Spent The Money-No Return

[floridamisser52]

I've got a 1998 175 A/S with the same year 90 hp evenrude crossflow . Just replaced the sending unit and removed all the gas in the process, some was contaminated. A few cups were really milky , but a memory now.  
   Here's my issue now. After running strong on my remote tank I hook it up to the below deck tank and it won't fill the inline water / fuel separator. I've got the small Racor S2-502 with the plastic bowl . Do I just back flush the line with compressed air? Just not sure what a good game plan would be. Put a bunch of fuel in and just can't access it. Thanks to all in advance and I hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving

[seabob4]

First, have you replaced the primer bulb?  And no, you don't want to locate the bulb before the separator, the separator keeps crap out of your bulb as well as your motors.  A good bulb will weasily pull fuel through the separator and on to the motor.  Did you fill the separator cannister before you screwed it on?  This will help a lot...

[Georgie]

Did you fill the separator cannister before you screwed it on? This will help a lot...

X2!

Second, make sure the "exit" end of the primer bulb is higher than the "entrance" and.  Sometimes the anti-siphon balls in the primer bulbs are fickle and having the engine side of the bulb elevated always helps.  Be patient and keep pumping.  Sometimes it takes quite a while to get the fuel all the way from the tank to the racor, fill the racor, and then the rest of the way to the bulb so that the line is fully primed.  You may wish to temporarily remove your engine fitting from the end of the hose so that you will know without a doubt once the line is primed.

If you go through this entire process and STILL can't get the line primed, then the next logical problem would be a vacuum leak (aka split, crack, puncture, poorly seated hose clamp, etc.) in your fuel line somewhere.

[floridamisser52]

What an amazing forum. One can get decades of experience in a couple of data bursts. Thanks for the quick response and informative reply.
    I did replace the entire hose and primer bulb. And no , I did not fill the Racor or the hose to the primer bulb, but it makes total sense along with taking gas fitting off the line going to the motor. I guess that little primer bulb needs all the help it can get. Thanks again for the help and I'll post follow up results.

[wingtime]

As mentioned a primer bulb works best when gravity gives it an assist.  This is especially important if the bulb is bone dry.  Holding the bulb with the arrow pointing straight up while priming allows gravity to help hold the little check balls seated.  To be honest I had been boating for years before I heard this tip.  I was shocked at how much easier, and faster it made priming the fuel system.  Also buying a Mercury or OMC/BRP bulb helps too since they just seem to be built better.

[fitz73222]

Also after filling the Racor, take the fuel connector off or push in on the spring loaded plunger in the fuel connector with a pencil or small Phillips and hold it in a glass jar to purge the air out of the system as you squeeze the bulb until a steady stream of fuel exits. The trapped air won't allow it to prime as you pump the bulb.

[MarshMarlowe196]

I had this same problem recently. All good suggestions. Another little trick is to disconnect the fuel line from the primer bulb on the exit end of the bulb (disconnect the hose running to the engine from the primer bulb).  Then, squeeze the bulb until it's compressed completely, and while the bulb is compressed, plug the exit end of the bulb with your finger, then let go of the primer bulb while keeping the exit end plugged and allow it to return to it's original shape.  Unplug the bulb and repeat.  Do this a few times until you get fuel flowing.  Then reconnect the fuel hose.  This worked for me.

[Bergertime]

x2 on the thumb method mentioned.  That was the only way I could easily get mine primed when starting with an empty racor unit.  Have done it twice with this way..  it works. :)

B

[futch13]

Just on a side note, when you fill the new filter with fuel, add a half bottle of Mercury Quickkleen to the filter also.  Once you have it primed, crank the motor and let it run for a few minutes to get the mixture thru the fuel system, add the rest of the bottle to the fuel tank.  You would be amazed at the difference in running characteristics, even on a motor you thought was running good.

Can't believe I recommended a Mercury product :shakeshead:    

[fitz73222]

Just on a side note, when you fill the new filter with fuel, add a half bottle of Mercury Quickkleen to the filter also.  Once you have it primed, crank the motor and let it run for a few minutes to get the mixture thru the fuel system, add the rest of the bottle to the fuel tank.  You would be amazed at the difference in running characteristics, even on a motor you thought was running good.

Can't believe I recommended a Mercury product :shakeshead:    

Futch I had high hopes for me and you until you spoke poorly about the best designed engines ever built with a couple of hiccups since 1939! It's my day off so I was at the ramp about 2 hours ago working on my 1000 hour 60 bigfoot for her first carb rebuild and her first re-sync since i bought her new in '98; just lucky I guess! Anyway, an elderly gentleman approached me walking his pooch, sat down while I set idle speed and timing while on the trailer at the ramp and he began to tell me about racing hydroplanes in Manhatten long ago and that he still had his 1951 Super Hurricane 10 with factory quicky lower and tower, ported with Quincy exhaust sitting in his garage. So I began to work through what it would take to pry this engine away from him. I offered my girlfriend and 10 minutes in the palmetto patch + $300 and he said he was going to give it to his son in law to sit it in his livingroom. I told him his son in law wasn't worth a and would not appreciate the heritage as much as I would. I guess i need to start shopping for a new girlfriend....Damn!

[futch13]

    Farley   "If you wanna go fast, buy a Merc, If you wanna get home..."  

They all make 1000+ hr motors if they are setup right, used and maintained!!  The thing I like about Yammi's is there is very little electrical that goes bad on them that you would call "normal maintenance"  ie. stator, powerpack, switchbox.  Although...can I put this is EXTREMELY little letters so no one can read it... the new ETEC's are starting to change my mind.  An air compressor on a motor????? and now they are putting a muffler on the intake??? LMAO!!  

Sorry I digress...

Anyhow, as said above, all the motors today are good but they have to be maintained and used.