Tilt Trim Switch

[RickK]

Yeah I saw the stainless "studs" sitting there in 2 of the 4 holes and I tried to pry it off briefly but gave it up.  Wasn't sure if it was threaded through the binnacle or not.  I have extractors but stainless is tough to do it on - although I have 70% success rate.
Let's see what the mech did - I figure he splices in the sw?

[seabob4]

Shouldn't have to splice anything.  Once you get the binnacle disassembled, the switch simply plugs into the harness via the old Yam bullet connectors, no splicing necessary.  Unplug the old, plug in the new, off to the races...

But I'd do some trouble shooting first.  Bare a section of the red, green, and blue wires, verify continuity between red and green when down is pressed, red and blue when up is pressed...It very well may be one of the wires is broken inside the binnacle, it's not the switch at all...

[seabob4]

When prying off a Yam or Zuke cover, keep in mind the two little screws on both sides of the cover.  You have to free the cover up from them as well...

[Capt. Bob]

Well I took mine apart tonight and took a couple of pics.

On my 91, the throttle "grip" with the switch is a two piece affair held by two machine screws accessed from the back side. No need to remove the bottom cover. The switch is pressed into the outer half of the cover and pushes out easily with the thumb.

The switch itself has a rubber boot that when peeled back exposes two "molex style" connectors, one on each side. Unhooking them allows the switch to be opened.

Here's the switch split open. Look close and you will see the carbon scoring on the contact points.


Rocker switch showing pivot


Rocker contact strip with carbon scoring


Polished contact strip and rocker switch


Not the best photos but I was able to polish off the carbon and then cleaned the contacts with contact cleaner. Added a dab of petrolatum to the pivot point and reassembled. Works like a charm.

[jahoward1]

Damned if I don't have the same problem.  I have a 1997 Johnson 115hp SPL and when I use the switch on the engine, the trim motor will work but the engine gets stuck in the up position.  The trim switch on the throttle does not work at all.  It stopped working at the end of the season last year.  I do not know the technical terms but there is a plastic box in the engine that has relays in it that activate the trim.  I have opened the box and cleaned the corrosion off the wires and the screws and the trim motor worked again but only with the engine switch and only for a short time.  However, the switch on the throttle still will not work.  I will post a picture soon.


James :afro:

[RickK]

Nice pictorial documentation CB.  

Even though I didn't need to open the binnacle cover, see the 4 screws on your binnacle cover - mine have 2 snapped off from the PO   Hope I never need to get in there.

[Capt. Bob]

Even though I didn't need to open the binnacle cover, see the 4 screws on your binnacle cover - mine have 2 snapped off from the PO   Hope I never need to get in there.

You have the same binnacle as mine correct? I believe it's the 704 model.
Your switch is different?

[RickK]

Looks to be the same - you should have posted this a day or two earlier
I needed to figure out the speedo anyway so it needed to go into the shop for that.  Gotta keep the economy moving don't cha know    The mech usually keeps the parts to show me - maybe I'll snag the switch for parts?

[seabob4]

CB, how old is your binnacle?

[Capt. Bob]

CB, how old is your binnacle?

Gonna say circa 1991 cause that's the model year of the motor. That particular switch has been superseded by another model but I have not seen that switch. I'm thinking it probably cannot be disassembled as mine was. Switch fits a multitude of Yamaha controls.

I got lucky with the older version. Just got back in about an hour ago and it worked fine both days. The burnt contacts was the cause.

[seabob4]

Excellent Bob!  And happy Memorial Day!  Although I should imagine it will be a wet one for you guys...