Waxing the hull of 2000 215 Osprey Sport DC

[who4ever]

Hi all.  Hope your winters were as mild as mine was here on Long Island.  Should have never taken her out of the water!
So, this is my second year boating.  Have a 2000 215 Osprey dual console.  Went to the marina yesterday to wax the hull.  Was told to do it by hand the first year because a rotary polisher is an acquired feel and if used incorrectly, can damage the hull and the decals.  So I did.  Actually worked out pretty well.  Seems that a rotary toold would be overkill for this boat and I can see it almost certainly damaging the Aquasport decals which are very slightly peeling at the edges in places.  Did about 2/3 of it and figured I'd go down this week and finish the bow section.
A few questions, though.  Is there a difference in the boat material on the hull above and below the gray rubber bumper?  Below the bumper worked out great, she is shining with a great mirror finish.  However, above the gray bumper, I could not get any type of shine.  In fact, I think it looks worse now than before.  I was only working on the side of the boat, not on top where the guard rails are.  I could not polish out the wax no matter how quickly I got to it.  Is this the same material as on the cabin floor (anti slip?)  If so, then I do not wax it right?  I just clean it as best as I can?  And again, if this is true, how would you suggest removing the wax I just put on so I can make it look like it did before?
And another thing, can anyone suggest an easy way to remove the old NYS registration sticker so I can apply the new one?  I have heard to use a heat gun or hair dryer.  I brought down a small 1600W hair dryer, but that didn't do much.  I don't want to use a paint stripper gun for fear of damaging the boat.  My friend said use lighter fluid or acetone.  This sould OK with you?  Most people told me to just put the new sticker on top of the old one, but the perfectionist in me doesn't like that solution.  What have you done to get old registration stickers off?
And one more.  When I finally get inside the boat to to a spring cleanup, do I use was anywhere or just clean it as best as possible, and with what?
Thanks, and smooth sailing.
Dave Schwartz

[pete]

Hey Dave,welcome.
The problem you are having with the waxing is that the hull does not get the full sun that the topsides get and is always easier to wax.The only way to do the topside area is with a rotary buffer and and marine grade compound like shurhold buff magic or similar product.Start slow with the buffer,just enough speed to work the product and use a spray bottle with some water in it to mist the area as you go.Do a small section at a time and you will get the hang of it.Wax after compounding.
The stickers are another story,I use a plastic scraper,never metal and slowly work them off,its a real PIA,the acetone will help to get off the glue residue.just take your time with it,the hair dryer may help to soften the glue.good luck!
 

[gran398]

Yep, welcome Dave, pete has given you great advice.

One thing though...you were given bad info at the marina about the buffer. Your boat is gelcoat, not Awlgrip (paint)...you can push on the buffer just as hard as you want, you won't hurt that gel.

Maybe they said they didn't advise you DIY, but they should do it?  $$$$$

 

[Capt. Bob]

You may want to look into this product.
http://www.prestaproducts.com/Ultra_Cut ... tails.aspx

They also have a "Gel Coat Compound".
http://www.prestaproducts.com/Gel_Coat_ ... tails.aspx

 I have used both in combination (though the creme works well for most medium oxidation).

You can apply by hand (SOP for really tight spots) but it's a lot of rubbing and the result while OK is nowhere near the one you will obtain with a buffer.

http://www.harborfreight.com/7-inch-ele ... erralID=NA

This is a "use it once" device but mine just keeps on running. Currently this is a good price and will do the exact same job as a much more expensive brand. If you're going to get into the boat detailing/gel restoration business, spend the big $$$$ but for your personal boat, this will work fine. A Mothers power ball polishing device cost about the same and you supply the drill so this is a no-brainer IMHO.

Good luck.

[johnnylisa]

I second what Capt. Bob said about the Harbor Freight polisher. This is the model I bought a little while back.  A bit cheaper, but still going strong: http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tool ... 92623.html

     There are a number of members here that have vastly more experience than I do, but I thought I'd post with my experiences since I was in the same boat (pun intended) last year that you're in now.

     I have a 1998 215DC and have been learning as I go about cleaning and waxing with the help of some very good online posts.  I have been using 3M compound followed by Shurhold Buff Magic (which I like a lot more than 3M Finesse It), with a final coat of Starbrite polish and wax.  Everyone has their favorites, and I'm not sure that any of the available products are that much superior to their competitors.  I went with those that had a combination of favorable reviews and ready availability.  Whatever you use, don't bother with the tie-on bonnets they sell for the polisher/buffers.  Invest in a good quality wool pad that attaches to the backing pad with velcro.  The tie-on bonnets are cheap at HF, but they don't hold up and you can't use them on their edge for tight spots.  Wish I knew that from the start - I've gotten far better results with my 3M wool pads with a LOT less frustration.  Taking off easily removable hardware (snaps, rod holders, etc) on the boat also makes the job go much faster.  

