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Author Topic: Flatback Transom Replacement  (Read 1172 times)

April 28, 2015, 08:08:11 AM
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Jack Hart

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Flatback Transom Replacement
« on: April 28, 2015, 08:08:11 AM »
I'm considering upgrading to a new motor on my 1971 22-2, and since the transom is now about 44 years old and appears to be original, I'm also thinking maybe a new motor would be even better on a new transom.  The boat is in excellent cosmetic condition and I really don't want to do much more than replace the transom using the cleanest most structurally sound method.  What are the pros and cons of poured transoms vs. ply transoms, cutting away the exterior skin vs. going from the interior?  Here's what we're working with, and I'm thinking of hanging a new E-Tec, maybe 175hp.



April 28, 2015, 09:16:13 AM
Reply #1

fitz73222

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Re: Flatback Transom Replacement
« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2015, 09:16:13 AM »
Jack I'll offer two opinions that are not experienced based but observation based.
1) I've always liked the poured transom concept with one exception. All of the work is done vertically through the top of the transom to remove the old core using an electric chainsaw or some other means leaving the inner and outer skin undisturbed. My issue is that it does not address an issue that is common to soggy transoms that the stringers can be delaminated from the inner transom skin and a poured transom does not repair that loss bond.
2) The exterior skin removal method of transom replacement is a carryover from 60+ years ago for wood boat transom replacement. I believe its much stronger to remove the inner skin, including stringer bond to transom repair and a whole lot less fairing.
1973 Aquasport 22-2, twin 115 Mercs
2000 Baycraft 175 flats boat, 60 Bigfoot Merc
1968 Boston Whaler 13, 25 Yamaha (project)
1966 Orlando Clipper 13, 9.9 Merc

April 28, 2015, 10:19:45 AM
Reply #2

RickK

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Re: Flatback Transom Replacement
« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2015, 10:19:45 AM »
 :iagree:
If you want to replace the transom from the inside then you'll need to cut back the sole and the stringers and liner all about a foot and a half or more to give you access to the inside of the transom.  Then you can use a circular saw and cut the transom into strips down to the glass and use an air chisel to peel those strips away. Then you grind and clean up the inside areas of the transom and start by reinforcing the inner side of the transom and hull sides with cloth. Then then you have two options - wood or composite as the transom material and then glass the insides to hull and then reconnect the stringers to themselves and the transom. If you were careful you can reuse the sole (if it's in good shape) and glass it back in along with the liner pieces you cut out.  If you find soaked foam in the stringers Plan B is not a pretty one but as Fitz said, if you cut everything back, you are sure of all the attachment points, i.e. stringer to transom.
If you don't want the destruction part of the inside, poured is ok but it is more complicated than it seems - look at Lars 170 rebuild from Sweden and pick his brain - he used a poured method successfully.
Replacing the transom from the outside is not easy to cleanly do unless you cut the transom outer skin off totally so you can cut the pieces of transom material to follow the inner transom, especially with the " side wings" of the transom (parts that extend above the transom on the sides).  Then you also have to laminate the outer skin across and down the hull sides and hull bottom a foot to form a good connection to everything. and then fairing it all out - a ton of work.
Anyway, that's my $.02 - you have choices.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

April 28, 2015, 11:19:14 AM
Reply #3

Jack Hart

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Re: Flatback Transom Replacement
« Reply #3 on: April 28, 2015, 11:19:14 AM »
Thanks guys.  This is exactly the kind of info I'm seeking.  I'm trying to balance all the pros and cons of different approaches to figure out what would work best for my situation. 

 


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