Intro - hi folk!

[Manateescott]

I uploaded some pictures to the "gallery" - didn’t figure out yet how to insert in the "post" - I'll follow on that procedure later.

I posted a picture of rigging for Bob,  is this what you need to ID it as one you worked on?

Took longer to get out of the water and on the trailer then I hoped - didn’t get to drilling any test holes yet - but confirmed what I thought I was seeing - there is distinctly more gap at the top of engine bracket than I remember - 1/16 to 1/8th - I don't think I ever saw daylight here before - gap opens 1/32th to 1/16 when I wiggle the motor - also bounces on the trailer so I'll have to get a jack under the trailer so I can really see if the transom moves.  (posted a picture)

I also think I see some curvature on the top cap - cap has distinct crack - motor mount bolt in the well looks indented, which I don't remember seeing in the past - also posted a picture.

I may still go out this evening and set-up my flood lights and do some drilling - I have a feeling the neighbors might as well get use to me working in the driveway now.....I think this turning into my spring project, and they likely have cloud of fiberglass dust coming their way and some late nights.  I’m new to FL in the last few years and this was to be my spring to learn to tarpon fish!

[Manateescott]

I did some more investigating this evening - not happy.  Time to move my posts to rebuild/project catagory:

Drilled some holes - mush and water:



Took off top cap:



Poked at it:

[seabob4]

Ouch!!!

Thank you bean counters.  And 10 to 1 (though it doesn't help you now) I know exactly who was to blame for your ply transom!!! :evil:  :evil:  :evil:

[gran398]

Ouch X2.

That sucks.

Bob, maybe you can e-mail him the images

[Manateescott]

No surprise about the rot - there literally was no cap - two pieces of plastic glued together - water has had a field day for more than a few days

So - now I'm looking for advise:

Is poured transom a reasonable option - I'm concerned about how I'd get the cavity empty and clean to either of the motor well with out messing up the "platform" - seems pretty clear that anywhere I can access the top cap,  I can clear the cavity - running a chain saw in the cavity looks like a blast. : ,  but don't know how I get to it all without messing up the "platform".

I've seen images where they cut off the rear "skin" and reuse it - can I really leave enough to reattach with transom this small?

I'm a skilled DYI - but have limited experience with laying up fiberglass - hole patching on a jet ski.  Should I even consider taking this on?  My concern is getting a reasonable cosmetic finish at the end.

I want to use this boat for few more years - then want to trade to something with 4-stroke.

[seabob4]

Scott,
You can definitely cut the outer "skin" off and reuse it.  Cut it so you leave 1" of glass remaining all the way around, rid your transom of the offending rotten wood, fab a new transom using marine ply properly encapsulated, then glass the skin back on.  Yeah, there's a little more to it than that, but in a nutshell, that's what to do.

You can try and keep the transom cavity, but hollowing it out and getting all the old nasty stuff out of there is gonna be a beetch...and the worst of the old is at the lowest point.  Plus from what I understand, 2-part pourfoam like Seacast or what have you is pricey.

I just did the same on my little Sea Sprite.  Full width transom, but same concept.  Cut the old out leaving about an inch all the way around, built a new one using 2 layers of 3/4" marine ply, glassed it in, used 3/8" marine play as an outer "skin", then will finish glassing and gel coat it.  Solid as a rock, but I did add knees...

[bondobill]

At this point it don't matter who you blame it on....whether it was a owner delegated
"bean counter "  or who ever   ....  it ain't going to help you get your transom rebuilt.
 I did a poured transom on my 222 by removing the rear skin.
That was a few years back..and let me tell ya......
If I can do it anyone can  

Bill

[Manateescott]

Bob - any other areas of major structural concern that I should worry about,  now that I know how the transom was treated?

I'm not sure of the right terms with this style transom - the lower part of the hull,  on the same plane as the transom,  where the bilge drain and trim tabs are mounted - is that built like the transom or is that all glass?  Can I be confident that I don't have plywood in the stringers?

I know I have a least one soft spot on the floor - between the seat pedestal and the fish box - is it practical to fix soft spots without removing and replacing the entire floor?

Thanks for your input.

Scott

[wingtime]

Transom should be plywood all the way down. Wood in the deck and top of the cap.  Stringers are foam filled glass.