         My 215 had the usual chalky appearance from oxidation.  I found that many others that have posted on the subject before are exactly right - you need some form of compound with a rotary buffer to really cut the oxidation.  I was concerned as well about using a buffer on the boat without any prior experience and possibly doing some damage, but it has been fine.  I've used the buffer at a moderate speed using the pad's edge with a fair amount of pressure and have done no damage to the gelcoat whatsoever.   To alleviate concerns about doing damage, some have suggested starting with the pad flat until you're comfortable with it and then moving to using the pad's edge.  

       The most important thing to keep in mind is that straight wax is only a protective coating - by itself it doesn't produce a mirror like finish like compounds or polishes.  You need to get a finish you're satisfied with and then apply the wax to protect that finish.  Work your way in steps from a cutting compound down to finshing polish and then wax.  If you apply the compound correctly, you'll be pleased with the difference in appearance, but don't stop there - follow through with the polish and wax.  I've read that stopping after the compound stage will give you a better looking finish, but eventually will oxidize even faster because it leaves microscopic grooves and therefore more surface area to oxidize.  The follow-on polish step smooths out these grooves to eliminate this problem.  Wax then helps block UV rays.  Once you get the hang of it, it doesn't take too long and since I followed through with all the steps I've been much more satisfied with the results I've gotten.

[wingtime]

I bought the Harbor Freight digital buffer as well.  I did get the better velcro style wool pads for it though.  I picked it up to buff a BADLY oxidized 16' boat..  it did that fine and then I did my 24' Explorer and it's still going strong.  The best compound I have used is the Aquabuff 2000.  You can buy it online.

[who4ever]

Thank all of you for your replies.  But I don't know if any of you actually addressed my main question-is the side of the boat above the gray rubber bumper a different material than below the bumper?  Is it a continuation of the anti slip material that is used on the inside of the boat?  If so, than I can't expect to achieve a mirror shine, right?
Also,can I just compound this area by hand?  A rotary buffer seems to be overkill-the width of the area that needs to be worked on is only about 6 inches, although it stretches around the entire boat.
I have no objection to getting the rotary, though.  Is this what I should use to compound and wax the inside?  Just the walls, and under the cushions, right?  The floor only gets cleaned, correct?
Thanks, Dave

[pete]

hey Dave,yes the gel coat is all the same,use the rotary,you cant remove the oxidation by hand,on the deck non skid use a product like woody wax or the starbite deck cleaner :king:

[wingtime]

Dave,  The entire boat is finished with gel coat which is basically a pigmented resin not paint.  Unlike paint gel coat is not shiny on it's own it has to be molded that way or wet sanded and buffed to a high gloss.  The gel coat on the topsides of your boat above the rub rail are exposed to more direct sunlight then the gel coat below the rub rail.  The dull gel coat is oxidized from the sun making it dull and chalky.  The only way to make it shiny again is to remove the oxidized surface and polish the good gel below it.  If the oxidation is minor it can be buffed off with just the rubbing compound and a high speed buffer and then waxed.  It can't be done by hand effectively.  If the oxidation is severe then it has to be removed by wet sanding with a fine sand paper and then polished with a compound.  Be sure to use a compound intended for a boat or RV not for a car.  Good luck!

[who4ever]

Now I get it!

[dburr]

Ok boys, been to HF online and got a buffer coming.. Looking for pads now, any pros/cons 3M vs Meguiars or generic hook and loop style?

Nearly had a stroke at the cost of a 3M kit on Amazon, $119..

 I like CB's recommendation better

[pete]

I've used both the expensive 3m pads and the cheap HF ones,the 3m s are definitely better,they don't "shed" as much but the HF pads will get the job done.We're not talking about a painted surface,gelcoat is alot easier to buff and more forgiving,the key is to work a small area at a time,use a cheap brush to brush the product on the surface and use a spray bottle with water to mist area so product doesnt dry out as fast.

side note,after I kept hearing good things about the collinite waxes I tried their fiberglas boat wax.great shine and easy to apply and take off.....

[dburr]

Thanks Pete!

Good info on the mister, I hadn't thought about that...