Clam shell...thru-hull...seacock, plumbing, etc.

[Capt. Bob]

I'll keep you in mind.  

Did someone say Karma?

PS... PM me about this Google + thing. First glance it appears I'm too old or are you just trying to phish my (-) balance bank account.

[gran398]

Gran
You doing a spray head feed in your livewell or a directional feed.?
So many choices
Capt Matt

Matt, some plumbing came with the well, but haven't looked at it yet to be honest. Most likely directional since will be KM fishing, using pogies.

Not big on having internal obstructions in the well...That's where those oval Kodiaks really shine. But wouldn't want to use a Kodiac for a seat either.

[Capt Matt]

Plan on putting the kodiac under a leaning post or just having it so its removable with a simple drain over the transom. If you hard plumb it you will need to hide the plumbing under the deck and cut a drain. Rigging it so its removable is probably the way to go if you only fish 6 times a year.
Capt Matt

[gran398]

The Kodiak's are great...

[305kingfisher1954]

Rigging M..Where can you find that livewell spigot with the shut off valve?

[seabob4]

Rigging M..Where can you find that livewell spigot with the shut off valve?

Google is your friend...http://www.cabelas.com/product/Boating/ ... t104434380

[Group W Bench]

Scott,

I will post another pic of what I am talking about later, but drawing from the picture that Aaron posted you will get the idea of what I am talking about. In order to mitigate airlock in the pump, we run the 90 degree bronze elbow directly off the clamshell pickup threads. From the bronze elbow, run the 3/4 brass threaded pipe to the ball valve. From the ball valve thread another 3/4 brass pipe nipple to the strainer and then to the pump. This reduces the vertical pull from the clamshell by several inches and eliminates problems with airlock for us. To reiterate, clamshell to 90 degree elbow to 3/4 nipple to ballvalve to nipple to strainer to pump.

Also, be sure to support the bottom of the pump when your run in this configuration in case something drops on it or someone steps on it. We use a piece of 3/4 inch starboard about 3 inches wide and use a large hole saw that matches the contour of whatever pump you are using. Cut one end of the starboard to match the contour of the pump and cut the other end of the starboard to match the 12 degree contour of the bilge snugly. Use a small dab of 5200 to keep from rattling.

If you want, I will send you a pair of the adjustable Mayfair fills that we use if you want to go that route.

Or run two pickups...

While that would certainly work, the idea behind the dual port is to eliminate the need for a second "hull penetration", as ABYC likes to call them.  And one less hole in the bottom of the boat?  Not a bad idea...

i removed my old mushroom head t-hull for the washdown and installed this setup, plumbed the washdown into the port on the pump, didnt have to drill any holes. other nice part is the open through hull would easily clog the strainer with grass within 30 minutes on the flats. so far with the new set up, 3 trips out, nothing in the strainer yet...

[Capt Matt]

I clean my strainers about every 5-7 trips . When I notice the livewell flow has slowed down its time to check them out. Amazes me how much grass that strainer can hold and still pump water thru it to my well. If I had it to do over I would have built a custom Seachest  for all my pumps
Capt Matt