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Author Topic: Cloth advice  (Read 505 times)

August 04, 2013, 11:28:04 AM
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OldSkool67

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Cloth advice
« on: August 04, 2013, 11:28:04 AM »
Ive been having a heck of a time getting the 1808 to wrap around the stringers and bulk heads. Im getting ready to start building out the rest of the bulk heads and need to have a better fit and finish in these areas. Needs to be strong still but easier to mold then the 1808. I don't have a variety of stuff laying around so I will have to order something in and I would really not like to waste any time or money on something that's not going to work. Help :!:
Ive never met an alligator I didnt want to turn into a wallet and side of nuggets.

67 flatback

August 04, 2013, 11:49:03 AM
Reply #1

dburr

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Re: Cloth advice
« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2013, 11:49:03 AM »
What has helped me in the past is a piece of 6 or 8 mil poly with battens on the edges.  This rig is pulled over the radius either pulling on the battens with tape or twine or weighted with a mix of dive weights, old window sash weights and used lead flashing..
Cheaper then vacuum bagging.  The results are the best when you can put pressure on the full radius, it doesn't take much pressure either to keep the cloth down.

Not the answer you were looking for but might help making due with what you have.  The poly pulls right off the glass (at least it does with epoxy) when the cure is done...
Dave

88 222 Osprey
00 Yamaha OX66 150
CAS # 2590

August 04, 2013, 11:58:39 AM
Reply #2

Callyb

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Re: Cloth advice
« Reply #2 on: August 04, 2013, 11:58:39 AM »
Ryan, I assume you are using 1.5 inch foam for these parts? 1808 is some pretty heavy stuff, I would recommend 3 layers of 12 oz biaxial (45 degree) overlapping each layer for your tabbing. Not only is it easier to work,but it will be plenty strong, and depending on how many layers of the 1808 you were going with, it should be a lot less resin and weight in the end too.
Carl
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1966 22-2 Flatback w/diver door (perpetual rebuild) w/Mercury 150

1997 Osprey 245 w/Twin 150 Evinrudes

August 04, 2013, 12:39:23 PM
Reply #3

RickK

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Re: Cloth advice
« Reply #3 on: August 04, 2013, 12:39:23 PM »
Yeah the cloth with the mat built in is tough on corners - I make sure I put a BIG fillet of putty where it mates to surfaces and that helps the transition (hints from the Master Rebuilders). I use 17 & 1808 and they're a challenge sometimes.  I haven't used any of the foam products but I imagine if you round off the corners it should help. I also use the DB170 product from http://www.uscomposites.com/specialty.html in some apps - not as thick so it'll transition easier. The advice from the members above would also help.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

August 04, 2013, 11:22:22 PM
Reply #4

gman 82 aquasport

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Re: Cloth advice
« Reply #4 on: August 04, 2013, 11:22:22 PM »
It would be a real PITA to get 1808 or 1708 to go over 1.5 inch foam even with some radius to it :o , have you thought about using a lesser weight cloth, say 6 oz and using a couple of layers running different directions even angled , could be a lot easier to get it to hold shape that way..I know it would take more time and maybe more material, but resin usage would not be that different, as lighter cloth uses less resin...strenght should be about the same once layer build up equaled the thicker cloth ..just thinking with my fingers :salut:
1982 19-6 Osprey
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August 05, 2013, 12:54:10 PM
Reply #5

dirtwheelsfl

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Re: Cloth advice
« Reply #5 on: August 05, 2013, 12:54:10 PM »
Should be able to put a big enough radius on 1.5" material to wrap it no problem. A 3/4 roundover on a router should work fine.   Prewet everything, lay the glass on top and just use gloves and hands to pull it down. Then hardroll from the top of the radius down each side...

 

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