79 Aqua 222 470 without spark

[AQUA222]

This is the sole reason I joined as a member here at classic AS.  I have a 79 (I think) 22-2 Family fisherman with an I/O combo.  I bought a used 470 mercruiser with a matching alpha one gen one with very little original hours.  My problem is that it ran great in the garage on a pallet hot wired and now it is in the boat and I cant get it to run.  I have done all the obvious things like points condenser coil gap at points fresh fuel and have no spark, no voltage at the coil.  I think I remember seeing somewhere of a cutout switch. could I have a bad ground? What would change from the pallet to the boat?  Can a voltage regulator, ballast resistor or voltage regulator be preventing me from getting spark?  I also read that the ballast resistor steps down the voltage after the motor is running but starts the motor 12 volts.  Other posts within this forum state the coil then has a stepped down voltage of about 8.  I have been testing everything with a voltage meter and am getting frustrated.  I had a guy scheduled to look at it today and he never showed up.  I live in southeastern CT and am open to all suggestions (other that get rid of the motor) Help!!

[fitz73222]

First Welcome,

The 470 was an excellent Mercury vision that ran very well. 4 cylinders and 170HP @ 5500 rpm if I remember. It was a Mercury block that shared various components from GM and Ford. The heartbeat was a Ford Tractor crankshaft and a cylinder head borrowed from a 460 cu in V8. Does yours have a closed cooling system? Young Asswaf400 (Aaron) on our forum; his father has a Searay powered by twins of your engine and I believe he is contemplating a repower of his 20 ft CC with your engine. None the less, I would try to hot wire it as you did on the pallet and try to light it off and then work backwards from there. The reverse cut out switch could be a good place to start. Jump the switch and see if she lights off, then check point gap and see if you are getting fire from the coil. Its pretty basic ignition so disconnect the engine harness and jump it. If she wants to light up look for a bad keyswitch, resistor if so equipped. So let Aaron give some insight into this problem. He is a 470 guy with a Ford background. Calling all Aaron...

[AQUA222]

I really appreciate the feedback.  It gave me hope that I haven't had in quite some time.  I do have the closed cooling system.  I will work backwards like you said and see if she goes.

[dburr]

Welcome aboard!!!

X2 what Farley said about the neutral cut out.. Really easy to mess up when rigging those, they are super touchy and it can be activated with just a little misalignment on the cam..  I would rule that out then work my way up the harness..

[fitz73222]

I really appreciate the feedback.  I gave me hope that I haven't had in quite some time.  I do have the closed cooling system.  I will work backwards like you said and see if she goes.

That's why we're here... I'll PM Aaron to get him up to speed.

[Geckert3611]

do you have a resistor on this setup? I think that is what it was called anyway. I know that was my problem. It was a little square box type thing
 that knocks the 12v down to 6v a must do for an older points set up. or so I was told and a 15.00 part made mine all good.

[Aswaff400]

hmmm... i wouldnt really know where to start, when we built our motors, we ripped all of the old ignition parts out, points, stator, voltage regulator, and swapped in new electronic ignition and standard style alternators

i havent worked on ours in quite a while, i do know that with the alternators wiring the motors where fairly simple, and the electronic ignition wasnt all that expensive. i may have to pull the starboard motor as it has developed a slight knock from the top end on #3 or 4 cyl...

i have a complete 170/470 that is 1989 or 1990 at my work, i can post pics this weekend of the wiring on it if you want.

[GoneFission]

My $.02 - go down to AutoZone or go online (Summit Racing) and get an electronic ignition replacement for the condenser/points.  It will be the best $50 you spend.  Better starts, no maintenance, better fuel economy, and once you set the timing - it stays put.  Just make a note of what kind of distributor you have so you get the right kit.    

Also, once you get it running, don't wind it too tight.  The pistons are vulnerable on these motors.    
Good luck!

[wingtime]

ditching the points and swapping in electronic ignition module is a SMART move.

[AQUA222]

I actually had purchased the electronic ignition conversion and returned it becase to box said 8 cyl only.  Maybe ill try it.  I will let you guys know how it goes.

[AQUA222]

so I did not try the electronic ignition yet but I did get spark.  Wiggled a few wires, did continuity testing on EVERYTHING and checked for voltage everywhere.  One time I was checking for spark at the coil and had it. It was a Christmas miracle!!  So this it what I found out..... The point mount retaining screw had been stripped out by the previous owner and upon ever revolution the point gap would open well past it .022 recommended gap setting.  I am assuming this is why I get spark sometimes. Good thing is there is hope because for the first time since the motor has been in the boat I had a backfire!  I love backfires because  to me it means compression and ignition and fuel.  Im giving up on getting it in the water but am not going to give up on the boat.  I will post pics soon she is clean clean clean.  Does anyone know where I can get a distributor point plate and set screw???  Thanks for all your input previously I will keep this as up to date as I can.

[Aswaff400]

ill see if we still have any of the old ignition stuff. i know we have a spare dizzy in the garage. ill check tomorrow

[GoneFission]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pertronix-Ignit ... 7e&vxp=mtr