Author Topic: cc anchor points (Read 509 times)

scoflaw · « **on:** February 22, 2015, 06:14:39 PM »

Just had the ttop cc rip loose.

Where might be the anchor points, and best way to secure.

1982 20' ccp

Capt. Bob · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2015, 06:34:49 PM »

I need a couple of pics to see just what you have going on here.

Thanks.

scoflaw · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2015, 06:49:02 PM »

I'm challenged in the pic dept. The deck on this old boat has seen better days. Not sure about the stringers, but can't seem to find anything solid to screw into.

The aluminum t top is making things that much harder to secure. Thinking about removing it completely to eliminate the overhead weight.

Got a month left here on vacation, looking for a quick fix, yah right. Had this rig airbourne @ 47 mph . cc ttop broke loose and had me pinned against the leaning post, which also broke loose. Slightly bloodied from the loose screws,but made it safely back.

RickK · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2015, 07:00:44 PM »

I think your idea of removing it is a good one.

Without some backer plates the t-top was just an accident waiting to happen. I had the same thing happen with the console on my 170 - hit a wave, 2 people grabbed the windshield frame to hang on and the console ripped out of the floor. Was quite a shock

When you replace the floor you need to plan how you'll reinforce the t-top points. Might as well plan the console mounting too while you're at it.

Capt. Bob · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2015, 07:07:07 PM »

Well you got a couple of things going on here.

First, if whoever originally mounted the top, didn't properly seal the attachment points, the deck has rotted out under them. You obviously have figured this out already so....

Until you can repair/replaced the deck, removing the T top is your best option. The stringers themselves will not provide adequate attachment support. We have several methods used by members to attach their tops. Most are tied into deck replacement. Through bolting (using deck plate access), tapped plating (to accept threaded anchors) and threaded lags (top hat nuts I believe they are called ) have been used. Of course, a solid deck can be used to hold lag bolts for securing the top but with time, if not sealed correctly, the deck will rot from water intrusion.

Good luck.

scoflaw · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2015, 07:30:30 PM »

OK, yup get it with the t top. After having a peek at the stringers, when I was looking at the gas tank, What the hell is in the middle of those things? Look like fibreglass

RickK · « **Reply #6 on:** February 22, 2015, 07:35:11 PM »

The stringers are all fiberglass with foam inside.

scoflaw · « **Reply #7 on:** February 22, 2015, 07:50:37 PM »

OK, so how do you beef them up so I can screw the helm to them?

RickK · « **Reply #8 on:** February 22, 2015, 08:29:16 PM »

The first thing you might want do is spend a few hours looking though the rebuilds we have here and glean what you can to help your needs.
The extent of your rebuild will depend on what you learn from the rebuilds here and how far you want to take it. It may be as easy as injecting resin into the rotted areas to get you a few more seasons until you do the replacement of the sole.
I am in the midst of a full rebuild on my 170 and have almost gotten her back to being a boat. I don't have all the answers you'll ask but I might have the answers to what you don't find looking through the rebuilds that we have logged here. Don't only look at rebuilds just for your model, look at some from all models - that'll give you the data you're looking for.

scoflaw · « **Reply #9 on:** February 23, 2015, 08:16:37 AM »

Not too computer savey, might take me a few hours just find where to begin looking.

This is what your telling me, the stringers won't support the tt. , the floor does.
Question is, how and where does a wood floor attach to a fiberglass boat.

A link would be great, got skill and some tools with me, maybe a partial floor replacement to get me through my vacation

Thanks for your time

Capt. Bob · « **Reply #10 on:** February 23, 2015, 08:20:54 AM »

Scof,
Let's get started here.

First, I'll get you a few links to read (including this one) in a moment.

Meanwhile look at how one member is re-enforcing his stringers to mount his tower.

Then I mounted 3/8" aluminum plates to the stringers. These will give the top/tower something to mount to (there is a 1-1/4" gap beneath the plates for thru-bolting). I had to mount these before I can foam the stringers because they are thru-bolted to the stringer tops. Now that I have the nuts on the back side I can foam away.

More to follow.

scoflaw · « **Reply #11 on:** February 23, 2015, 08:43:57 AM »

Thanks for your interest Bob

Not looking to get that deep, only here for another month, and want to get back on the water

Was thinking about skimming over the deck with some 3/4 ply to get me through.. Not sure how to attach it
It's soft around the console. I like the ttop but may have to lose it for now.

Capt. Bob · « **Reply #12 on:** February 23, 2015, 09:01:30 AM »

OK,

General ideas on materials for top mounting.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=352.0

Depending on how much rotted deck you are dealing with, you may want to try the method linked below. Commercial resins such as "Git Rot" are available "off the shelf" at marine stores. You can also purchase (as in the link) the resin and hardener and mix it as shown.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10787.msg105762#msg105762

I used this type of threaded insert to mount my live well. I over drilled and filled the hole with epoxy and "screwed" in the insert. Once you repair the deck, this may be another mounting thought but you really want to spread the forces exerted by the tower on the connection points as much as possible.
https://www.google.com/search?q=threaded+inserts&tbm=isch&imgil=e6kcD7JiS1ifnM%253A%253B7AftwY3NoZIsmM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.rockler.com%25252Fhardware%25252Ffasteners%25252Fthreaded-inserts&source=iu&pf=m&fir=e6kcD7JiS1ifnM%253A%252C7AftwY3NoZIsmM%252C_&usg=__VOpf4PfyW-iBA4BqMzmOdHYBpFw%3D&biw=1366&bih=643&ved=0CHcQyjc&ei=BzPrVP3xL8bEggTAuYTgCg#imgdii=_&imgrc=e6kcD7JiS1ifnM%253A%3B7AftwY3NoZIsmM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fassets.rockler.com%252Fmedia%252Fcatalog%252Fproduct%252Fcache%252F1%252Fimage%252F720x720%252F9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95%252F2%252F8%252F28811-01-1000.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.rockler.com%252Fhardware%252Ffasteners%252Fthreaded-inserts%3B720%3B720

Original link to the plate install (10th post down).
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10287.225

Good luck.

scoflaw · « **Reply #13 on:** February 23, 2015, 01:43:46 PM »

So after removing the tt and tipping the console up and looking at all this ugliness, I'm thing about skimming over the front half of the boat for now. If I plywood over the gas tank under the console it will give the floor more strength. I will mark the plywood for cutting when the tank needs attention.

Question is, besides the edge, where are the other meaty areas to screw the new plywood to.

Author Topic: cc anchor points (Read 509 times)

scoflaw

cc anchor points

Capt. Bob

Re: cc anchor points

scoflaw

Re: cc anchor points

RickK

Re: cc anchor points

Capt. Bob

Re: cc anchor points

scoflaw

Re: cc anchor points

RickK

Re: cc anchor points

scoflaw

Re: cc anchor points

RickK

Re: cc anchor points

scoflaw

Re: cc anchor points

Capt. Bob

Re: cc anchor points

scoflaw

Re: cc anchor points

Capt. Bob

Re: cc anchor points

scoflaw

Re: cc anchor points