coring to push it into the cloth and let it all harden.
Then scruff up the parts that you applied resin to and then apply the top 2 layers of cloth over the core and down onto the flat bottom and possibly up the sides.  Let it harden for a couple days and then either unscrew the outer frames or flip the plywood over and pop out the new cover.  You'll have to trim the height of the edges but as long as the outside dimensions were correct you're almost there.