Engine problems. What is this part?

[vonkamp]

I'm trying to get my 95 Johnson OceanRunner 200 running and I was wondering what this and what position it should be in. the red tab rotates counterclockwise and I'm not sure what position it was in when I bumped it changing fuel lines. Anyone know what it is and what position it should be in?

Thanks,
Baron

[Capt. Bob]

I believe it is referred to as the primer solenoid.
It is in the correct position to utilize the function of the solenoid. Turning it 90 degrees should allow you to bypass the solenoid and prime the motor with the squeeze bulb. The solenoid is activated with the ignition key depressed when cranking to start.

At least I think that's correct.

I'm sure one of the piston heads will confirm or deny my failing memory.

[wingtime]

Capt Bob is correct.  That is the primer solenoid AKA fuel enrichment solenoid.  Basically it is a form of electric choke for starting your motor.  When you push in the key while starting or with the key in the on position it allows extra fuel for starting into the carbs.  The lever is a manual bypass in case the solenoid fails or your are trying to pull start the motor due to a dead battery.  The run position is inline with the solenoid like yo have it.  Turning it 90 degrees opens the valve allowing extra fuel to flow into the carbs thru the enrichment circuit.

[vonkamp]

Wow. Thanks, my engine issues could very well be operator error. I am pumping the primer bulb as well as depressing the ignition key. I bet I am flooding it every time I try to start it! I'm off to give it a try, I'll report back...

[Capt. Bob]

Starting mid 90's JohneyRudes is more an art than a science.

They feature the solenoid as well as the "Quick Start" circuit which should make it easy but it often ends up hard.

When warmed up the system works well. My rub with the quick start feature was if you cranked (when warm) the engine (by design) was idled at a higher RPM for a brief time (anytime really after cranking). This was harder (it seemed) on the lower unit if you threw it into gear too soon.

Back to starting.
Squeezing the bulb to pressurize the line is needed when first beginning the cold start procedure. After it (the bulb) firms up, then try (with the red lever as you have it) cranking the engine (that is get her spinning), then depress the key. Cold JRs are best kept alive after firing off by a few quick depressions of the key before they die. This adds extra fuel during this critical time of the cold start but doesn't add excessive amounts to flood the engine resulting in a stall. As stated, it's a "feel" (art) thing that you develop for your particular model. The quick start system has always seemed, IMHO "less efficient" at this stage and in the golden days of outboards was accomplished with a throttle/shift detent button.  In any case, you really don't get much bang for your buck squeezing the primer bulb while cranking (my arms are way too short). That's why you do it first and use the solenoid to channel that pressure.

I may be misunderstanding what you're doing unless you have two guys working the technique.  

Another thing, strictly my opinion of course is that these motors needed to spin rather quickly to generate enough voltage from the stator (I believe that's correct) to fire off the ignition system. Too much fuel (continued key depression) mixed with weak spark makes them notorious as  being extremely "cold blooded" aka hard starting. A good, strong ,fully charged battery helps considerably.

Anyway, try this and see if it starts any better.

[vonkamp]

LOL! My arms are too short as well. I was using the technique you described. When I tried again, my batteries died on me. So I am off to the store for two new ones and give it another try. Part of my issues was the fact that I was called away for work and the boat was neglected for about 3 months. I will update with results but after reading Capt. Bob's reply, I am sure this will take care of it. Thank you very much.  

[wingtime]

Capt Bob nailed it on the best cold start procedure.  Almost verbatim from the owners manual!  My understanding is the Qwick start feature advances the timing for easy starting.  It retards the timing after the engine reaches a certain temperature or the rpms exceed 1100 or 1200 rpm or after a certain amount of time.

[Capt. Bob]

 My understanding is the Qwick start feature advances the timing for easy starting.  It retards the timing after the engine reaches a certain temperature or the rpms exceed 1100 or 1200 rpm or after a certain amount of time.

That sounds good to me. My gripe with it was when the motor wasn't running perfect, as I approached the dock, it would at times stall. You scramble to re-fire to avoid humiliation and uttering the infamous "Stand by to crash" command and upon touch off, you ram it into forward or reverse while it's still idling at that higher RPM. CLUNK!!

Oh well, didn't happen often thankfully.

[vonkamp]

It's amazing what a fresh set of batteries will do. She runs great now. Thanks guys!  

[CATmech945]

I was told that the solenoid is an "enricher" for starting. I'm not sure if that's true, just what I heard. When I first got my boat, the little red bypass lever had cracked and was spitting fuel out when I'd crank to engine. I kept getting these little rainbow droplets in the water next to the port side of the engine right after starting it up, and that's where it was running down from. As soon as I replaced the lever (very easy by the way) it started much easier. I will agree though; getting these engines to crank cold takes some skill, and each one has it's own temperment. I'll give mine a little throttle, start to crank it a second and then push the key in while still cranking. VROOM! Works like a champ every time! Gets rid of the mosquitos too with the smoke.

[vonkamp]

So, still having starting issues. I believe it to be weak voltage or a battery drain. I'm troubleshooting but it may be time for new ignition coils...

Also having possible fuel problems as well. Sometimes I will get the continous alarm at the throttle which indicates a fuel obstruction. I've replaced all my fuel lines so I know I don't have a problem there. Wondering if that could be electrical as well.

[Unclebob]

Bummer. So what have you ruled out so far? Is there another thread? I was watching this thread because I had the same question when I first saw my enrichment valve, and noticed the difference it made in both positions while running. I have a '99 Johnson 200.




Just because you've replaced your fuel lines, dont rule out a fuel supply issue. I replaced everything from internal tank to fuel injector rail (including VST Tank) on my last boat project and still had fuel delivery problems. One was the pickup tube screen getting clogged. Second, was questionable anti-siphon valve (spring was corroded and wouldnt allow ball to collapse fully) and lastly, and most difficult for me to find, was a slight kink in the fuel line where it connected into my new Racor. It wasnt easily visible due to location..

But running fine on a remote tank kept me focused on fuel supply issue...Else I would have probably moved on to ignition related stuff...and spent needless money on coils..

And how do you know your solid alarm is fuel supply issue? Do you have the smart gauges?

[wingtime]

Do you have the smart guage indicator lights?  If so what light is on?  Are you sure it is not an overheat alarm?

[vonkamp]

No smartguages. there is a placard under the steering wheel listing the faults for the type of alarm. Off the top of my head, there are different sounds for overheat, low oil, water pressure, and maybe something else. I'll post a photo if I get a chance.

I am going to recheck the fuel line routing first thing. I may be chasing some electrical problem that does not exist. It would not suprise me if the root of my problems is that damned ethenol gas...

[CATmech945]

Sometimes the elbow that threads into the top of the tank for the fuel pickup has a check valve in it that gets corroded and stuck.....especially with ethanol gas. Pull the pickup tube out of the top of the tank, disconnect the line and look into the elbow and see if there is a valve there. I chased my tail awhile until if found that on mine. If there is one, and it's clogged or stuck, get a new elbow without a valve in it and just let the ball valve in the primer ball do the work for you. Worth a shot at this point. The only thing I would do with the coils is remove them, clean the ground tabs and bolt them back on. The coils rarely go bad. They are self grounding to the block so you can take them off one at a time, clean the little metal tab that wraps around the one of the bolt holes with a scothbrite pad and bolt it back on. Put a little cleaner in the wire connections as well. Then spray the engine down with WD 40. That should keep things from corroding. Where are you located?? I can check it out for you if you're somewhat close. We'll get that thing ticking like a timex again, no worries.