New electronics and rewire.

[alandry100]

So I listened to Seabob and others and got a blue seas fuse block. I did not get new switches but will soon. I plan to rewire the nav and running lights and the bilge, also picked up a Lowrance Elite 5, VHF, and Stereo. I have a rigging question though - should I wire the chartplotter, VHF, and stereo directly to the battery (that is what is recommended by the VHF). My instinct is to run them all to the block, if so what size fuses should be used? Should I cut out the in line fuses or make them redundant (redundant means more trouble shooting if something goes wrong). Also how should I tie and secure the wiring to the inside of the console. I was thinking something with screws but the console is thin, do not want to poke through.

I think the VHF and the stereo will be mounted on the "shelf" in the console.

[seabob4]

So I listened to Seabob and others and got a blue seas fuse block. I did not get new switches but will soon. I plan to rewire the nav and running lights and the bilge, also picked up a Lowrance Elite 5, VHF, and Stereo. I have a rigging question though - should I wire the chartplotter, VHF, and stereo directly to the battery (that is what is recommended by the VHF). My instinct is to run them all to the block, if so what size fuses should be used? Should I cut out the in line fuses or make them redundant (redundant means more trouble shooting if something goes wrong). Also how should I tie and secure the wiring to the inside of the console. I was thinking something with screws but the console is thin, do not want to poke through.

I think the VHF and the stereo will be mounted on the "shelf" in the console.

No, wire the electronics to the fuse block, cut out the in-lines, and use the same amperage fuses as were in the in-lines.

They sell tie-wrap mounts with the adhesive backing...but they rarely stick with any kind of weight (wires) on them.  I use PVC board I buy at HD and secure it to the sides with Bondo Resin Jelly, get it at wally world for $12.50 per quart.  Here is an example...



Note where the ground bus is located, on PVC board bonded to the side of the console...

[alandry100]

Nice - thanks for the reply. Since I am using the Blue Seas fuse box with grounds I will not need a separate bus, correct?

[kraw2]

Use the PVC board to attach anything you need...

[kraw2]

If you can put a ground buss in a more convienent location thats what I did. Keeps from running all the grounds around everything to get to the fuse panel. I don't have a picture on the PC.

1976 170

[alandry100]

Nice - going to get that stuff tomorrow - hopefully have it done this week - will post pictures.

[alandry100]

On another note - picking up a float for my bilge pump - I was thinking about a Water Witch - anyone here had any experience? If not one of those, I will get a Rule and "waterproof" it as suggested here by another member. I hope the previous wiring was set up correctly.

Now that I am getting into it I realize that I don't know anything about wiring. I think that once I start wiring it will become clear - hopefully.

Thanks for all the help - you guys are really helpful - the pictures are great, for someone like me a picture is really worth a thousand words - as I am working on the electrical vocabulary:)

Also - seabob - Why Bondo resin and not 5200?

[alandry100]

Snuck out between downpours today to instal the Water Witch bilge switch. Attached to an old through hull transducer - good for something. I almost fried the unit though - it needs to be attached to the positive side of the circuit. I read it but did not think to check - until just before I connected - checked, and sure enough it was on the negative side - switched it out and presto. Seems to work great.



Here are some photos of inside the console - VHF will be on the right, stereo in the middle or flush mounted where the holes are cut and covered. If anyone has ideas for that I would welcome them. Replacing circuit block with Blue Seas fuse block.

[seabob4]

On another note - picking up a float for my bilge pump - I was thinking about a Water Witch - anyone here had any experience? If not one of those, I will get a Rule and "waterproof" it as suggested here by another member. I hope the previous wiring was set up correctly.

Now that I am getting into it I realize that I don't know anything about wiring. I think that once I start wiring it will become clear - hopefully.

Thanks for all the help - you guys are really helpful - the pictures are great, for someone like me a picture is really worth a thousand words - as I am working on the electrical vocabulary:)

Also - seabob - Why Bondo resin and not 5200?

5200 would work fine...if you want to apply pressure to the PVC board perpendicularly, than support it from the bottom side...for about 3 days!  According to 3M spec sheets, 5200 Fast cure is tack free in an hour, full cure in 24.  Standard 5200, tack free in 48 hours, full cure 5-7 days...

Resin jelly?  Kicks off in about 15 minutes, excellent adhesion...there's you answer.  I'm not looking for the flexability that 5200 allows, I'm simply looking for a good glue...

[alandry100]

Thanks seabob - I was just going to ask if I needed to drill holes or cut groves in the back of the PVC board to help adhesion. I guess that there is plenty of stick in the Bondo.

[seabob4]

Thanks seabob - I was just going to ask if I needed to drill holes or cut groves in the back of the PVC board to help adhesion. I guess that there is plenty of stick in the Bondo.

Cross hatch sand with 100 grit is what I do do give the PVC grip...

[alandry100]

I'm no seabob but I did get it all working.





I am having trouble with the anchor and nav lights. I got them both working but am can't get them to work the way I want them to.

I have a double pull switch and I want the first stop to be the anchor light and the second stop to be both the anchor light and nav lights. Now the first stop is the anchor light and the second stop is the bow nav light. Do I need a different switch or can I change the wiring?

[Capt. Bob]

SB,
We really need you to post your schematics in our .pdf area of the Resource forum.

Please......

[Capt. Bob]

Do I need a different switch or can I change the wiring?

SB will help you out but until then,



I'm just guessin' this is the type of switch you may have. Look close and you'll see the correct sequence of wiring.
Power is fed to the two (double) poles and feeds the two (double) throws.
Is this what you have?

Maybe this style?
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refere ... witch.html

Future reading.
http://bluesea.com/viewresource/104

In the mean time,
Get a pair of dykes.

Good luck.

[alandry100]

Bob - thanks for the reply - those are helpful.

My switch has 4 inputs on the back though,

Looking at it -
top right is power
top left is nav lights as it is wired
bottom right is anchor lights
and I dont know what bottom left is

On one of the pictures of the inside of the console it is the top switch.

I also have an issue with the all round light. I have an old receptacle and the new perko lights do not have the correct collars. The one I have has the threads on the outside - so the collar needs to have threads on the inside (as many probably know). It works and the pole sort of stays but wouldn't feel comfortable abort it over time. Any ideas on how to retro fit it or if I can get the collar? I love the old look - the new ones are just not the same.