1972 222 CC - Bilge Pump

[bluedolphin]

I hooked up a 1500 GPH rule pump in the bilge. But where do I screw the pump to? I don't want to screw to the hull bottom, but what are my options? Thanks for your suggestions.

[GoneFission]

You can clean and dry a section of the inside hull, then put a glop (technical term there) of 5200 on the hull and some on the underside of the pump, and then "glue" the pump to the hull.  Put something on the pump to hold it down or in place and let it set for a couple days before disturbing the 5200 set.  This is actually the way Aquasport originally installed the pumps on some hulls.    

If you prefer, you can also screw the pump to a piece of Starboard and then glue the Starboard to the inside hull using the same process.  If you want to be fancy, you can shape the Starboard to fit the deadrise of the hull and the pump will sit in a vertical position instead of at the hull angle.  

OR, you can glass a pad on the inside hull and mount the pump on the pad - that would be the most work, but also the most professional and durable option.

[bluedolphin]

Thanks, GoneFission! I will try the 5200 method first.

[John Jones]

I used the 5200 on a piece of 3/4 plywood that had 3 coats of epoxy applied.  Then I screwed the pump to the plywood.

[bluedolphin]

Thanks, JohnJones. I might try that, too.

[JimCt]

When you mount it, be sure you can easily get to the release tabs on the side of the pump's base so you can clean it out periodically.  Seems everything winds up in the bilge sooner or later.  A good portion of it ends up plugging the pump screen or wrapped around the impeller.

[John Jones]

What Jim said.   And keep all wires/hoses etc. away from the float switch.

[ddd222]

bilge area my biggest complaint about my 87'222, but that centers around lack of access to bilge area,and bad livewell design, placement, functionallity, etc. My best placement of the pump is very similar to what others mentioned, but the wood i mounted pump on is cut on each side to what i would guess is about 30 degrees to sit as low as possible and rest right in the middle of the bilge area. Not too big a wood mount that it barely squeezes through access hatch or to far to reach. I wouldn't go crazy w/ too much adhesive because you may need to get it out in a pinch like me, a few dollups of 52-4200 on each corner will keep it solid in place, but not impossible to get out by hand, and a few extra feet of wire neatly ziptied for pulling out pump or switch.
       As far as float switches, my personal experience w/ the most expensive "enclosed" floats has been horrible. Either it gets clogged and doesn't lift to pump out, or gets clogged and gets stuck in up position and kills battery. My last free standing float was also mounted to a small piece of wood and lasted through the lives of 2 1500gph rule pumps and if i recall 6-7 seasons.
       My complaints about access on my boat are many, and i certainly would guess that a 222 of early seventies wouldn't be much better, unless you've made modifications.. If I had the time and patience, and $ i would reconfigure the whole aft of my boat with good access to bilge, wiring, transom, make some self bailing improvements. BUT also add a second pump for numerous reasons. I'm not an electrical wiz, but someone suggested an inline fuse for pump also, anyone do it this way? I still have a fuse panel on all my accessory switches that will soon be upgraded to a breaker panel. Do new boats get wired w/ and inline fuse to bilge?

[John Jones]

I ripped out the livewell of my '78 so as to have bilge access.  It wasn't big enough for me anyway.  I still have the original hatch in place so it gives me fair access but no matter what kind of gasket I put on it it allows lots of water into the bilge.  I may cut it out and put in a real hatch to reduce the water getting into the bilge.

I put everything on my boat on a battery switch EXCEPT the bilge pumps.  I have an inline fuse holder connected directly to the battery for the bilge pumps.  NOT the cheapie twist type fuse holders.  These are okay if you fill them full of dielectric grease before putting it together.


http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... artial/0/0

[ddd222]

hey jj, what did u do to reinforce the splashwell where the livewell used to be? Its seems that the livewell was the structure the would hold the weight of anyone standing back there?

[GoneFission]

If you are going to install an inline fuse or circuit breaker, put it in front of the switch and make sure you either use a switch with an indicator light, or install an indicator light near the switch to show power is on.  This way, if the fuse blows, you will know it - before the bilge fills up with water and you're wondering "what the $%#@!"   :x

Also tape a spare fuse (or two) to the line near the inline fuse so you have one nearby - when the fuse blows, it seems you never can find a replacement.  

I know some folks have questioned the reliability of push-button circuit breakers, but the quality and reliability of them has improved a lot in the past few years.  The problem in the past was usually related to corrosion.  Most parts are stainless now, and corrosion resistance has improved.  When you put a clear neoprene boot over them, you have both a waterproof resettable breaker and an indication of the trip.  So here's what I suggest (my $0.02) - a panel-mount push-button circuit breaker with a waterproof boot, then a on-off-auto bilge pump switch, then the pump (and a LED panel light to show power if the switch does not have one).  This eliminates the need for the fuse and replacements and gives a quick indication of the pump status.  The push button circuit breakers are less than $10 - make sure to get the ones with the boots included - as the boots cost almost as much as the breaker when you buy them separately.

[John Jones]

I built a small grid of expoxy coated 3/4 plywood strips about 3" wide.  This was attached underneath with thickened epoxy and long SS screws with finish washers from the top.  It does not give when stepped on.

Here are some in-progress pics of what I have now.  I'm not making finished pics because it's still not finished and it's sitting along side a neighbors pecan tree and it's nasty and fills up with leaves daily.  

Here is the normal access that I have now.


I also reinforced the hatch lid with some beveled 3/4 ply and epoxy.


If I have serious bilge or maybe transom work to do, the entire area outlined in red comes out by removing a bunch of screws and cutting the caulking.


Just be advised that getting the live well out is a biatch.  The back wall of the livewell was glued to the transom with resin.  You WILL destroy the livewell tub getting it out if it is like mine was.