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Classic AquaSport
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Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter
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Anchors, Power Anchors (Power Pole and Talon) and Windlass
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anchor management
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Topic: anchor management (Read 1279 times)
October 21, 2013, 03:39:27 PM
Read 1279 times
adaptolife
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Posts:
35
anchor management
«
on:
October 21, 2013, 03:39:27 PM »
Putting together the anchor equipment for the Osprey 200. Starting with 150' of 3/8" New England anchor rode with 6' plastic-coated acco chain. Have a fluke anchor and a river anchor. The anchor locker is huge, and I would like to have a way of containing the anchor and rode. I would like to store other stuff there. Any ideas?
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Greg
1993 Aquasport Osprey 200
A bad day fishing beats a great day at work
October 21, 2013, 03:58:03 PM
Reply #1
gran398
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Purgatory
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7440
Re: anchor management
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Reply #1 on:
October 21, 2013, 03:58:03 PM »
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October 21, 2013, 04:45:49 PM
Reply #2
JoseGaspar
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Re: anchor management
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Reply #2 on:
October 21, 2013, 04:45:49 PM »
Nothing to contribute other than to say that is a great name for a boat.
JG
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October 21, 2013, 08:20:39 PM
Reply #3
seabob4
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Rigging Master
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9087
Re: anchor management
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Reply #3 on:
October 21, 2013, 08:20:39 PM »
Sort of along Scotty's line but a bit sturdier, a milk crate would work very well also. Hell, they worked great for my old LPs...
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Corner of 520 and A1A...
October 21, 2013, 09:07:24 PM
Reply #4
wingtime
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3581
Re: anchor management
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Reply #4 on:
October 21, 2013, 09:07:24 PM »
I use a milk crate for my 170. Fernando uses one too.
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1998 Explorer w/ Etec 250
1987 170 w/ Evinrude 90
October 21, 2013, 09:19:07 PM
Reply #5
gran398
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Re: anchor management
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Reply #5 on:
October 21, 2013, 09:19:07 PM »
A milk crate works great with a moderate amount of line. The fish baskets work good for a longer rode.
The big-boy commercial grade gray model fish basket is beefier....but may be more difficult to wedge/install/conform to your space.
All recommendations drain easily, are all poly, and won't rust or corrode.
Round is a plus when deploying/feeding line. Depends on where you are, amount of scope, and ease of use.
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October 21, 2013, 09:45:35 PM
Reply #6
Capt Matt
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Master Rebuilder
Posts:
791
Re: anchor management
«
Reply #6 on:
October 21, 2013, 09:45:35 PM »
How deep is the water you generally anchor in?
150ft is a lot of rope to tangle if you fish in less than 10ft most of the time
I have 25ft of rope on my seaclaw anchor with a 3ft stainless chain and a float bouy
The bouy is rigged on a stainless clip so I can pitch it if I have to chase a fish ie: tarpon
then I carry 50ft of rope with a clip on if I'm heading offshore I have 100ft of rope with a clip
When anchoring in deeper water just unclip the bouy and clip in the right amount of rope for the depth
Milk crates work great, most of my anchoring is off the stern so I keep the anchor with short rode and bouy in my fish basket
A fish basket is just handy to have, I use it every day from dumping my bait from the castnet in it so I can sort it before it goes in the live well, then it serves as a trash can then I use it to carry my days catch to the fillet table.
Capt Matt
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www.captmattmitchell.com
Light tackle sportfishing
October 27, 2013, 01:13:00 PM
Reply #7
adaptolife
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35
Re: anchor management
«
Reply #7 on:
October 27, 2013, 01:13:00 PM »
I wound up using a 5 gallon nursery pot. It is easy to crush in order to get thru hatch. Drain holes were already in the bottom, and a hole saw made a bunch more. A 14# river anchor, 6' of coated chain and 150' of anchor rode fills it halfway. As soon as I can add some hooks, I'll store dock lines along the sides.
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Greg
1993 Aquasport Osprey 200
A bad day fishing beats a great day at work
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Classic AquaSport
/
Aquasport Mechanicals - things that need a wrench, screwdriver or multimeter
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Anchors, Power Anchors (Power Pole and Talon) and Windlass
/
anchor management
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