Author Topic: 1997 200 Evinrude Ocean Pro no spark /intermittent spark on one cylinder (Read 2043 times)

Sailordog23 · « **on:** August 17, 2015, 07:09:47 AM »

Hi guys,

I have searched far and wide, even looked at the CDI electronics troubleshooting etc., to no avail. The motor runs fairly smooth, but smokey (I just purchased this boat on C/L, 1998 215DC). It take a bit longer than it should on holeshot to get up on plane, so I checked the prop, 15 x 17 stainless. The RPMs stay constant, so the hub is good. The motor tops out at 4800 RPM, I know it should be at least 5500-5900 WOT. The next thing I did was changed plugs, gapped .030. That's when I noticed the bottom port side plug wasn't as dirty as the rest. After about 2 hours on the water, I rechecked them and the same plug is oily, but not a lick of carbon like the others. I checked for spark and the port bank is defiantly working at idle, but that cylinder is clearly not working at speed. I changed a coil and same result. I don't have a meter that does DVA or hold, so I asking for your assistance. Thank So!

Capt. Bob · « **Reply #1 on:** August 17, 2015, 01:27:08 PM »

SD,
I'll guess the "pistonheads" will want to know which type ignition system is on your motor. The CDI TS manual is fairly concise on the steps depending on the system and a DVA goes a long way to helping out.

I had a 96 version of this motor and had a reed valve failure in one cylinder so you may want to explore that possibility.

Good luck.

Sailordog23 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 17, 2015, 02:49:03 PM »

Thanks for the reply Capt Bob. I'm showing my lack of knowledge here, when you ask what kind of ignition system, I'm at a loss? I think it's the oem CDI type, not points and condenser. How would I tell?

Wouldn't a reed valve failure show in a lack of comprehension on one more cylinders? I am intrigued by the reed valve theory, do tell. Thanks!

Capt. Bob · « **Reply #3 on:** August 17, 2015, 04:06:40 PM »

Yes it is a CDI system but I thought I remembered some might of have a different sensor (optical) of some type but......

As to the reed. Mine spit occasionally at idle on the muffs but at times would make a noticeable change in power (as if dropping a cylinder) when underway. The reeds were replaced under warranty when the shop determined that was the problem. That motor is still running well (different owner). Still, reed failure doesn't seem to be a common occurrence like ignition gremlins so it was just another thought.

Do you have a service manual for that engine?

fitz73222 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 17, 2015, 05:31:02 PM »

Compression test to get started. If it appears to be getting fuel and fire, compression is the last in the equation. No more than 4-5 compression strokes per cylinder on the gage to check it accurately without doing a leak down test.

Sailordog23 · « **Reply #5 on:** August 17, 2015, 06:53:31 PM »

Ok Capt Bob I understand your question. Not the Optical Ignition type. Compression check was in the 90s. Across all cylinders. I understand that is normal for that motor.no manual, my old one was for the v60's with OIS. Only had this boat 10 days, so that's on my list.

Sailordog23 · « **Reply #6 on:** August 19, 2015, 01:03:44 PM »

Ok, here's the update, I borrowed a Snap-on compression tester and followed the instructions implicitly. With the batteries fully charged, the carb butterflies wide open, all plugs out. The compression was even across all cylinders, 100, 101, 103, 101, 98, 100. Everything I read says that those loopers were not especially high compression, so that seems legit to me. Then on to a spark gap check, with a gauge set to 7/16". Again, nothing unusual there. All were hot blue/white across the gap. My next thought is to try the DVA check, but I'm not sure how to accomplish that at full throttle without a test tank and prop. Any thoughts?

fitz73222 · « **Reply #7 on:** August 20, 2015, 06:08:01 AM »

I'm not entirely convinced you have an ignition problem. You haven't described any kind of miss or stumble at speed, just lower rpm's at full throttle. I've seen where a leaking lower crankshaft seal can cause a partial fuel charge loss and causes a lower cylinder to run leaner than the others and not make power as it should. One way to validate this is to drop the lower unit and see if you have fuel/oil running down the driveshaft below the spline area. It's a quick check and worth doing if you can't find an ignition issue. The concern is as the seal leaks more and more, the fuel charge gets leaner and can burn the piston or damage a bearing. Other symptoms of a bad seal is that when the engine starts cold it will light up on 5 cylinders and then start to run on 6 when it starts to warm up or the engine will start to have a low speed spit or miss that it didn't have before.

Sailordog23 · « **Reply #8 on:** August 20, 2015, 10:00:22 AM »

Thanks Farley,

Wouldn't there be fuel leaking out of the seam between the midsection and the lower unit? If its losing that much charge, I would think there should be a little staining at the very least. This one is very clean. I will check it out, though!

Tom
Unrelated note, I saw a video on YouTube for a product called Total Boat Gelcoat from Jamestown Distributers, really looks promising for the Whaler rehab. Check it out.

fitz73222 · « **Reply #9 on:** August 20, 2015, 10:19:08 AM »

Sailordog23

Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Somers Point, NJ
Posts: 8

Re: 1997 200 Evinrude Ocean Pro no spark /intermittent spark on one cylinder
« Reply #8 on: Today at 10:00:22 AM »QuoteThanks Farley,

Wouldn't there be fuel leaking out of the seam between the midsection and the lower unit? If its losing that much charge, I would think there should be a little staining at the very least. This one is very clean. I will check it out, though!

It doesnt take that much of a seal leak to start causing a problem and you'll never see an issue externally. This I have experienced first hand but recognized the issue before I had any problems. Lots of engines die early deaths from bad crank seals, particularly Yamahas.