Steering torque not helped with anode fin

[Robob]

I have a 1995 175 Osprey with a 90HP Evinrude. It steers easily to starboard but not to port. I have tweaked the fin under the cavitation plate but it doesn't seem to help.

Would hydraulic steering help and how much would the conversion cost?

Thanks in advance:-)

[slvrlng]

Perhaps the best money I have spent on my boat.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Uflex-PROTECH1- ... 48&vxp=mtr

[fitz73222]

First thing is to make sure you adjusted it in the proper direction but after a little disussion. 4 things have an effect on steering torque.

1) Engine trim angle; this can have a fairly dramatic effect on wheel torque. Trim the engine all the way in, it will pull to port. Trim it out past parallel and the engine will pull to starboard. The balance point (neutral wheel torque) is usually slightly past parallel. Its pretty easy to find the balance point but it depends on load placement in the boat so it can change depending those variables. Do the test with your normal load.

2) Torque tab position. If the engine pulls to port at mid point trim position (engine angle) turn the torque tab to port, so looking at the rear of the engine, turn it to about 7:00 and see if it has any affect. Make small adjustments until you feel any difference. Typically you would not generally go past 8:00 to correct it.

3) Engine height, assuming the engine is at stock position (all the down on top of the transom should be fine. If its jacked up a considerable amount, this can actually cause a starboard pull.

4) Propeller type; I'll assume you are running a stock BRP aluminum or stainless prop without a huge amount of rake. (Angle of the prop blades towards the rear) high rake propellers usually provide more bow lift during higher trim angle. Low rake propellers usually provide more stern lift, which are usually seen on sterndrives. Both have an effect on steering torque.
Hydraulic steering is a nice upgrade and all of my boats have it but you can probably adjust your way out of a wheel torque issue and replace your current system with hydraulic steering when you need too like Lewis did.

[wingtime]

If you choose to upgrade to hydraulic steering you can't beat the Teleflex baystar kit. It is designed for under 150hp outboards.  You should be able to find one for about $500.

With that said I have a 90 hp on my 170 with cable steering. It is pretty easy to steer  while cruising around normally. The only problem is when you given her the gas while making a sharp turn you  have to hold on tight against the torque.

[dburr]

X2 what the boys have said..

Keep in mind with cable steering, while at speed you will essentially have to tuen the boat by trial and error.  Set the speed and trim where you want to run and then move the anode to zero out the force on the steering wheel.  That will be where you get the least pull on the wheel and when set correctly y can run hands free...

But!

Anytime you hammer down you better be holing on..  The only way to fix that is with hydraulic steering.    I can do what I please with the Osprey (hydraulic) the trim anode fell off and I didn't feel it in the steering.  I knew something was amiss because she rode stbd side down and finally figured out why when I tilted the engine up .  The the Sport 15 with a 70 (cable) however, has only one real hands off sweet spot and you make damn sure the engine is straight before you hammer it..

[Curious]

Funny you should ask:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=9230&hilit=steering+pulls

I have been boating for a while and until I asked the question here I had no idea!  Your other option before going hydraulic is the Teleflex NFB (No FeedBack) helm.

[dbiscayne]

The Teleflex No Feed Back systyem does work great, no more torque steer from the engine.  I've got the 4.2 turns lock to lock on mine, 23' boat w/ a 200, turns almost as easily as a hydraulic system without the complication or expense.