1985 Johnson 120hp questions

[jwburkert]

I have been working on my motor and hopefully someone can either help or shed some light on how to solve my problem.
The problem is on cold start on my first two outings the motor took me a good 15min plus to get started once started it runs great and restarts without problem.

I have today installed a new fuel line bulb and spark plugs. This seems to have solved the fifteen mins. of cranking since it now starts right up. (I thought it wasn't getting gas and I appear to have been correct on that one)

Now the problem is getting to run at a idle once it is started cold. I starts revs high starts to settle down into idle and then just quits. ??

Also is there any way to rev. it up and down the control doesn't seem to allow anything but neutral, reverse and forward.

Thanks

[seabob4]

Is there a button on the side of the shift lever that when pushed in allows throttle only?  Also some of the older binnacles had a knob at the back end that you pulled out to disengage the shift mechanism...

[gran398]

They have a lift lever to rev in neutral....lifts from the back....on the horizontal top plate of the shifter.

[Curious]

What kind of control do you have?  Is it a binnacle mount (cables enter from below,control mounts to a horizontal surface) or a side mount (screws into a vertical side bulkhead).  If it is a side mount, the lever at the top rear as gran mentioned increases the idle in neutral.  If it is a binnacle mount, there should either be a button to disengage the shifter or I have an ancient one on my Wellcraft that requires you to pull the base of the handle out to disengage from the gear then you can push it forward or back to increase the throttle without putting it in gear.

Might be time to clean the carbs?  Did you winterize it or leave it sitting for a while without stabilizer?

[Mikerodrig27]

How does it run in gear at idol? does it sneeze, cough, or does it just die off? The idol fuel adjustment could be off. really probably needs a good carburetor cleaning before messing with all of this. With my 60 degree johnson, I can start it after sitting for a couple weeks after about 5 seconds of cranking the starter. Then I just let it idol. Never rev these engines past 3000rpm in gear. Also, it's not good to rev them when the engines are cold due to the metals not being expanded to their running tolerances yet.

Also, do a compression test. If the compression looks good, it would be worth investing in the omc manual for it. They have all the specs on tuning and cleaning maintaining that you need. They also have a good troubleshooting guide.

[jwburkert]

Picture of control enclosed. You can't see it well in the photos but I have been a little concerned about the wrapping of electrical tape on the control shaft LOL.

To answer some of the questions I was told when I bought the boat that compression was good in all 4 cylinders, I have not double checked to be sure. However once I get it started it runs great no coughing, etc. runs smooth and hits 34 MPH according to the GPS. Idles ok also specs in the manual I bought say (if I remember correctly ) 400 to 600 RPMs, again I have not put a tach to it but it sounds like it is in that range. Starts up fine once it has been started.

going to hook it up today and see if I can get it gning

Thanks for the help so far guys.

[wingtime]

I'd say with that type of binnacle you pull the lever out to the left to disengage the shifter allowing you to adjust only the throttle without shifting.   The electrical tape is probably just there to hold the trim wires in place.   If the boat was mine the first things I would service on the motor is the carbs, water pump, and the thermostats.  This way you don't have to worry about a lean cylinder and overheating the motor.

[jwburkert]

Today hooked it and it turned over on the first try, but as before it revs up but when it goes to settle down to an idle it quits.  When on the water I have to do this numerous time but it will finialy go to on idle and will allow me to go into rev. Or forward.

[Dhadley]

Make sure the T-stats are there and working correctly. Champion plugs, fresh 87 octane fuel and a good oil like XD50 will all help but the T-stat thing in important.

[Georgie]

Wingtime's response X2.  That control is a binnacle and pulls straight towards the port side of the boat at the lever pivot point near the bottom. That's how you access neutral but still be able to adjust the throttle.  Pretty much essential for starting cold, old, OMC engines.

[jwburkert]

I may be doing something wrong but try as I might I can not get any other motion for the control other than backward and forward I.e. to change gear and throttle up.

[slvrlng]

I have the same control on my boat and you have to pull it to the left to disengage the shifter cable. Spray WD40 down in between the lever and base and it should help to free it up. I usually have to grab the top of the lever and the base and pull as mine has been soaked in salt for so many years. PB blaster might help also. If you cannot get it to move after this it might be time to pull the whole thing and try from the backside with the cables undone. Mine moves over about 3/8" inch when it slides just to give you an idea of how much movement is required. Make sure you have it in neutral when you try to slide it over.

[slvrlng]

Here is a pic of mine. Look at the top of the lever as mine still has the instructions on it. If you look close I think it is actually in neutral with the handle moved over. Mine, when we first got it, would stick in the control box but now I spray it every now and then and it does fine.

[jwburkert]

Thanks for the info helps a lot will give it a try later today

[jwburkert]

WD40 worked


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