Steering Wheel and Power Knob....Weird

[futch13]

Before you go to the shop, if you have an Edson style wheel, mark the nut and spin it to get to move, if the mark still lines up, your keyway is good, also ya'll need to remember that this is a mechanically activated pump.  Does not hold pressure without some type of mechanical advantage. Whether it is steering input or motor torque, there has to be some type of counter pressure to make the system work.

[gran398]

Will do Loye, and thanks very much. Will mark as advised and see what we have.

[Capt. Bob]

Don't know if this is your type Scott but here's a collection of what we have. Hope this helps and might do the same for other members experiencing steering woes.

Helm repair:
viewtopic.php?p=90919#p90919

Cylinder repair:
http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-cont ... Manual.pdf
Photos of my repair:
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... hp?cat=709

Helm leak repair:
viewtopic.php?p=48763#p48763
(please note proper seal size for helm model year)


Good luck.

[wingtime]

Scott, if your wheel is not spinning on the shaft my bet is your problem lies within the check valve shown in the first link in Capt. Bob's post.  It could be just a simple piece of trash in there.

[gran398]

Thanks for the excellent links CB

Thanks for the guidance Bruce, SB, Farley, and Loye

I will ck. tonight on potential slippage by marking the nut against the upper portion of the wheel as Loye advises.

If it is a problem with the helm itself...I would hope the folks in Fl. would give me a fair shake warranty-wise.

[gran398]

Latest report:

The key was in all along and is working. So called the folks in Safety Harbor who supplied the helm to get their opinion.
He is Eugene's friend Butch  http://www.boatsteeringrebuilders.com/

To confirm no slippage of the wheel, he said to spin it all the way to the starboard stop...then count the turns back to the port stop.

Sue enough, exactly the same after doing this several times...about 4.3 full rotations. So good news there, wheel not slipping on the taper.

Then he advised to push the rear of the starboard engine to confirm no slippage on the rear cylinder. Did it, no slippage.

He said there are two check valves that open and close depending upon resistance. The short back and forth throw (when I was able to move the knob clockwise) is from trapped microscopic air bubbles which over time have formed one large single bubble trapped in the line near the helm.

Eugene advised the cure is to bleed it using the Seastar closed bleeding system available at most larger shops. He said purging this bubble will eliminate the slight amount of play before the system engages. So in the meantime, more of a curiosity than anything, and glad she's safe to run.

Thanks everyone...at least feel the experience was educational

[Group W Bench]

Power Purge is your friend. When you have the Power Purge hooked up, turn the wheel all the way over after closing the bleed screws to both port and starboard at least once. This will ensure the both high and low pressure check valves have unseated in the helm pump and you will not have remaining air in the system. A Power Purge is really the only way to effectively get the air out of a dual station steering system without spending an absolutely ricockculous amount of time bleeding. Even with a Power Purge, the micro bubbles of air that form in the fluid will eventually coagulate within a couple of weeks and often cause a spongy feeling or starboard torque steer until bled again. This is particularly true in dual station configurations. Aaron and the local boys are welcome to use my Power Purge when it comes time to bleed their steering. Scotty, you are on your own in North Cackalacy brother. Always good to hear your voice and southernese colloquialisms. I grew up in a hick town that was country as cornbread and I'm still not quite sure what half of your East Carolina adages actually mean, but they are always good to bring a smile for the rest of the day stewing on them.