Bilge access... Last hands in here were Bob's

[flounderpounder225]

Finally got to my project like Pete's to open an access in the fish box to allow access into the depths of the bilge.  To my surprise the sea cock ball valve was free and opened and closed easily.  I can now remove my bilge pump, float switch and fish box pump out pump easily.  I went with a regular o-ring sealed hatch instead of a pie plate, I wanted maximum room to reach in.  It all worked out really well, I bought this versa tool at lowes, $59 on sale, and I am glad I did it, this tool will have many uses in the future.  Excellent at cutting through the thinner fiberglass of the fish box, non cored.  What makes it nice is doesn't try to walk, or get away from you, you can literally cut razor thin slices, it's not real fast.
but very accurate.  So here are a few pics from start to finish.
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[seabob4]

I think I see my fingerprints in there Marc!

Well done, my friend...  

[Circle Hooked]

Well done Marc, having done the round pie plate myself I must say I like yours better  

[Bergertime]

Marc-

Nice job!  I have been eyeballing that tool at Harbor Freight for while but was not sold on it's usefulness.  How did it work on cutting the fiberglass and what blade did you use?  

I think I may follow in your footsteps on the hatch.  The PO removed the pump from the same fish box so I have been contemplating on what to use it for...   I never really store fish in there (use front lockers that drain overboard) so I am perplexed.  It does not drain well and just collects dirt so I am not sure if I'm keen on buying a new macerator pump ($$).  Any suggestions or ideas on utilizing that space?

PS- I did see a picture, not sure where, but someone was using it to store their batteries.  Not sure I like that idea though.

PS - Do want my WEMA sender from my stock tank, free of charge of course?  It's barely a year old but I can't use it on my new tank due to the dimension change. Just let me know.

B

[seabob4]

Bruce, the best thing you can do to help with drainage is to install a drain in the floor of the box like you see in Marc's pic.  Pete and I believe also Scott have done the same in their fishboxes.  These drains from Marine East...http://www.marineeast.com/a_sch/sch_det ... &pid=02_01 work real well as their flanges are almost flush...route out a bit of the glass where the flange lies and you CAN make them flush.

If you want to go the macerator pump route, you'll need a drain with an 1 1/2" barb, every macerator pump that I know of, that's what the inlet port size is, with a 1" discharge port.  If you choose to just let it drain into the bilge, than a 3/4" barb drain will do just fine, use a drain plug to cap it off...

[flounderpounder225]

Marc-

Nice job!  I have been eyeballing that tool at Harbor Freight for while but was not sold on it's usefulness.  How did it work on cutting the fiberglass and what blade did you use?  

I think I may follow in your footsteps on the hatch.  The PO removed the pump from the same fish box so I have been contemplating on what to use it for...   I never really store fish in there (use front lockers that drain overboard) so I am perplexed.  It does not drain well and just collects dirt so I am not sure if I'm keen on buying a new macerator pump ($$).  Any suggestions or ideas on utilizing that space?

PS- I did see a picture, not sure where, but someone was using it to store their batteries.  Not sure I like that idea though.

PS - Do want my WEMA sender from my stock tank, free of charge of course?  It's barely a year old but I can't use it on my new tank due to the dimension change. Just let me know.

B

As Bob says, install the drain in the floor, I did that for rainwater that likes to accumulate, my pump is not a macerator, just a regular small bilge that would pump out bloody water, but like you, I dont use the box much for fish.  Get the Rockwell Versa tool from Lowes, I think the HF version is probably not that good quality.  At $59 the Rockwell is very stron, and I added the 1 year extended warranty for $10, so for 2 years I can take it back and just exchange it at Lowes.. I have a feeling it is going to croak around the 20 Month mark.  The blad it came with (one of three) is made for steel and tile I think, worked fine on the fiberglass and did not pack up, or dull.  Sure, if you are looking to get rid of the WEMA sender I could use it.. Thanks, I'll be glad to give you something for it?  Let me know, we can PM..

[pete]

Looks good Marc!That hatch is huge! Plenty of access there.And those oscillating tools are great!

[icemanbryan]

Bruce, the best thing you can do to help with drainage is to install a drain in the floor of the box like you see in Marc's pic.  Pete and I believe also Scott have done the same in their fishboxes.  These drains from Marine East...http://www.marineeast.com/a_sch/sch_det ... &pid=02_01 work real well as their flanges are almost flush...route out a bit of the glass where the flange lies and you CAN make them flush.

If you want to go the macerator pump route, you'll need a drain with an 1 1/2" barb, every macerator pump that I know of, that's what the inlet port size is, with a 1" discharge port.  If you choose to just let it drain into the bilge, than a 3/4" barb drain will do just fine, use a drain plug to cap it off...

Me too Bob.
After seeing what the guys did it was a no brainer, yeah?

[bobterisch]

Hi Mark,
That's very nice! I use my fish box a lot do you know if that hatch makes a watertight seal?
Thank you,
Bob